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12-04-2014 07:32 PM
Breaker
Re: How To: Fix a broken heatsink from your esc (or add)

You while have problem if it dry out to much and you want to remove it to change IC while it is cold I use the same amount of paste that you put on one IC on my CPU. Other than that you are ok it is ceramic so non conducti but watch for the silver one she is conductiv.
03-23-2013 10:11 AM
RCRick
Re: How To: Fix a broken heatsink from your esc (or add)

Quote:
Originally Posted by insomniac View Post
Nice job. I think you have enough thermal paste to share with the rest of us here. LOL Is there a shelf life on the paste?
Not sure about shelf life. Its 2 part so it shouldn't harden but drying out could be the issue.

Yea, I don't foresee myself using it again... well, anytime soon

Quote:
Originally Posted by spog View Post
I missed that in the photo, sorry.
My bad, I should have wrote it. Its certainly the one you need to get.

I did finish waterproofing it last night. The esc heatsink did cure very fast.
03-23-2013 08:24 AM
spog
Re: How To: Fix a broken heatsink from your esc (or add)

Quote:
I should have said it was Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive (premium ceramic thermal adhesive) but it was in the photo here
I missed that in the photo, sorry.
03-23-2013 08:07 AM
insomniac
Re: How To: Fix a broken heatsink from your esc (or add)

Nice job. I think you have enough thermal paste to share with the rest of us here. LOL Is there a shelf life on the paste?
03-23-2013 08:00 AM
RCRick
Re: How To: Fix a broken heatsink from your esc (or add)

Quote:
Originally Posted by spog View Post
Nice guide Rick

This stuff is used a lot for PC components. Here is a good Canadian source.

http://www.ncix.com/products/?minorcatid=1220

One note. Rick you applied the adhesive a little thick and it came into contact with the pins of the chips. Although the arctic silver is not conductive, it is capacitive and should not contact the chip leads. Be sure to read the instructions since some adhesives may be outright conductive, I would avoid those for this application.
I recommend arctic alumina for this application since it is neither conductive nor capacitive so you don't have to worry about contact with electrical components

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a...l_adhesive.htm
In term of amount, it was maybe a little less than axial had applied. Same fashion including over the leads just I had applied way less.

I should have said it was Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive (premium ceramic thermal adhesive) but it was in the photo here. According to the other side of the instructions it is a pure electrical insulator and not conductive of capacitive.

03-23-2013 06:45 AM
spog
Re: How To: Fix a broken heatsink from your esc (or add)

Nice guide Rick
Quote:
The biggest problem is figuring out who has thermal paste in epoxy.
This stuff is used a lot for PC components. Here is a good Canadian source.

http://www.ncix.com/products/?minorcatid=1220

One note. Rick you applied the adhesive a little thick and it came into contact with the pins of the chips. Although the arctic silver is not conductive, it is capacitive and should not contact the chip leads. Be sure to read the instructions since some adhesives may be outright conductive, I would avoid those for this application.
I recommend arctic alumina for this application since it is neither conductive nor capacitive so you don't have to worry about contact with electrical components

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_a...l_adhesive.htm
03-22-2013 09:29 PM
RCRick
How To: Fix a broken heatsink from your esc (or add)

The main issue here is that I rushed to show a RCC member a shot of this particular Axial esc and as I removed it from its case the esc heat sink came off. This was bad but not the end of the world, just an inconvenience.

The biggest problem is figuring out who has thermal paste in epoxy. I hit up the LHS and no luck so I turned to online. 3 days later and $13.68 total Arctic Silver 5g arrived to my door.

So, here is a quick how to on how to reapply a snapped off heat sink.

Tools (some optional):
Dremel w. accessories
Modeler Knife

Materials:
Rubbing Alcohol
Arctic Silver thermal adhesive (instructions here)

This is the shot that got me into all the trouble. During a discussion on waterproofing the ESC we got to chatting about the gap between the heat sink and the chip board.
[IMG]cdn.---------inc.com/rcc/how-to/heat-sink-repair/rc-heatsink-how-to-fix-000.jpg[/IMG]

This was the end result of snapping the heat sink off. The left over adhessive from the factory install needs to be cleaned off carefully.
[IMG]cdn.---------inc.com/rcc/how-to/heat-sink-repair/rc-heatsink-how-to-fix-001.jpg[/IMG]

Using a modelling knife and taking my time and not applying to much pressure i removed the majority of the old thermal adhesive.


After I had removed the majority of high spots without gouging the heat sink I pulled out the dremel with 2 bits


The stone bit too the majority off but you need to be light on the pressure applied or you will eat away at the heat sink. I finished off with a semi coarse brush bit.


Onto the chip board. You DO NOT want to damage the board or chips. You can mess up the heat sink a bit but not the chip set
Minimal pressure applied to take off some of the left over old thermal adhesive.


Time to open up the Arctic Silver 5g thermal Adhesive.


Read the instructions!!! The way it is packaged its easy to think it doesnt come with any. Anyhow, here they are just incase


Using rubbing alcohol clean the heat sink and chip set. Use a cloth.






Pre-fit your heat sink. Make sure you are comfortable with how it needs to go back on.


Mix some equal parts of Arctic Silver 5g on some scrap poly


Apply to the chipset. Not too much. This stuff is a bit runny so that is a down side.




No clamps??? Lipo battery it is to place on top to press the heat sink down.
1 hour till it should be cured.




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