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Flyinbullmax · 10-01-2009, 01:31 PM

I'm trying to weld steel rods and clevisses but the solder does not stick to it.
I clean it with sanding paper and put paste to it but it wont work. Solder melts and makes bubles and falls on the ground

A little tip would help.

Thanks

Midair · 10-01-2009, 03:17 PM

Hello Bullmax445:

Soldering steel clevises onto steel 4/40 or 6/32 rod shouldn't be a problem. If you've cleaned the rod well with sand paper and you're using flux the only other variable is heat. Make sure that both the clevis and the rod are hot enough to accept the solder and stick; a smaller soldering iron may not generate enough heat to keep both hot. When I solder rods and clevises I use a Weller soldering gun. Good luck

.

Peter

michel gravelle · 10-01-2009, 03:52 PM

Hi JP

Peter has it right .............. HEAT and TIME is everything ............ too little and it won,t work ................. too much and it won,t work .

If I may .................. I find soldering guns , a pain in the bute . I rather use a small propane tourch , and I keep the flame away from the parts I want to solder

Solder melts and makes bubbles and falls on the ground

This above statement tells me you are too hot .

Michel

McFlyer · 10-01-2009, 04:24 PM

I use a propane torch also. I methodically sand and then clean the rod and clevis to be soldered with alcohol or methal hydrate, then I use a liquid flux and heat both rod and clevis at the joint, then hold the heat a little away from the joint to pull the solder through the clevis rod joint. Works every time. Cleanliness of the joint is essential. Sanding the rod in a cross hatch pattern with at least 220 grit paper is also essential. Using good silver solder and flux is a must too. Hope this helps.

Once you get the knack of silver soldering, it can be extremely useful.

**williame3590** · 10-01-2009, 04:31 PM

Yes indeed......torch and flux

Bill

michel gravelle · 10-01-2009, 04:38 PM

Hi

I think McFlyers procedure is RIGHT ON .

I do have my thoughts about Silver Solder thought , and that it is EXTREMELY , over rated . Stay-Brite only has 5% solder , very little . A well soldered lead joint , surpasses our needs , but that's ME. I,ve NEVER had a lead joint , separate as of yet . I do know what a good soldering joint looks like .

Michel

rcjetguy · 10-01-2009, 04:43 PM

Well I've soldered lots of threaded adaptors to 2-56 & 4-40 rod & never had any problems until the other night. I was trying to solder to a rod that came with a cheap Chinese ARF. NOT a chance of working! "The solder just rolled off." I threw the rod in the garbage & got a good (Dubro I believe) rod out & problem solved!

There could be a problem not because of technique, but because of the metalurgy of the "steel".
So Bullmax445, try another brand of rod to see what happens. And please let us know how you make out.

Rcjetguy

Guest · 10-01-2009, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rcjetguy

Well I've soldered lots of threaded adaptors to 2-56 & 4-40 rod & never had any problems until the other night. I was trying to solder to a rod that came with a cheap Chinese ARF. NOT a chance of working! "The solder just rolled off." I threw the rod in the garbage & got a good (Dubro I believe) rod out & problem solved!

There could be a problem not because of technique, but because of the metalurgy of the "steel".
So Bullmax445, try another brand of rod to see what happens. And please let us know how you make out.

Rcjetguy

You got that right! The So Called metal that comes in the chinese ARF's, Well Who knows what it is, but it sure aint anykind of pure metal and its not possible to weld to. I switched to Dubro wire and had no problem at all.

Trevor, (self employed welder for 25 years )

Flyinbullmax · 10-04-2009, 05:51 AM

Well thanks guys for your advises, it finally worked with a little sanding, then cleaning parts in acetone and voilà. A nice welded joint.

Thanks again

voyager_663rd · 10-04-2009, 01:08 PM

"cheap rods" certainly convinced me it wasn't my soldering skills (such as they are) was at fault. Thanks for the tip.

10-01-2009, 01:31 PM	#1
Flyinbullmax RCC Senior Contributor I am: Jean Pierre Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Victoriaville, Qc. G6S 1K3 Radio of choice: JR 7202 # of RCs: 12 Feedback: 16 / 100% Posts: 728 Total Props: 3	welding steel clevisses Remove this ad - become a site supporter! I'm trying to weld steel rods and clevisses but the solder does not stick to it. I clean it with sanding paper and put paste to it but it wont work. Solder melts and makes bubles and falls on the ground A little tip would help. Thanks __________________ FLYIN BULLMAX - MAAC 78165
	.

10-01-2009, 03:17 PM	#2
Midair RCC Pro Contributor I am: Peter M. Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: North Bay, ON Radio of choice: Futaba 18SZ # of RCs: 22 Feedback: 4 / 100% Posts: 1,685 Total Props: 26	Re: welding steel clevisses Hello Bullmax445: Soldering steel clevises onto steel 4/40 or 6/32 rod shouldn't be a problem. If you've cleaned the rod well with sand paper and you're using flux the only other variable is heat. Make sure that both the clevis and the rod are hot enough to accept the solder and stick; a smaller soldering iron may not generate enough heat to keep both hot. When I solder rods and clevises I use a Weller soldering gun. Good luck . Peter __________________ Peter Merkel MAAC #22527 Murphy was an optimist; fly safe and have fun. Last edited by Midair; 10-01-2009 at 03:20 PM.
	.

10-01-2009, 03:52 PM	#3
michel gravelle RCC Supreme Contributor I am: Michel G Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Saint-Jerome Quebec Canada Feedback: 3 / 100% Posts: 3,316 Total Props: 12	Re: welding steel clevisses Hi JP Peter has it right .............. HEAT and TIME is everything ............ too little and it won,t work ................. too much and it won,t work . If I may .................. I find soldering guns , a pain in the bute . I rather use a small propane tourch , and I keep the flame away from the parts I want to solder Solder melts and makes bubbles and falls on the ground This above statement tells me you are too hot . Michel __________________ M.A.A.C. 75640 Hitec Aurora 9 LT-40 LT-60 Alpha-40 Tiger-60 (90 ) ARF P-51 40 TF-P51 Giant KIT TopFite P-51 Giant ARF X 3 Hanger 9 SpitFire 60 ARF X2 TopFlite Elder-40 ( on the board ) Aero Works 540 T -60 The Ground came up and hit my plane
	.

10-01-2009, 04:24 PM	#4
McFlyer RCC Junior Contributor I am: William M. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Trenton, ON. Feedback: 1 / 100% Posts: 195 Total Props: 0	Re: welding steel clevisses I use a propane torch also. I methodically sand and then clean the rod and clevis to be soldered with alcohol or methal hydrate, then I use a liquid flux and heat both rod and clevis at the joint, then hold the heat a little away from the joint to pull the solder through the clevis rod joint. Works every time. Cleanliness of the joint is essential. Sanding the rod in a cross hatch pattern with at least 220 grit paper is also essential. Using good silver solder and flux is a must too. Hope this helps. Once you get the knack of silver soldering, it can be extremely useful.
	.

10-01-2009, 04:31 PM	#5
williame3590 Administrator ★ Site Supporter ★ ★ Site Supporter ★★ Administrator ★ I am: William A Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: York, on Radio of choice: Futaba Feedback: 129 / 100% Posts: 10,204 Total Props: 116	Re: welding steel clevisses Yes indeed......torch and flux Bill __________________ ''engine hoarder''
	.

10-01-2009, 04:38 PM	#6
michel gravelle RCC Supreme Contributor I am: Michel G Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Saint-Jerome Quebec Canada Feedback: 3 / 100% Posts: 3,316 Total Props: 12	Re: welding steel clevisses Hi I think McFlyers procedure is RIGHT ON . I do have my thoughts about Silver Solder thought , and that it is EXTREMELY , over rated . Stay-Brite only has 5% solder , very little . A well soldered lead joint , surpasses our needs , but that's ME. I,ve NEVER had a lead joint , separate as of yet . I do know what a good soldering joint looks like . Michel __________________ M.A.A.C. 75640 Hitec Aurora 9 LT-40 LT-60 Alpha-40 Tiger-60 (90 ) ARF P-51 40 TF-P51 Giant KIT TopFite P-51 Giant ARF X 3 Hanger 9 SpitFire 60 ARF X2 TopFlite Elder-40 ( on the board ) Aero Works 540 T -60 The Ground came up and hit my plane
	.

10-01-2009, 04:43 PM	#7
rcjetguy RCC Contributor I am: Ed P. Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Bluewater Ontario Feedback: 1 / 100% Posts: 347 Total Props: 0	Re: welding steel clevisses Well I've soldered lots of threaded adaptors to 2-56 & 4-40 rod & never had any problems until the other night. I was trying to solder to a rod that came with a cheap Chinese ARF. NOT a chance of working! "The solder just rolled off." I threw the rod in the garbage & got a good (Dubro I believe) rod out & problem solved! There could be a problem not because of technique, but because of the metalurgy of the "steel". So Bullmax445, try another brand of rod to see what happens. And please let us know how you make out. Rcjetguy __________________ no such thing as too fast! Last edited by rcjetguy; 10-01-2009 at 04:47 PM. Reason: added info
	.

10-04-2009, 05:51 AM	#9
Flyinbullmax RCC Senior Contributor I am: Jean Pierre Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Victoriaville, Qc. G6S 1K3 Radio of choice: JR 7202 # of RCs: 12 Feedback: 16 / 100% Posts: 728 Total Props: 3	Re: welding steel clevisses Well thanks guys for your advises, it finally worked with a little sanding, then cleaning parts in acetone and voilà. A nice welded joint. Thanks again __________________ FLYIN BULLMAX - MAAC 78165
	.

10-04-2009, 01:08 PM	#10
voyager_663rd RCC Supreme Contributor I am: Len, an RPAS pilot Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Toronto, Ont Feedback: 1 / 100% Posts: 4,650 Total Props: 20	Re: welding steel clevisses "cheap rods" certainly convinced me it wasn't my soldering skills (such as they are) was at fault. Thanks for the tip.
	.

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