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03-07-2015 09:27 PM
mrrandyman
Re: Life batterie

This is my second Pawnee and it flew great powered by a Glow engine.
They required having the Nimh 4.6oz battery placed in the tail of the aircraft to obtain the proper CG.
On this one I decided to change things up and install a gas engine and use a Life Battery 3.4oz
Glow fuel is hard to come by here.

Being it is a Life battery I did not want to put it in the tail of the aircraft and have to run 24 inch extensions to the front of the plane.

Any additional weight I have to add will be in the tail in a small box filled with lead.
I'll post some pics.

I generally beef up all the ARF's I purchase because most of them are just slapped together as cheaply as possible. Of all my planes this it one of the best for my flying style.

Thank you for your input. I am constantly trying to improve what I build but it's only by posting pictures and getting input that really helps.

I also want to make it easy for the next person that wants to put one of these planes together without having to hunt all over the place for answers.

I don't want to take this thread too far off of the main topic so what I will do is post a complete assembly thread in the ARF Section once I get all the bugs worked out.
03-07-2015 05:37 PM
Eye Can Fly
Re: Life batterie

Last summer I lost a plane in flight to a single switch failure. That switch only ran the servos on a 6 servo 30% set-up (ignition was on it's own switch and battery). I would check out a few more things before committing to any set-up.

How close is the plane to the manufacturers suggested flying weight? Can the planes CG be obtained with the battery where you have it placed?

If your plane is lighter than the published weight by more than the weight of another battery I'd add a redundant power system. Battery placement is usually the final thing to do when setting up a plane, much better to move it to where its needed than adding dead weight. I learned the lesson to the tune of about 1000 buck! Loss of airframe, 2 piled up batteries, a ruined Rx, wrecked fuel tank, a few dorked 222oz MG servos, it adds up.....
03-07-2015 05:08 PM
Dale Hunter
Re: Life batterie

Great Randy.
-Dale-



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03-07-2015 04:04 PM
mrrandyman
Re: Life batterie

Ok thanks Dale that is what I'll do. I will post a pic of the results.
I figured that was what you were getting at but wanted to make sure.

Randy
03-07-2015 03:56 PM
Dale Hunter
Re: Life batterie

Randy, simply duplicate the switch you have. This is not a large (draw), or complicated airframe.
It will work (probably forever) the way you have it done. I was simply pointing out the weakest link.
All good. Enjoy your hobby.
-Dale-



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03-07-2015 03:13 PM
mrrandyman
Re: Life batterie

Hi Dennis,
I do not have an opti kill switch. I opted to go with the Ultra as this allows me to use 1 battery to run everything thus saving me some weight issues of the extra battery and having to add an extra switch for the ignition.

I can control the Ultra Voltage output to the Ignition anywhere from 5V to 6.6V with jumpers.

Having said all that it seems that going to life batteries is doing nothing but adding more complications to what should be a simple operation.

The switch is an MPI 3470 and is advertised as a heavy duty switch.
I assumed it would be good for my application but I'm not going to take any chances. You folks know what your talking about.

I'll have to look around as I do not see the JR switch available.
Is there any other option for switches?

Thank you,
Randy
03-07-2015 04:12 AM
4*60
Re: Life batterie

Not familiar with Spektrum packs. That looks small for life 2200 but maybe the model is larger than I realize. Anyway I concur about the switch. That looks like a regular light switch and they aren't that great in my opinion. Get heavy duty JR type switches, with LED indicators and built in charging plugs, They have proven to be really dependable around here (famous last words). I would change the eflite ec3 or ec2 to jst red and use that for your main connection and perhaps use both leads from the battery and 2 switches.
I have to admit I don't fly anything like that but have seen many that do and I feel I do have an idea of what works. We have used 1800-2500 life packs for both flight pack and onboard glow or ignition source concurrently and it has worked.
If you really want heavy duty packs you can get the cylindrical cell 2 cell packs A123 2300mah packs still from ebay and other sources for about $30 US


Is that an antenna sticking out by a servo ?? I would raise the antenna/receivers to as high a postion as you can and as far away from electronics as you can.


I assume you have an opto kill switch on the ignition. Your ignition seems to indicate up to 8.4, If so why would you need an ultra IBEC??
The above comment from a non gas type guy!!
03-06-2015 05:44 PM
Dale Hunter
Re: Life batterie

http://www.hangtimes.com/parallel_packs.html

Here you go Randy. Specific to my suggestions.

But a great reference to so many battery, distribution questions. Add to your favorites.

http://www.hangtimes.com/redsbatteryclinic.html

-Dale-
(enjoy your week-end homework)







.



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03-06-2015 05:40 PM
Dale Hunter
Re: Life batterie

Randy, if nothing else a redundant switch set-up would be strongly suggested. As a switch fails, it fails open. Same with a loose connection. All your flight load is travelling through the single J.R. connector on the battery/switch.
Simply add an identical switch. And take the second source from the other power lead on the battery. Simplest is solder a Deans connector on the second switch.

Note Li Fe batteries are very comfortable delivering 20C with very little voltage drop. So a 40+ amp load will still be near full pack voltage. Just a point of interest. Let's say a test to those that do, or don't understand battery chemistry to the point of internal resistance.
Let me find a nice link to help with the redundant switches.

-Dale-



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03-06-2015 05:33 PM
mrrandyman
Re: Life batterie

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dale Hunter View Post
Good advice. I thought I would have gotten chewed up if I have suggested much the same.
Add:
The weakest link I see is the single switch. And the J.R. type connection that you are using. Rated at only 3amp.

Li Fe batteries are typically consumed to 50% level on a consistent basis (or less). I would expect once you build your confidence up to that level you will be getting 6 flights between charges.
Hope this helps.
There will be many other opinions.
-Dale-
Add:
The weakest link I see is the single switch. And the J.R. type connection that you are using. Rated at only 3amp.

Hi Dale, So I'm not sure what your here. Is it the switch that is too small for the power consumption or a combination of something else?

From what I read I did not require an extra switch or am I wrong? It's no big deal to add the extra switch but I though it was not required?

Since I decided to go to gas I am finding Gas a whole new ball game.

Thank you Todd and Dale for your input it is invaluable.
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