[grosbeak]

This winter's project is on the bench and ready to go.



Planned components

Engine: DLE 20
Fuel-oil ratio: 32:1
Tank setup: 330 mL Fiji bottle, 3-line system
Receiver: Futaba R617FS
Battery: 6.6V 2500mAH A123
Power management: Tech-Aero IBEC Ultra
Throttle servo: Hitec HS-425BB
Rudder servo: Hitec HS-645MG
Elevator servo: Hitec HS-645MG
Aileron servos: Hitec HS-645MG x 2

After the unboxing (everything present and accounted for) and a couple of readings through the manual I was set to go. Doing things in order (at least for now) I pulled out the lower starboard wing and aileron.

As expected from reviews, the covering needed to be tightened up.




A few careful minutes with the heat gun... much better.




The instructions refer to a CA hinge strip. I don't think I've ever seen anything like this before.




I was planning to replace them with Robart hinges, which have served me well in the past.




Thoughts?

[DO335]

Thank you, sir, for the great weather forecast.

Winter must be almost over if an ARF is the project to get you through it.

Here's hoping that you get to fly it very soon.

[grosbeak]

You haven't followed one of my ARF builds before, have you?

[grosbeak]

I'm going to skip the Robarts this time in favour of Du-Bro (DUB117) flat nylon hinges.

[Cougar429]

Throw out any CA hinges if you want worry free flying. I have seen far too many crack, especially in cold weather.

Robarts are nice and work great for offset hinging, (such as Fowler flaps) though a bit of a pain to maintain alignment.

The larger DuBro that come with the cotter pins are my standard now, but I do cut and bend music wire and keep the cotter pins for other apps. One long piece of music wire is used when bonding in the first half of the hinges into the fixed surface as it keeps them all perfectly aligned.

As for adhesive, tried G/G a few years ago and am sold on it exclusively. Fills gaps completely and I have NEVER had a hinge come loose yet.

Don't forget to grease the pivot area before bonding in........... Same with any area around where you intend to bond as this stuff really expands.

As that Super Stearman is still on my "Lust List" I will follow along and enjoy the build vicariously for now. I also have to agree even ARF's take me an extraordinarily long tine. Started the CL-415 before the Holidays and just started the wings. Mind you, modding does slow things down.

[grosbeak]

Originally Posted by Cougar429

Throw out any CA hinges if you want worry free flying. I have seen far too many crack, especially in cold weather.

Done!

Robarts are nice and work great for offset hinging, (such as Fowler flaps) though a bit of a pain to maintain alignment.

I put them in my AMR 26 kit and Cessna 150 ARF and I agree - they work well but you need to watch the alignment.

The larger DuBro that come with the cotter pins are my standard now, but I do cut and bend music wire and keep the cotter pins for other apps. One long piece of music wire is used when bonding in the first half of the hinges into the fixed surface as it keeps them all perfectly aligned.

Good tip - I went with the regular (locked pin) hinges this time.

As for adhesive, tried G/G a few years ago and am sold on it exclusively. Fills gaps completely and I have NEVER had a hinge come loose yet.

Don't forget to grease the pivot area before bonding in........... Same with any area around where you intend to bond as this stuff really expands.

I've used Gorilla Glue on other stuff not RC related and it's definitely good stuff. But for almost everything RC I prefer polyvinyl acetate (PVA) - cabinetmaker's glue - and my go-to PVA is Lee Valley Cabinetmaker's Glue 2002 GF. It cleans easily with water, dries hard and is an excellent gap filler. From the website:

Our 2002 GF glue is a polyvinyl acetate emulsion adhesive with superior gap-filling characteristics due to its high solids content (45%).

Its high viscosity (6000 cps) reduces joint starving and virtually eliminates staining. Any squeeze-out remains on the surface, allowing it to be fully removed (best done with a cabinet scraper once partially cured), avoiding any problems when a finish is applied later.

When dry, its light brown color is hidden at joint seams, yet is easy to spot should any excess get elsewhere. With an open time of 15 to 20 minutes and a clamping time of 30 to 90 minutes (depending upon application), it can be worked after 4 hours. After 24 hours it reaches its full strength, which is in excess of the strength of the strongest wood in shear, sugar maple.

An excellent formulation, 2002 GF will become your favorite all-around glue. The three smaller sizes come in squeeze bottles with applicator tips.

Made in Canada.

Another bonus - although I do a good cleanup with a wet shop towel after gluing, if a little gets on the hinges it will break free when they're moved back and forth. But they're locked firmly into the slots.

As that Super Stearman is still on my "Lust List" I will follow along and enjoy the build vicariously for now. I also have to agree even ARF's take me an extraordinarily long tine. Started the CL-415 before the Holidays and just started the wings. Mind you, modding does slow things down.

Modding sure does slow things down... and ever since my first ARF I've been unable to resist the temptation.

[grosbeak]

After work yesterday I popped into my LHS (Great Hobbies Ottawa) and picked up the hinges and a slotting tool kit.




After a little work they fit nicely into the pre-cut slots.




Test fit in the wing....




... and with the aileron attached.

[grosbeak]

Favourite glue is ready - Lee Valley PVA.




Glue for the slots...




... and for the hinges.






Before cleanup.




Mostly clean.

[grosbeak]

When I went down to the shop this morning all the hinges were firmly locked in place. Some PVA gets into the hinge pivot but a little back-and-forth breaks it free.




PVA for the aileron slots - a syringe gives finer control over application.




PVA for the hinges.




Aileron glued in place.

[Cougar429]

Where do you buy that Lee Valley PVA?