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11-23-2015 03:26 PM
gunnerthesnowman
Re: fiber optics kill switches

Quote:
Originally Posted by zdsh13 View Post
These days we have too much money invested in an airframe to not worry about a brownout on your receiver. The nice thing about the expander board is your only limited by the amp draw on your supply batteries as the wire size is typically 12-16 gauge. I also use an ibec for the ignition which saves me not needing an ignition battery, and power the rx with two batteries. You guarantee yourself built in redundancy as long as there is an isolator switch on your expander board. Other options would be an wolverine switch or a power safe receiver if you desire redundancy.

I run smartly eq6 or eq10's as it makes setting up the flight surfaces so easy when matching elevator halves or multiple ailerons or rudder servos, I don't use the smartly optic kill as it is more expensive and you need to run the fibre optic cable through the fuse. You can easily find used smart fly boards for $150 on different forums, maybe a tad more now with the weak Can dollar.

By the time you get your 50cc ready you will be close to $1800, what is $150 extra for an expander board for the peace of mind....
Thanks for the info Zdsh13 , thats what i was thinking , i know its a bit more money , but if you sell the plane you can always take it off.
11-23-2015 09:37 AM
zdsh13
Re: fiber optics kill switches

These days we have too much money invested in an airframe to not worry about a brownout on your receiver. The nice thing about the expander board is your only limited by the amp draw on your supply batteries as the wire size is typically 12-16 gauge. I also use an ibec for the ignition which saves me not needing an ignition battery, and power the rx with two batteries. You guarantee yourself built in redundancy as long as there is an isolator switch on your expander board. Other options would be an wolverine switch or a power safe receiver if you desire redundancy.

I run smartly eq6 or eq10's as it makes setting up the flight surfaces so easy when matching elevator halves or multiple ailerons or rudder servos, I don't use the smartly optic kill as it is more expensive and you need to run the fibre optic cable through the fuse. You can easily find used smart fly boards for $150 on different forums, maybe a tad more now with the weak Can dollar.

By the time you get your 50cc ready you will be close to $1800, what is $150 extra for an expander board for the peace of mind....
11-19-2015 05:37 AM
4*60
Re: fiber optics kill switches

These work

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ll_Switch.html
11-18-2015 02:29 PM
teckbot
Re: fiber optics kill switches

This is my preferred kill switch that i use on all my gas planes

http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...oducts_id=2060

Highly recommend it.
11-18-2015 10:48 AM
grizak
Re: fiber optics kill switches

Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerthesnowman View Post
Thanks guys for the info , and yes grizak that is the plane and i will look into the ultra ibec , is having a over powered size engine a problem and if i had to run a 3 bladed prop because of ground clearance, is that bad , do the three blade not work as good as a 2 bladed prop , sorry for the stupid ? , i could ask my son if i was,nt getting this for him for Xmass.

Thank again
Overpowering a plane is better than underpowering! Remember - you don't need to use full throttle. The problem with a larger engine is usually weight, airframe stress, and ground clearance.

With this plane and the DA60 - weight won't be a problem.

This airframe is solid enough to handle the DA60 - just reinforce the firewall area (hardwood triangle stock where the firewall meets the rest of the fuse).

Ground clearance will be an issue. Assuming the plane hasn't changed in design - It was difficult to run anything larger than a 22" prop on this plane, as the gear would flex a bit on landing and you could end up breaking the prop on a landing that was a little less than perfect.

The DA60 really needs a 2-blade 23x8 through 24x8 size prop to load it properly (we have customers running 24x10s and even 25x8s on DA60s with great results). You could use a 22x12 (A 22x10 is a bit small in our experience) - that may provide enough load, but will also result in faster flight speeds at lower throttle levels. This plane slows down very well on landings, so the 22x12 may be OK.

If you use too small of a prop on an engine, you run the risk of over revving the engine. These engines are generally rated for around 9000-10000 RPM max. Anything over that can cause damage. Also, with a smaller prop you will have a hard time getting a good low idle.

A 3-blade may be a good alternative, they have their pros and cons. Firstly, they are more expensive and can be hard to find. (Falcon has a nice 22x10 wood 3-blade that would be a good match for this engine - you can find it here: http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...oducts_id=2003
3-blades are not as efficient as 2-blades, so you won't get as much top end speed or pull out of a comparable 3-blade. 3-blades are very quiet compared to 2-blades, and they usually offer a really nice transition and good braking (slowing the plane down) on downlines and for landing.

Hope this helps

Grizak
11-18-2015 07:18 AM
gunnerthesnowman
Re: fiber optics kill switches

Thanks guys for the info , and yes grizak that is the plane and i will look into the ultra ibec , is having a over powered size engine a problem and if i had to run a 3 bladed prop because of ground clearance, is that bad , do the three blade not work as good as a 2 bladed prop , sorry for the stupid ? , i could ask my son if i was,nt getting this for him for Xmass.

Thank again
11-17-2015 12:41 PM
grizak
Re: fiber optics kill switches

There are a few things you may want to consider:

-We generally feel (and recommend) that you don't need a "Power Board" type device for airplanes 50cc/60cc or smaller. There are special cases where some 50cc/60cc size airplanes may require a "Power Board" - for example: certain biplanes with extra servos, warbirds with flaps, retracts, gear doors, etc can be the exception.

-You have mostly BRUSHLESS Servos (BLS 451) in this plane. These servos will draw less current than a standard digital brushed servo. This means that your current requirements are overall less than a typical 50cc size airplane setup. Because of this, you shouldn't have to worry much about supplying the servos with enough current or creating a voltage drop situation at the receiver with a standard 2 battery 2 switch setup (I.e. no "Power Board").

-If this is the airplane that you are referring to: http://www.greatplanes.com/discontinued/gpma1411.html
This is an older design that would be considered a slightly smaller plane in the 50cc/60cc class, and it would also be considered a little heavy by today's standard. (This isn't necessarily a bad thing - I personally owned this plane for a few years, and it was a very nice flying plane. It also is well built). Because of this, I wouldn't want to add the extra weight of larger 13.3v Life packs (4 cell packs!) and the "Power Board". A simple 2 battery, 2 switch setup would work well.

I would opt for an ULTRA IBEC - you can find it here: http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.p...oducts_id=1035
This would eliminate the extra weight of the ignition battery and switch.

On this particular plane you'll probably use about 400-450mah per flight with an IBEC installed. If you run QTY 2 - 2500Mah A123s, you should be able to get around 7 or so flights without having to worry about recharging.

If you decide to get a "Power Board" you can't go wrong with a Smart-Fly or PowerBox Systems product. They have excellent track records and many different options available.

Make sure you check out the landing gear area of this plane - the version I had needed reinforcement (they may have changed the design since).

Also - the DA60 will be an insane amount of power on this plane. You may need to go with a 3-blade prop, as I could barely get a 22" prop on this plane because of the ground clearance.

Good luck

Grizak
11-17-2015 11:57 AM
gunnerthesnowman
Re: fiber optics kill switches

Quote:
Originally Posted by bhughes View Post
The regulated one is just another point of failure. If the regulator in the board fails then your servos and ign will be over amped. I've never thought about it much but I'm sure more volts doesn't mean lasting longer. A 2300 mah pack is still 2300mah wether it's 6.6 or 8.4volts. I havnt looked at red wings prices lately but smart fly have some boards as well that you might not have to order because great hobbies and pro-rc carry smart fly products. I would just run regular 6.6v life packs 2300 mah good for 4-5 flights
Ok, that sound good , go with no regulator .


Quote:
Originally Posted by bhughes View Post
If you look in the arf section of the forums there is a lot of assemble threads that would also give you an idea of how people setup their planes as well if you havnt read through them
No i have not looked there , but now i will , just trying to do what best so i do not have to do it twice ( $$$$ )
11-17-2015 10:07 AM
bhughes
Re: fiber optics kill switches

If you look in the arf section of the forums there is a lot of assemble threads that would also give you an idea of how people setup their planes as well if you havnt read through them
11-17-2015 08:57 AM
bhughes
Re: fiber optics kill switches

The regulated one is just another point of failure. If the regulator in the board fails then your servos and ign will be over amped. I've never thought about it much but I'm sure more volts doesn't mean lasting longer. A 2300 mah pack is still 2300mah wether it's 6.6 or 8.4volts. I havnt looked at red wings prices lately but smart fly have some boards as well that you might not have to order because great hobbies and pro-rc carry smart fly products. I would just run regular 6.6v life packs 2300 mah good for 4-5 flights
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