[lecrote]

Originally Posted by canadianice

To get the rounding effect you cut the inside of the flutes of corro and bend them arround your formers and to get complex or compound curves you cut all the way through and tack glue with ca and then coat the inside with poly glue to get the strength back.

Thanks for the input for the engine mount!!!

As far the round effect I know how to do turtle deck it is similar!!

Spad 2610 corospit and corostang have round shape on top and square one on botom like the first me109 of Ken I think!!!

I was just searching how to do the round on botom Now as I understand you use former all the way until the tail section and the tail section is done with shaped foam and wrap with 2mm

As far for my technique I was thinking of a profile fuse with foam former and 2mm wrap.

something like CORO made on rcuniverse here
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_15...tm.htm#1535727

and here

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_27..._1/key_/tm.htm

And here some Flush/streamlined Aileron joints

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_14...tm.htm#1430211

Man too many things to try and to less time

Thanks and good combat for this summer.

Dan

[Buzz]

Dan,

My Ki has a 4mm rounded bottom, same technique that Iceman uses, except now I'm being more strategic about the flutes I cut, and dont use polyurethane glue to stiffen it up.

About 1/2" of the side edges are stripped of their flutes, so as to end up with a thin sheet of plastic, giving the fuse bottom a "lip" to overlap onto the fuse sides and contact cemented in place. I prefer contact cement wherever possible becasue it gives the whole plane a little flex and avoids a rigid "crackable" plane.

As for the turtle deck, no coro. Just foam sanded to shape, then give it a few coats of acrilyc polyurethane to not make it so soft, and cover with sign vinyl scuffed with agray scotchbrite pad before applying. This makes it accept paint real well, or if you are lucky enough to have the right colour scheme, no paint is necessary. My Ki has no paint on it, except for the scale balsa exhaust stacks. The rest is all avery sign vinyl.

Regarding ailerons, that techniwue looks interesting on RCuniverse, but I sandwich a 4mm aileron in between the 2mm wing skin. This keeps a better airfoil profile. That flush aileron technique would disturb the airfoil profile.

With the fuse building technique you pointed to on RCuniverse, that looks like an awful lot of work for a finished product that looks as good as Ken Park's me109 with alot less effort to build.

Essentially, its all good, but for combat I think the point is, light as possible, cheap, fast build, some degree of toughness, so whatever works for you I guess.

Just my 2c