[al_voisine]

On most ESC's you should hear it arm when you plug it in. If you don't hear the tones that it is arming then Kargon is probably right. ESC has to read at least zero or close to it or it won't arm. However, if it's not armed it won't stutter the motor either, so...

If motor is trying to move (stutter) then the likeliest problem is a bad connection on one of the motor leads, per Papa and John.

AL

[Trendkill555]

Thanks again guys.
Well, this plane is only 3 dys old and has never been flown.
Should I request a replacement motor? I doubt that will fly (pun intended)
Distributors are notorious for the run around, plus I already assembled the plane without checking motor first.....worth a try?
It's from SNHobbies. Don't know if they are hard to deal with or not.

[rotormonkey13]

I don't think you probably need a new motor OR esc. Just pull the connectors apart between the motor and ESC. Check each of the 3 wires by giving the connectors on them a bit of a tug. I'll bet one either has give because it's being held on by heat shrink or just comes off entirely.

Failing that grab a multimeter, and check for continuity between the start of the ESC wire, and the start of the corresponding motor wire. One of them is not connected properly.

It's possible the ESC is a dud, but I'd say not very likely.

Check the timing on the ESC too. If it's set way too high it'll cause this too, though if it's brand new, most escs start with a pretty conservative timing by default, so I doubt this is the problem either.

[Trendkill555]

Gave the wires a tug and checked solder points. Seem to be all good. I guess I'll have to open the motor. Never done that before.....poo

[philipa_240sx]

Originally Posted by astrofler

he other thing that might cause this is a bad solder joint in the ESC/motor connectors .

I've run into the exact same startup issues and the problem has been traced to poor connections in nearly every case.

Usually re-flowing the solder joints on the connectors cures the problem. If the connector looks at all suspect, replace it.

Originally Posted by Trendkill555

Gave the wires a tug and checked solder points. Seem to be all good.

A simple visual inspection or tug on the wires may not reveal a poor solder joint. I would start with re-soldering all the motor connectors (both sides).

Also if the motor wires are solid copper with a red enamel coating, you will need to remove the red enamel on the last 1/2" of wire before soldering. There are few methods to do this. A simple sanding with a nail file works, others use a butane lighter to 'burn' the enamel off (be careful!).

[Trendkill555]

FIXED!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for all the speedy responses and helpful advice everyone. You guys were totally right! Two of the leads were broke off inside the heat shrink, and you had to bend them around a little to feel the difference between a good and bad one.
My new vid sums it all up!

http://youtu.be/XsLT3u-LcKE

[rotormonkey13]

Hey that looks like it's working a little better. Glad you got 'er all fixed up.

Sorry to have led you astray there. Usually the tug test has revealed such problems to me in the past. Guess it doesn't always work

[Trendkill555]

You didn't lead me astray at all. I was tired when I tugged the wires first time. When I pulled the motor lead a second time, I noticed it moved about 1mm. That's when I did my bend test.
Any advice is helpful advice. Thank you for even checking out my thread and trying to help, you did!

[maxx]

Way to go! I am glad that you've solved your problem without having to send your product back for a replacement.