[stegl]

This is the AD Turbo Beaver conversion on floats build. The instructions on the float instal is very sparse , some pictures with very little English. I will post pictures as soon as I get my desktop video card issues resolved. The aircraft itself was initially assembled/built by Angus McDonald and I am now the new owner and will continue the built for the floats. Build comment will come with pictures in due course. Thanks for your patience, guys.

[stegl]

Some of the pic's I made as I am going along.
The first picture is the marked ( as per picture instruction book) and cut for the rear main float gear mounts. Drilled to find the opening and then routed out the holes at an angle for the mount to glue in.
Second picture is the hole that was drilled according to the picture book, and then opened up with a Dremel grinder to 8mm. Third picture used a small saw blade ( available from Princess Auto) to cut the forward main double mount.
Fourth picture is gluing a forward double mount using the supplied angle and depth gauge.
Fifth picture is gluing the rear single mount using the angle gauge that was not shown in the picture manual. Just had to assume that the angle was the same as well as the depth.

I taped around the holes to keep the smear of the epoxy to a minimum. the rubber band was also my idea to keep all in position as the glue set. A small square file was used to enlarge the square holes.

Took my time and made sure I did a left and a right float as both floats had the same markings for the mounting holes. More to come. stay tuned.

[stegl]

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/seap...op-beaver.html Go to posting #8
Here is a video of a Boss turbo beaver up and flying. This one is slightly larger that the Aviation Design one... kinda makes the goose bumps rise a bit on startup, doesn't it.

[Angus]

Nice to the project being continued looking forward to seeing it done

Angus

[stegl]

My pleasure. Close friends around here are getting anxious to see this bird on floats. Will be doing some flying instruction this week so will work around that. Next step will be blocking
The fuse so I can attach the float legs. Pulled the A123 batteries and got them charged ; one to 85% the other to 75% . Will let them sit this week and may put them back on the charger to see if I can get them higher.

The other thing to make axcess to the cabin would have been a working door on one side would have been a great help. Just some wishful thinking.....LOL. That has always been my problem with ARF's ....How could it have been built better , syndrome. But when a manufacturer adds that , the price goes up.

Angus , what sort of an arrangement did you use to couple the propane line to the propane tank ? I think I asked about butane/propane mix ? But forgot.
Len

[stegl]

Just happened to check out the length of the spreader bars for the floats and one is about 2mm longer . Nothing in the instructions stating this , so going to assume that the wider goes in the rear because of the taper of the float sides.

[stegl]

Yesterday , did a rough mount of the floats on the fuse. Have taken some picture but haven't had time to get posted as the build has priority. Maybe later today.
Next step is making up the cross ( X) cables and figuring out how they mounted them to the
floats. Will be adding the Dubro turnbuckles on each cable to give me more leaway on snugging up the float cross wires. The limited instruction book shows how many cables and where they should be mounted but no specifics on the tie in point. I have ordered a bunch of metric stainless nuts and bolts to replace the plated ones supplied , from MicroFasteners. The ones ordered will be using the Button head as it just looks cleaner. Don't want rusting on this baby ! Pictures taken as I go, will be posted as I get time.

[stegl]

Finally after much deliberation I have decided on how to mount the spreader bars so they can be unbolted in case of any repairs needed in the future and for easier storage in the winter...
A small lathe makes this easier to do. A 1/4 x20 tap is used to tap the inside of the round aluminum rod. only tap in about1/4 to 3/8 inch as you just want enough for a brass 1/4 x 20 bolt to be located inside for some extra pull grip. Used permanent Loctite. Have about a 3/8 in in brass plug in the end of each tube. Then center drill the plug so a you can tap a 4-40 hole. Pictures may be out of order but you get the idea. the end of each rod will be pulled in tight so the molded spreader bars will be snug.
In the first picture I used brass tubing to fit the 8mm hole and cut a hole at the oposite end as I will be making a drawbar type of thing to pull the float up against the centre spreader bar.


For the drain hole cover I will be fabricating covers using some 2 oz cloth on each side of 1/64th ply. This is of my own doing and not on the plans.

[stegl]

As promised here are a couple of pictures of fuse mounted on gear legs. No explanation on assembling the airfoil covers or what the enclosed balsa sticks are for . About 1/8 th by 3/8th inch wide.

[stegl]

the rear float mounts were drilled for 3mm bolts so had to redrill for the 5mm
socket head bolts as per all the other upper side mounts and "instruction" pictures.. Decided to do them so they could be taped 5mm thread. Will double nut them later.

The lower tube and fittings are Loctited with permanent slip fit stuff so they will stay in position as I will be side drilling them and taping for 2-56 socket head bolts ( X2 ) each...... top and bottim