[Captkev]

Hi guys, I need some info on paint techniques. Just finished a 40 size Beaver, which I have primed and spray painted with CTC "Krylon" paint. I used this paint after talking to a few guys up at our flying field last summer, when we were all talking what paints to use. More than a few guys said they used the CTC Krylon, had good success with it, and fuel did not bother it. Looking back now, I was a real dummy, not bothering to check it out with a test pc. You guessed it, its not fuel proof any which way. So here i sit now, with a beautifully finished fuse and wing, that when fuel is brushed on with a brush, a clean cloth will wipe off the paint. Backing up a bit, my Beaver is kit built, all balsa sheet covered, glassed with West System epoxy over 3/4 oz cloth. Previously I have used Luster Coat spray from the LHS, but thought using this system I could really lower down my cost. Found out this morn that the paint surface was not good when I tried to clean off some marks with Alcohol and it dulled and smeared the finish. Can someone tell me, would spraying a clear coat over this paint job make it fuel proof, and if so what kind. Any and all advice appreciated guys. I have put so much time into this project, and right now starting the engine would destroy the paint.

[hifly2104]

Hi don't know much about CTC Krylon,but I have heard guys on here say this paint needs time to cure. Yes fuel proof we need to know which fuel as what is fuel proof for Gas is not fuel proof to glow fuel. So only thing I can suggest is warm room well ventilated and atleast a week or two to cure(have heard some say six weeks)which would be a better choice.If at that time it still marks sorry but recover time !!

[hifly2104]

Oh want to add if someone comes up with something like acrylic varathane, water based . Don't get me wrong I am not ruling it out but the paint still needs to cure.. Everyone has seen cars with the clear peeling away from the colour. (Not factory finishes thats another problem) most people think that is improper sandind etc,wrong PAINT Wasn't CURED solvent in the base coat literally pushed the clear off ( not the total technical answer but you get the idea)

[Captkev]

hifly2104, thanks for the info. Should clarify my original posting. After reading it again tonight, maybe I am giving the impression I used Lusterkote paint on the Beaver. Not so, I meant that I had used it before, but useing the Krylon now on this project. I had a few pcs of scrap that had some Krylon sprayed on a few weeks ago, and even that came off after painting with fuel. But maybe like you say, I will have to wait a few more weeks to retest again. The plane is inside in heat, so will dry out in time. I have been surfing all the old postings tonight and it seems most guys are in favour of a water base clear coat, or flecto Varathane. I could also go to LHS and pick up some Lustercoat Clear Coat if it would go on over this Krylon? Thanks again.

[ronm]

Krylon is laquer, and is not fuel proof. Even after curing. (It cures VERY fast)

You can try to clear-coat it with something like varathane, be sure to test an area first.
Make sure the surface is clean, and a quick sanding with 400 wet would hlp with adhesion.

[michel gravelle]

Hi Capkev
I would like to add my 2 cents worth . I ve used Sico 535 , which I perchase from a autopaint shop its an excellent paint and totally fuel proof and yes its expensive . I believe that its a poly paint . You can find out by going to the Sico site and than contacting them to find if there is a distributer in youre area . This is really good paint , Its industrial , just under aircraft grade . Just trying to help

Michel ( Mike )

[Captkev]

ronm, been going back into all the old postings tonight and checking back here every so often. Seems to be an ongoing thing with lots of other guys, so I don't feel quite as bad now. A lot of guys seem to go for the water based varathane, so I am leaning that way for now. You seem to have some experience with the Krylon, I did not realize it was a laquer, no mention of this anywhere on the can, but does contain everything I thought would make it fuel proof;(acetone,toluene,propane,acetate,butane, zylene,etc & more) Would the water base be ok over the Krylon in your opinion. Thanks for the comeback.

[hifly2104]

Originally Posted by ronm

Krylon is laquer, and is not fuel proof. Even after curing. (It cures VERY fast)

You can try to clear-coat it with something like varathane, be sure to test an area first.
Make sure the surface is clean, and a quick sanding with 400 wet would hlp with adhesion.

I would take it when you say it is lacquer you mean acyrlic not nitrocellulous.

As Ron has stated then adhesion is the big factor when applying something over it. Unfortunately sanding is not the answer an adhesion promotor is. Well that is out of the dictionary of auto refinishing. For what you want to do I would use the water base clear. If it is truely that (Water Base)then it will be fuel proof. Do as Ron has suggested do a test piece and let it dry for a week. When I said heated and ventilated . The ventilation is as much essential as the heat as fresh air will help it cure

[Captkev]

Hi Mike, appeciate the info, but sad to say I dont own any spray painting equipment, or even an air brush. I am kind of limited to spray can paint. Thanks though.[/b]

[hifly2104]

I believe the water base varathane is available at Home Hardware or CTC in spray bombs