|
|
|
| Engines Discuss engines |
Topic Review (Newest First)
|
| 01-06-2013 03:42 PM | ||
| Rellic |
Re: Saito 120 ???? I run My Sullivan Dynatron on either or 12V pack which is a single 33ah 12V. For My 24V I have two 12V 33ah wired together. These Sealed Lead Acid Batteries are from portable emergency power units. Very small- 3" x 3" x 7" and VERY HEAVY. I charged My single 12V last January and it is still turning My 180 over today after using it every week all year. Brian T. |
|
| 01-06-2013 02:58 PM | ||
| Cougar429 |
Re: Saito 120 ???? My only addition is to what others are using to juice their starters. I currently run a 2200 MAh 3S LiPo and find it covers most apps. Once tried a 4S pack, but found it pretty uncontrollable, with the tendency to jump off the large, rather round nosed spinners on the Harvard and Rare Bear, (OS 90 Surpass and Saito 125a respectively). I can only imagine what 18-24V would be like. |
|
| 01-06-2013 01:47 PM | ||
| Rellic |
Re: Saito 120 ???? Great thread and great advice on big four strokers. Big Saitos are very powerful engines and correctly tuned and propped can out-pull equal displacement two stroke gassers. The four stroke power-band is by far more efficient than two stroke giving that low throttle immediate pull ability. The disadvantage is the glo oil mess on the airframe that is basically non existent with two stroke gas until you put in a smoke system. The advantage of the smoke oil residue is the high paraffin content that adds a nice shine to your covering when smeared around with the cleaning rag. Treat the four stroke with respect as it is My experience they have a more bigger finger BITE factor than any two stroke gas or glo. Brian T. |
|
| 01-06-2013 01:28 PM | ||
| Dale Hunter |
Re: Saito 120 ???? Good advice Dave, there is good reason to follow this starting procedure. Also be cautious that the prop nut does not get "kicked" slightly loose. As a prop can be thown once running. Not a great danger, just another thing to be aware of. Hope this helps. -Dale- Quote:
100% free webcam site! | Awesome chicks and it is absolutely free! | Watch free live sex cam - easy as 1-2-3 |
|
| 01-06-2013 01:16 PM | ||
| zdsh13 |
Re: Saito 120 ???? Quote:
 I started all my large single cylinder Saitos with my Dynatron (18v Makita adapter), I usually turn the propeller over a few times by hand to see if its hydro locking with the glow heat off. If it is then turn the prop backwards to clear the cylinder of fuel. I always turn the prop back to the compression stroke before using the starter, worked great on all my larger Saito's up to my 2.20. Can they be started by hand.... yes. Will you catch your fingers more than once.... I'll let you answer that one. |
|
| 01-06-2013 05:55 AM | ||
| chuebner |
Re: Saito 120 ???? Quote:
I also use a Sullivan Dynatron to start all my glow engines from .35 up to a Saito 180. I was running it off of two 12 volt fire panel batteries hooked in series to give 24 volts, but this winter rigged it up for two 3s lipos in series and it delivers the same power with way less weight. If I am happy with this setup, I will buy a 6S lipo and dedicate it strictly for the starter. No fear using a starter, just hand spin the engine a couple times (without glow ignitor attached), then turn it backwards till it hits compression stroke, attach ignitor and hit with the starter. |
|
| 01-06-2013 05:32 AM | ||
| deerslayer |
Re: Saito 120 ???? Fly it like ya stole it! I know that others will disagree, but my experience has been: I have many 4-strokes, several of which are Saitos, including 120, 72, 56, 180. As well, I have several OS. I have had 4-strokes for perhaps 20 years now. All of my engines are treated the same, 2-stroke or 4-stroke. I use the same fuel in everything, synthetic 15% 2-stroke fuel. I happen to use Cool Power or Wildcat, whichever I get at a good price. These fuels have corrosion inhibitors in them, they coat the bearing surfaces well. I have never used after-run oil, although if I take an engine out of service to store for a long time, I will squirt something like ATF or even 3-in-1 oil into the carb and flip it over a few times, then put it into a ziploc bag. My planes either hang from the nose or sit horizontally on a rack, sometimes inside the house and frequently out in the unheated garage. I NEVER hang a plane nose down - if you do so, any gunk (exhaust debris, etc.) will go into the front bearing area and cause trouble over time. Sometimes, I have had a plane sit around for 1, 2 or even 3 years, hauled it out and had it start immediately. At first, there may be some dark crud spew out the exhaust but that clears out within a few seconds. Had the engine been stored nose down in a plane, that crap would have been firmly packed around the front bearing! I rarely ever change a glow plug on either 2-stroke or 4-stroke engines. (Most times, I find a problem to be other than plug-related and stick the old one back in.) I have never had a 4-stroke engine fail using these principles, I have only ever replaced bearings in engine(s) I picked up at an auction or such that had been run on castor and had seized carb, solidified bearings, etc. - yecch! Sometimes, I had to boil the engine in water for 1/2 hour or so to free up things - so much for the great castor oil! An engine is designed to properly transfer heat when it is relatively clean, not when it has an insulating coating of burnt stuff covering the fins and grinding the bearings. Occasionally, I have taken the backplate off an engine, just to have a peek inside. If it was one which I had owned from new, I would find the crankshaft to be shiny, the little pool of oil in the bottom of the crankcase clean, and it all looked like new. In contrast, on engines that I have acquired that were run with castor (and that I know had been routinely treated to "after run oil"), I have found to have corrosion and pits on the crank counterweight and dark sludge inside the crankcase. Which would you prefer? As for that old saw about wrecking an engine with a "lean run" and no castor, well, I think I may have had a so-called "lean run" on occasion, although I don't try to tweak an engine to ultimate performance, and yet they survive. My son as some of those extremely high performance JETT engines, which are certainly tweaked to the the max, and he uses the same fuel and operating philosophy without problems. As for the percentage of oil, or anything else about our fuel - who the hell knows what is really in there? Even the term "synthetic" is more a marketing definition than a solidly defined standard of some sort (there are whole Forums on this whole subject, especially out there in the land of motorcyclists, where oil selection is a religious topic). BTW, so-called "dino" oil is not made from dead dinosaurs, and at some level all motor oil is "synthetic", as it was produced via a very complex "cracking" process. Pick a name brand that others report as being good and use it. As the EPA likes to say, "Your mileage may vary", but this has been my experience. You should enjoy your new engine, and it should treat you well for many years to come. Keeping it out of the trees and rocks should be a lot higher on the list of concerns than what fuel and oil you choose. Good luck! |
|
| 01-06-2013 01:17 AM | ||
| Rellic |
Re: Saito 120 ???? All good Kevin. I use a Dynatron electric 12/24 Volt starter. I think thats what its called, it's out in the truck right now awaiting to crank over My 180 Saito tomorrow. I use this starter on 12V for all My four strokes and hand prop My gas MMVS & DA's. On 12V I have to prime My 180 than prop it back to compression to give the starter that ramp-up and even yesterday at -2 she started at idle. So My way on My inverted 180 is - idle trim set at run (mid trim) throttle stick wide open, finger over muffler end, spin engine till finger is wet, throttle stick back down to three clicks above bottom, hand prop back to compression, turn glo driver on, Dynatron to spinner and we have her running. If I pack My 24V starter battery out I don't have to back prop it to compression as the Dynatron will turn the 180 over with ease but that 24V pack is HEAVY. As for the lawn mower, Ha Ha Ha Ha. I'm not so think as you drunk I am. Brian T. |
|
| 01-05-2013 11:14 PM | ||
| Fly North |
Re: Saito 120 ???? I just wanted to thank everyone for all the great tips on oiling ,adjusting and starting these motors  . I also appreciate all the history from different people on how reliable these motors have proven to be . Its a part of the hobby I never thought I would get into but I am glad I have started down this path or I think I would have missed a big part of the experiance of flying RC. As I said at the start of this thread it will be a while before I am ready to use these engines. I will keep watching and learning and seeking out people with experiance to help me become ready to fly with them and with all the help and info I have recieved here I don`t think that will be a problem . Right now I still need to get better at just flying with my smaller electrics and I have a few kits to finish for spring . Thanks Kevin
|
|
| 01-05-2013 11:01 PM | ||
| Cougar429 |
Re: Saito 120 ???? I find it hard to see the reluctance for electric starters. I've been using them on my 2 and 4-strokes for nearly 30 years and have NEVER caused an internal issue. On 4-strokes I now max out at the 125a and do find it a bit of a bear, especially in cold weather when the onboard LiPo suffers. In that case hand flipping is the only option and I have had equal success with forward and backwards flipping. I do take the precaution of a heavy leather glove and also a "Chicken Stick". You can easily make one of those out of a piece of heater hose slid onto an appropriately sized wooden dowel. Having said that, I reiterate my earlier recommendation to hand flip the prop on any engine before hitting it with the starter. This will tell you if there is any condition such as hydrolock, that can subsequently be magnified with the electric starter. One addition is that having the proper cone in the starter makes a huge difference since a good fit transfers torque without trying to shove the motor out the back of the plane. p.s. I also find all of my Saitos will not start with the throttle set to idle. They can be dropped down once fired up, but opening the throttle to at least 10% till running is required. None have chokes or they have been removed. |
|
| This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread. | ||
Your Privacy Choices