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| Engines Discuss engines |
Topic Review (Newest First)
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| 08-01-2012 08:31 PM | |
| John M. |
Re: Very sensible OS engines +1 all of the above. Wonder if sealing the engine in an impervious bag with silica gel would help? Dehydrator plugs and plugging all openings does wonders for full scale engines. |
| 08-01-2012 07:29 PM | |
| fsone |
Re: Very sensible OS engines I have been running morgan cool power for 10 years now,synthetic in 2 O.S 1.60s a .46AX .61 FX never had an issue with these engines.After each run i use marvel mystery oil in the engines.I have a bulb bottle i squeeze the oil in the carbs turn over the engine several times.Also my planes and engines kept in my workshop in the house.In the winter i run engines dry and load them up with the mystery oil.I quit using castor over the years it builds up then you have to tearThe engine down to clean it.Ten years ago started using synthetic never looked back the engines inside are clean. |
| 06-28-2012 09:52 PM | |
| valhalla |
Re: Very sensible OS engines Best product I've ever used for protecting bearings is www.corrosionx.com |
| 06-28-2012 08:49 AM | |
| JohnM |
Re: Very sensible OS engines Jean: Like Dan F., I have never had to change bearings as well. The O.S. .55 AX that I am using at the moment has almost 500 flights on it. I use 15% Omega and do not use after run oil. At the end of the season, I fill my engine with either Air Tool oil or Reslone and I always, whether storing in a box or left on my plane, store so that my engine is in a vertical position. (prop bolt facing the floor). . . this allows the oil to stay in the bearings during storage. I also make sure that the carb and muffler outlets are sealed tight. (I stuff paper in them). . . I have cleaned my .55 thoroughly twice during its life time. The latest being in May, 2012. I was very pleased with how the inside looked when I took it apart for cleaning. Cheers - |
| 06-21-2012 01:08 AM | |
| MikeCam |
Re: Very sensible OS engines If your running an all synthetic fuel then that's your problem. I run Omega 10% with the small amount of caster in it and I don't use ARO. I just really spin the engines after defueling with igniter attached to make sure ALL fuel is gone. Have never had to change bearings. |
| 06-18-2012 01:10 PM | |
| Flyinbullmax |
Re: Very sensible OS engines Hi guys, no its in my workshop downstairs, even have the air exchanger in that room... |
| 06-17-2012 09:06 AM | |
| williame3590 |
Re: Very sensible OS engines The other issue Jean is where do you store your models in the winter? It sounds like it could be a very damp place. Bill |
| 06-17-2012 07:10 AM | |
| Cougar429 |
Re: Very sensible OS engines Where are you buying your bearings? The cheaper Pac Rim options usually don't last beyond one season. Good quality Boca stand up much better and are also dimensionally "Tighter", ie. they hold tolerances better. The much more expensive Stainless bearings eliminate that problem completely, but other metal components within the motor still suffer. In fact, if the crank is extremely corroded the crap that flashes off when fired up can impinge on any bearing material and destroy it, (ever wonder why abrasive sheets are coated with "Oxide" layers?). Frankly, unless you are into full race hot running I would not push the most exotic ceramic bearing option. I've found even the slightest mistep in handling and installation when cold can damage the bearing and this will immediately become apparent when running, (our 100K plus air tools grenade within minutes in that instance) I use a couple of tricks to prolong the life of my bearings and engine internals: First is to try and run the motor out of fuel by pinching or pulling off the carb feed line. Not 100% effective as some fuel will remain and the nitro combines with moisture to IMMEDIATELY go after ferrous metals within the case. I use a good quality after run oil at the end of EVERY flying session. I make my own from a 50/50 mix of ATF and Air Tool oil, (basically turbine oil). In this last batch I added a small amount of metal conditioner to the mix to add film strength, (not really necessary, but I like to see if and how this can improve an already good combi). I also collect a lot of rubber caps from defunct tool containers at work and use a pair to cap each engines carb and exhaust outlet before hauling them home at the end of the day. This reduces the opening that moisture and/or dirt can enter the motor. Temp changes during transport or storage can cause the motor to "breathe" and now the easiest path is through the front bearing, but this is much less than an open carb and exhaust port. This practice has stood me well for a long time and engines taken from storage or fired up even decades after removal from service frequently require nothing more than cleaning up the fuel system components, (carb O-rings, etc.). My only problem is currently it is almost impossible to follow my own rules. The larger, fully cowled 4-strokes are inaccessible to the cap routine, but perhaps due to there being no direct raw fuel path through the case corrosion is there, just seems a lot slower. |
| 06-17-2012 06:34 AM | |
| Flyinbullmax |
Very sensible OS engines Let me explain my problem. I have a couple of OS .46 and a .55, wich are very good and reliable engines but the minute there is a little rust in the crank bearing, nothing works good no more. And so far since 2007 its every spring that this occurs even if I fill those little powerplants with oil in the fall and after flyin. When I change the bearings everything gets back to normal. Do you guys experience the same with your OS engines? |
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