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View Full Version : American gutter pipe at Home Hardware/Home Bldg supplies?


nosedive
10-08-2003, 08:36 AM
I've read elswhere on this forum that some of you have located American drain pipe at Home Hardware/Bldg Supplies. My local store disavows any knowledge of this stuff:
"Why do you need 2 1/2" drain pipe anyway?'
"Your gonna build a WHAT??"
"Hey guys, he gonna build a.... HEEHEEHEEHEE!"
I was wondering if those of you who have purchased this stuff at a Home Hardware/Bldg Supplies would have a SKU # (item number) that I can show the local store and hopefully get some on order? I don't have access to a RONA/Home Depot etc., at least not without a 5 hour drive. I want to build a Debonair and the Canadian drain pipe looks IMO too flimsy for an aircraft of that size.

Regards, Maurice

JimMoss
10-08-2003, 08:56 PM
I built one for my son using the Canadian drain pipe, and it works fine.

The only change I would make (which was suggested in another thread) would be where on the american pipe they cut the back end out on an angle, just cut out a slot for the vertical fin. :wink:

Jim Moss :)

Nuker
10-08-2003, 09:07 PM
Millworks was the place. But it was Cdn pipe

JimMoss
10-08-2003, 09:09 PM
Don't think he will find a "Millworks" in Alberta Nuker. :(

The Luptons (Owners) are local. :wink:

Jim Moss :)

nosedive
10-08-2003, 11:25 PM
Jim, did you have any problems with the CDN drain pipe on your DEB like the tail flexing? The lighter weight of the CDN pipe would be a bonus if it works well!

Maurice

JimMoss
10-08-2003, 11:30 PM
Tail does flex! :shock:

As you roll the plane ........ it takes a while for the tail to catch up! :lol:

But it still flies great! :wink:

I would just cut the slot next time though.

Jim Moss :)

nosedive
10-08-2003, 11:37 PM
Thanks Jim!

I've got the coro (old signs), spars, etc ready to go but was having a bear of a time locating the yankee gutter pipe! Now that I know the CDN stuff will work it'll save me a lot of headaches procuring the fuse pipe. Thanks for your feedback, I will post some pix when I get my Deb done! I will be sure to use the fuse slot method for mounting the vert. stab and will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks again, this SPAD stuff looks like a real blast! :wink:
Maurice

Tattoo
10-09-2003, 05:54 AM
It would also be a very good idea to back up the landing gear mount well with some light plywood. With american pipe you can actually get away with bolting the gear right to the pipe...but definately not the Canadian pipe. I've also seen guys who build Debbys from Canadian pipe simply just mount the tail on top...Saturday night Special style, works great. 8)

bootlegr
10-09-2003, 10:09 AM
When I use Can pipe I do them like the pic,If you taper them more they are very flimsy , also I put on the landing gear with dowels and rubber bands as I have found in hard landings the Can pipe WILL buckle if you bolt them on even with plywood back up plates.

bootlegr
10-09-2003, 10:11 AM
Landing gear

bootlegr
10-09-2003, 10:18 AM
Debbie tail feathers

nosedive
10-09-2003, 01:24 PM
WOW, thanks for the great pictures, John! I knew I could count on everyone here at RCC for input. That's one reason why RCC is so great!
I think I will follow your lead. The LG setup looks like a good idea- is it solid enough to use on a grass field without the gear popping off on takeoff? How many bands do you use to attach the gear?

Maurice

bootlegr
10-09-2003, 01:49 PM
I use 4 # 64 to hold them on, 64'sgood are long enough to xcross them, and make them tight. After your first landing , check to see if they have moved, if so add more elestic bands. I have used 40's 2 strokes on the Li'l debbies, and now have a 45 Saito on one, with flaperons. They really fly well,and if you take care in the wing building ,they will really penitrate well.
Good flying

voyager_663rd
10-21-2003, 04:20 PM
Nice pic on the elasticized gear.

A way I found to bolt them into the cdn pvc is not to use plywood backing.

Cut out a square of old PAINT CAN LID and bolt thru that (lid on the inside of the fuse).

You'll find the old dried paint (paint side against the bottom of the pvc) acts like a bit of a cushion and coupled with the strength of the metal itself, the gear is rock solid.

My elevator gave up the ghost before the gear pulled out on my demon (didn't like high speed dives and then pull up 3 ft from the deck). The front half of the elevator went up-where horn was attached- the back half bent back down (wind pressure) and in she went.

I had over 60 flights on that bird with no trouble from the gear using this method.

bmwkadet
10-21-2003, 05:16 PM
With the debonaire, I agree with Jim. When you build the drain pipe fuse, just leave the back square. With my first debonaire, the tail was very flimsy with the rear cutout. When that crashed :oops: , I rebuilt the fuse with no rear cutout, and added wires to the tail surfaces.

Right off of take-off, there was no control of the plane, and it crashed. I may have reversed the ailerons :oops: :oops: . Now, the second debonaire flies great!

nosedive
10-22-2003, 12:01 AM
Thanks Brandon- looks like a heckuvanidea! I tried a couple of "test" fuselages using different cut-outs and tail slots but they still seemed too weak. I will go your route on the back end!

Maurice

bmwkadet
10-22-2003, 06:05 AM
No problem! Happy flying :)

voyager_663rd
10-28-2003, 01:35 PM
another solution that i use is cut it out as they suggest, attach your tail feathers and cut a piece of piece 1/4" square and as wide as your fuse. attach it with one screw thru each end from the outside in. Solid as a rock.

Don't need a wheel at the back end either. KISS. Just an angled piece of pvc pointing down does the trick and its free too. Just need two screws to hold it on. Works like a charm.