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Thread: First kit - building wisdom sought Reply to Thread
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08-27-2014 12:37 PM
davidmc36
Re: First kit - building wisdom sought

I figured that would be my next light purchase, one of those big articulated magnifiers.
08-27-2014 09:22 AM
grosbeak
Re: First kit - building wisdom sought

DW has a magnifier lamp that's not currently in use... could install that.
08-26-2014 09:42 AM
davidmc36
Re: First kit - building wisdom sought

That lamp is a great idea. I have one of these:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...oL._SY300_.jpg
08-26-2014 09:38 AM
machzx
Re: First kit - building wisdom sought

If you are over forty you can't have enough lighting!!
I have a flexy neck lamp I have over my bench do I can move sound to where I am looking
Fire the base into wall or ceiling directly over bench
08-26-2014 07:24 AM
grosbeak
Re: First kit - building wisdom sought

More great tips - thank you.
08-25-2014 08:33 PM
davidmc36
Re: First kit - building wisdom sought

Speaking of hinges, if you do need to do the hinge setup on control surfaces, I wish I had bought one of these 25 years ago instead of like 5 years ago. Makes a nasty chore an absolute breeze.

http://www.rcplanet.com/Dubro_Kwik_H...r_p/dub216.htm
08-25-2014 07:59 PM
michaely
Re: First kit - building wisdom sought

Maybe I'm an old cranky builder but I'm with Gordon and Todd on recommending making a couple of good building boards..... I winched when I saw this line on the apparently "no building board or pins required" instructions: "To prevent the doubler from shifting position, you can staple the parts together."

I think if your bench surface is 60" or more long and flat where your building board will lie, you can use even a 'bendy' particle board; if you don't have such a long, flat surface then you need to make a flat building board, such as with a torsion box or recycling something like a 16" wide by ? closet folding louvre (sp?) door section, which are lightweight and usually quit flat (but check for flatness).

From decades ago I bought a couple of 4x8 panels of what I think were called tentest from building supply; almost 1/2" thick and takes pins great; look for sound deadening sheets at a big box store (take a test pin with you)

Google "r/c airplane wing (and fuselage) building jigs"... some good shopmade jig ideas, along with the no longer in production Ajust-A-Jig.

Pins... I have some T-pins but they tend to be thick and pricy; go to a fabric store; they have thin, plastic ball topped pins that are thin, come in different sizes and, because of a much great market, are cheap.

A number 9 Xacto knife to form the hinge cutouts, as shown in the instructions, will likely be frustrating. Xacto has a "scoop" type blade that you can use to enlarge the thickness of the hinge cavity, after you make an initial thin cut with an #9 (or perhaps with the Dremel you have); one or two thickness of pieces of hack saw blades can also enlarge the initial knife cut.

A number 9 Xacto blade is pretty thick; there are thinner blades and other blade holders that you would likely appreciate for tasks such as cutting covering material; I suspect you do some woodworking (saw a block plane in one of your workshop pictures) so you probably know about the importance of frequent sharpening of blades.

A 18 or more teeth per inch Japanese dozuki saw - sometimes available in a big box store; otherwise at Lee Valley, is superior to the Zona saws of decades ago and will supplement the bandsaw.

Two more swipes at the kit instructions (smiley).... I'd check that the constructed fuselage was constructed straight; there was no use of small (2" and 3" machinest squares; cheap at Busy Bee) in the instructions to ensure the critical cabin fuse formers and fuse sides are square to each other; not sure how the instructions ensure the rear fuse sides are square to the narrowing rear fuse formers.
And, petty issue I know, please don't use a spring loaded tape reel to get a dead on accurate measure of wing tip to tail symmetry; there is play in the anchoring tip of these tape reels.

Get a lot more fluorescent lighting in the workshop; there shouldn't be shadows when you are trying to determine if you are cutting on the marked line or to the side of it.
And, problem with 98% of us, you need more workshop room (smiley)

good luck,

Michael
08-25-2014 01:13 PM
grosbeak
Re: First kit - building wisdom sought

Quote:
Originally Posted by mogman View Post
depends, a lot of AMR kits provide a wing jig to construct the wing...no pinning req'd.
I've heard the same - and the website mentions wing jig for this model.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trumpetman View Post
I think the AMR kits have you build the wing in a jig but if the jig is sitting on a crooked table....
Point taken. I'll be sure to check the build table for flatness.
08-25-2014 12:25 PM
Trumpetman
Re: First kit - building wisdom sought

I think the AMR kits have you build the wing in a jig but if the jig is sitting on a crooked table....
08-25-2014 11:48 AM
mogman
Re: First kit - building wisdom sought

Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEVPRO View Post
You will have to pin the ribs and spars to your flat board to get a true wing.
depends, a lot of AMR kits provide a wing jig to construct the wing...no pinning req'd.
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