[Tinman]

When building I find one of the pain jobs is cutting the hinge slots, don't like the v shapped slotting tools. My question is, what do you do/use and are the electric slot machine a good choice?

[BlackRain]

It all depends on the type of hinge you use, the slotting machine does make the job oh so much easier in my experience though. Hand cutting slots with a hobby knife is a huge pain in the butt, especially when you are trying to get them line up perfectly and to the correct depth. The slotting machine does take a bit of getting used to but if you use scrap pieces to practice on it makes the whole process that much easier.

Cheers,
BR.

[scaleguy]

Don,

Why don't you like the "V" shaped slotting tools?

Betterchance of getting a straight hingeline then trying to free cut a 3/4" slot with a No.11 blade.

I haven't tried the Electric slotting machine yet as I mostly use the Robart 3/16" Super Hinge Points on Scale Aerobatic and Scale projects. then it's easy, just drill multiple 3/16" holes on the hinge centreline.

I glue them in with "Gorilla Glue" I prefer GG over epoxy in an open structure as the hinge will stick out the back of the trailing edge (inside wing/stab) so when I inject the GG inot the hole and then insert the hinges the glu pushed out the back.

Once all hinges are installed I then turn the wing vertically on edge so the Trailing edge is sitting on the workbench. This allows the glu to run back down the hinge and frms a ball around the joint where the hinge exits the TE. No way that hinge is pulling out when dry without removing wood!

[Xanadu]

I have a GP slot cutting machine and think it works quite well, bit does take a little practice at first like mentioned above.
I have used only CA style hinges so far, with great success. I do know you can get a set of blades for the slot cutter that will cut a thicker slot out as well for nylon hinges.

I find that PU glues expand out edges too much and would be concerned that it would effect the hinge pivot. Caution is required when using it.

[Thunder Chicken]

I used to laugh to myself at the laziness of fellows for using an electric tool for cutting hinge slots. Then one day I watched a friend use it. He lent it to me to try and well, my next order of parts had one on it!!! It saves so much time and friggin' around and like everyone above says, after a little practice makes very nice straight hinge slots!!

[Kevin McGrath]

Throw the flat hinges over the nearest fence and use Robart hinge points.

[JimMcIntyre]

If you do decide to go with the hinge slotter, be aware these use a nylon cam for the movement and it will wear out before you finish a basswood trailing edge.

Ask me how I know.

[scaleguy]

Originally Posted by Xanadu

I find that PU glues expand out edges too much and would be concerned that it would effect the hinge pivot. Caution is required when using it.

Sorry I left out that part.

I like the fact the Pu glue expands and if I don't see any coming back out to the hinge line then i get worried that I did not use enough. I overcome the PU glue getting into the actual livot point by sealing each hinge. I mealt some petroleum jelly in a cut down epoxy mixxing cup sitting in water in a solder melting burner. You fold the hinge over as far as it will go and then dip the joint into the liquid PJ and stick one end itno a block of styrofaom and let it set/dry.

Once everything is glued in I just use a No.11 exacti plade and remove excess glue. Needles to say I tape the surfaces to the TE when glueing so the expanding glue does not force the surface away from the trailing edge.

[mrrandyman]

Robart all the way.

[scaleguy]

Originally Posted by mrrandyman

Robart all the way.

Unless you want removeable surfaces then it's KLETT and Du-Bro as a substitute now.