Unionville Norseman Build - Check back on this Post
 

OK Folks,

I'm starting a build thread for the 85" Unionville Norseman.

I am going to model it after the full size version which is on display in Red Lake, Ontario (CF-DRD).

I intend to build as close to scale as possible. I am primarily land based, so my model will be purpose built to be easily converted back and forth between floats, wheels and skiis...just like the full size.

Power will be a Saito 82a 4 stroke. The model will have 4 wing servos to control ailerons and flaps. Floats are scratchbuilt from MR Aerodesign plans.

This "kit" isn't exactly a newbie style kit and I've had some help along the way, mostly from Darren (CF-DRG) and from Derek (DBlackadder). Their advice, pictures, and slideshow have proved an invaluable resource. I have gotten a time jump, so much of this work has been done and I can write with the advantage of hindsight for a little while.

My intent is to clarifiy some of the instructions (which are terrible), offer some tips that I've learned or been taught. I also want to offer some inspiration to those out there that are thinking of building a kit but are holding off. Trust me, if I can do it...so can you!

This kit building thing is a lot of fun. I find it as enjoyable as flying. It does take dedication and discipline however. There are a lot of steps and it would be easy to put it off and never get it done.

Feel free to offer constructive advice, compliments, whatever. I will strive to keep the thread on a clear course.

So, buckle up and enjoy the ride. Here we go!

I'm going to refer back to this post every so often and add helpful tips. That way, you learn the tips before you start your own build!

1. Mark the parts, fuselage, etc with "right" and "left" or better yet, "starboard" and "port". The orientation is simple enough when the model is upright and facing away from you but gets increasingly difficult in other positions

2. Ammonia and carpenter's glue does NOT mix. Seriously, the glue instantly balls up into little...balls. That's why the pro's use ammonia to help curve wood, but wait until it's dry to glue it.

3. Double check the control horn positions, etc, BEFORE CUTTING the elevator halves apart. You really only need to remove enough material to accomodate the tailpost and the rudder movement. I cut per plan and didn't have enough wood left to mount the Robart horn.

4. Never commit your aircraft to a display or show UNTIL it's done. Deadlines are difficult to make, especially if your work schedule is unrealistic or gets interrupted. The stress will cause you to lose hair, sleep and brownie points with the wife!

5. Install T-Nuts before gluing the part if possible. Most of the time, there isn't enough clearance afterward to do a nice job.

Fuselage Frames
 

The instructions included with the kit state to 'read through the building instructions and familiarize yourself with the plans'. They aren't kidding; but even then it's not enough. I've found myself reading the same step over and over trying to figure it out. Often, reading ahead sometimes helps me figure out what is required.

'Part of the purpose of this build thread.

I jigged up and built the 2 identical sides outlined in Steps 1 and 9. Then rejigged and built Steps 2 and 11.

Since I build with a magnetic system, I take a lot of effort to setup the jigs properly. I can then make duplicate or mirrored assemblies together or immediately after each other, hence jumping steps.

The builder must cut all the required pieces from 1/4"x1/4" balsa stock which is included in the kit, but not marked. For this step, I went through the entire supply of 1/4"x1/4" and selected the straightest and most similar density pieces for the long sections. I used the poorest pieces for the short sections that make up the shorter truss pieces. I always cut the longer pieces first; in case I make a mistake I can minimize the waste generated.

Pitfall #1: The tail post pieces are actually 1/4"x3/8", not 1/4"x1/4" like the rest of the frame. This fact is marked on the plan, but is easily missed.

The plans are taped to the steel surface and wax paper is taped over the plans. Notice that I use lengths of aluminum as straight edges to build against. The aluminum is lower profile so I am not constantly getting snagged or trying to work from directly above the table. The Aluminum also helps keep it all straight and minimizes the number of magnetic jigs I need at any one time (I only have 25).

Fuselage Sides
 

After completing the fuselage frames, I rejigged in order to align and build the fuselage sides.

The pieces come precut and are marked in the kit.

When glueing, remember that these need to be made as mirror images if viewed from the top edge.

Looking good! The Unionville kits can be a bit of a challenge all right.....here's a box full of Balsa...now make it look like a plane!

Hope to see it fly at the Dryden "Bonny Bay Float Fly" coming in Sept!

Bill

Ribs and Uprights
 

The next stage covers steps 3 to step 15.

This is when I learned (the hard way) to read ahead.

The following tasks are confusing and the instructions actually do more harm than good. At least you don't have to cut anything major in this stage you only have to hammer something....READ ON.

The 1st part of the confusion lies with the diagram accompanying step 4 which shows the locations of the nails in the wrong spots. I'm not even sure of the purpose of the diagram other than maybe to show how to align the ribs (?).

The 2nd part of the confusion lies with the plan that's taped to the building board. In Step 5, the instructions call off the rib upright as being 1/4"x5/8". That is the actual dimension of the part as well. So why is does the plan show it as 3/4"? Does a person put it toward the back of the 3/4" space on the plan or the front?

Hard to say at the time, so I guessed and placed it near the back of the space on the plan thinking the rib upright would be more structurally relevant near the spars.

I guessed wrong! Well, I guessed not-so-correctly, because in the long run, it probably doesn't matter.

So, here's the procedure: Read ahead to step 16, where it states, 'the firewall bearer spacers fit flush to the front, top and the wing rib supports'. What I should have done is laid out the location of the back of the firewall bearer spacer, drew a vertical line, and then glued the upright's front edge on the line. The rear upright doesn't seem to care where it's placed as long as it's inside the lines. I lined it up flush with the cutout for the spars.

As I did it to the back of the space, there was a 1/8" gap between the front of the rib upright, and the back of the firewall bearer spacer, which I ended up filling with scrap balsa.

The next part involves figuring out the order that the pieces get glued in.

Because I use a magnetic jig system, I align all the parts the same and glue them all at the same time. Of course, in this stage you are interested in epoxying the rib uprights to the ribs and fuse sides.

Here's the sequence: 1. Rib uprights, 2. First rib and fuse side (truss side up), 3. Three ribs aligned on 1" dowels engaged into the first rib, 4. Other fuse side (truss down) and then finally, 5. The last two rib uprights.

Shim it with scrap 1/4" pieces, sheets, etc, glue it and weight it.

Easy right? Well, what about the nails? What, nails in a model airplane? You're kidding right? NOPE! There are nails that you drive with a hammer of all things! I tossed the nails. When the epoxy had cured and the parts came off the board, I drilled pilot holes and following Darren's suggestion to use 4-#2x1" screws instead. I was going to use the screws as conductor's for navigation lights but have recently decided against it. I would suggest using #2x1/2" screws for this stage. It'll save cutting them off later.

Until later, try not to look so confused!

Firewall Bearers and Spacers
 

This portion of the build covers Step 16 to 18.

It's pretty straightforward. There is a large area being glued together so you have to be careful to be use the glue sparingly and employ a lot of weight. I lightly glue both pieces, wait a few minutes for it to soak in a bit, then touch up the thin spots before clamping the pieces together. The moisture tends to make the wood curl, thus another reason for the extra weight.

The weight in the pic is a car battery and the bucket on top is filled with the remains of the rear window from my 1986 Jaguar XJ6...don't ask. Notice the weight added to the free ends as well, just in case.

Last Two Pics
 

OK, The last step, then the brutally expensive weight...

In the first pic you can actually see the 1/8" gap that I mentioned in the previous post.

Very Nice ...... looks like its going to be a challenging build! I just purchased a Norseman... built a number of years ago but in good shape. I'm planning to re-cover it and possibly look at installing a twin.

Picture attached......

Norseman
 

A very nice example indeed! What is it covered with now and what do you intend on recovering it with?

I had seriously considered a Saito R3-90 myself, and then a 90 twin because I wanted to keep the engine inside the cowl. I decided on a single once I'd priced everything out. The multis are just out of my range right now. Mounted inverted, I hoping to just squeeze the Saito 82a into the cowl. I might still have rocker covers exposed, but that's something I can live with.

I intend to build more planes in the future, and two that I have in mind will definately have multi-cylinder engines.

Thanks for sharing.