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08-15-2010 07:18 PM
dgaumond good question

normaly the capacity is take between 4.2V to 2.75 at +- 0.5C discharge & charge

and manufacture tell at is distributor than it can sell it at +- 10% more and more

and for C rating HA HA HA 50C if you can discharge 5000mah at 250A in 1.2 minute and if you realy need it i think your esc is very bad or the firmware in it

when i cut in current on my esc i see that i have more punch because the capacitor have more time to recharge and pack run at more volt and less heat to motor
07-26-2010 09:13 AM
Stalker
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellis420 View Post
They get hot discharging..

im no electrical engineer, but i know a little.. and that electrical systems are never fully efficient.

for example, the ampers coming out of the charger at the banana plugs should in theory be higher than where the ends of the wire is inside the battery. plus, 20 amps sounds like alot for a 14 gauge charge lead to handle efficently.

i do some car audio, the amplifier for my subs needs a 0 gauge wire, smaller wire would restrict the power flow, and volt drops to an amp is a good way to fry it. same idea applys for esc to motor, if you use too small of a wire, it will melt and prior to that, the motor wont recieve the power it needs.

got a little off course i think
That's why I have 10 awg wire on my charge leads

Reality though is that 14 awg should handle 20 amps, the wiring in cars that goes to 10 amp stuff is often 22 awg and 15 amps are usually 18 ish. Would I trust it charging a LiPo though... not a chance! 12 awg minimun!

True nothing is 100% efficient, and LiPo's don't heat up as much because they can handle more current than a NiMH can, but still they do loose a bit of power during charge/discharge. The higher the C rating the less that loss will be I feel. That's one of the reasons for the higher C rating is a better transfer of electrons between the 2 materials.

I used to do A LOT of car audio stuff... only amps back then that needed 0 awg were like the Tarantula's and bridged US Amps 2000's. What amp are you running?

That's even more off course
07-23-2010 02:42 PM
imported_Ellis420
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stalker View Post
I don't think that there is much power loss in charging the batteries (that's why they don't get hot) but definitely the efficency ratings come into play with the chargers and power supplies. I believe though that when you see the output on the screen that is what is actually going into the batteries.

Definitely with older NiMH's and NiCAD's you had a power loss at the battery itself which you could easily tell by how hot the batteries got. I've never yet had a LiPo even get over room temperature and I charge mine @ 20 amps...
They get hot discharging..

im no electrical engineer, but i know a little.. and that electrical systems are never fully efficient.

for example, the ampers coming out of the charger at the banana plugs should in theory be higher than where the ends of the wire is inside the battery. plus, 20 amps sounds like alot for a 14 gauge charge lead to handle efficently.

i do some car audio, the amplifier for my subs needs a 0 gauge wire, smaller wire would restrict the power flow, and volt drops to an amp is a good way to fry it. same idea applys for esc to motor, if you use too small of a wire, it will melt and prior to that, the motor wont recieve the power it needs.

got a little off course i think
07-07-2010 08:48 AM
Stalker
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellis420 View Post

charging batteries isnt 100% efficent though, is it?? say if i put 5000mah back in, maybe 5% dissipated or was lost in transfer?
I don't think that there is much power loss in charging the batteries (that's why they don't get hot) but definitely the efficency ratings come into play with the chargers and power supplies. I believe though that when you see the output on the screen that is what is actually going into the batteries.

Definitely with older NiMH's and NiCAD's you had a power loss at the battery itself which you could easily tell by how hot the batteries got. I've never yet had a LiPo even get over room temperature and I charge mine @ 20 amps...
07-06-2010 04:13 PM
Michael_Lambert I belieave 3V is the lowest you should go. MOst Chargers will give a Voltage error if its lower.

I find with my LVC set to 3.2 i typically will put back in about 4980 into my 5000 packs.
07-06-2010 02:51 PM
imported_Ellis420
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stalker View Post
I don't know if there is a standard or not but I find that with my LVC set @ 3.2 or 3.3v per cell ( I forget what exactly) I generally get within 1 - 2% of the capacity if it has cut off. ie my 5000's generally take about 5020 - 5040 mah to fully charge/balance them.

An industry standard would definitely be a good thing I think... maybe one day that will happen...
my 5000mah 20c 2s packs suck up just about 4800-5000mah, more if balancing.

charging batteries isnt 100% efficent though, is it?? say if i put 5000mah back in, maybe 5% dissipated or was lost in transfer?

i know lipos are constant voltage compaired to traditional batteries that lose voltage. i dont know if that is the right way to word it, but once a lipo is almost discharged, the volts will drop quickly at the end, compaired to a steady slope of loss of capacity and voltage.
07-06-2010 02:36 PM
Stalker I don't know if there is a standard or not but I find that with my LVC set @ 3.2 or 3.3v per cell ( I forget what exactly) I generally get within 1 - 2% of the capacity if it has cut off. ie my 5000's generally take about 5020 - 5040 mah to fully charge/balance them.

An industry standard would definitely be a good thing I think... maybe one day that will happen...
07-06-2010 01:10 PM
Narly1
LiPo Capacity Question

This thread got me thinking:

http://www.offroadrc.ca/showthread.php?t=36380

I suppose I could make a partial conclusion by observing my own packs, but my question is this:

If a LiPo manufacturer states that their pack is rated at "X" mAH capacity, what cell voltage range is this capacity over?

4.2 V (ie full charge) to 3.3 volts?

4.2 to 3.0 volts?

or 4.2 to 0 volts (fully discharged)?

Is there an industry standard for this rating???

Thanks,

Narly1


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