[mogman]

Block the floats so that the top of the float is level. Adjust the length of the float struts so that there is about 1.5-2.0 deg. positive on the wing (use an incidence meter)
Most cub/float installations look as if the plane is very nose down, just due to the shape of the fuse etc.
From your photos it looks as if you need to shorten the front struts a fair bit.

[4*60]

Originally Posted by DO335

You guys really ought to get a copy of "The Compleat (sic) Taildragger Pilot " by Harvey Plourde, read it and learn how these planes planes fly. You'll be doing a much better job after that.

BTW, whoever proof read his book had some problems. Thats why there is the spelling error in the title. Proper word is complete. But that's life. Too late now. Harvey is deceased.

You ARE joking Right?!

[supercub1974]

Just looking at some pics of my old floats and somethings not right with the new setup. I will have to make some modifications tonight.

[moo]

Originally Posted by DO335

BTW, whoever proof read his book had some problems. Thats why there is the spelling error in the title. Proper word is complete. But that's life. Too late now. Harvey is deceased.

Much more likely a tip of the hat to The Compleat Angler by Izaak Walton, published 1653

[supercub1974]

Found this on the net if anyone else is interested.

Incidence: When the plane is scooting along on top of the water, the wing needs to get enough of a bite of air to lift the plane. So we set the floats in the takeoff attitude ( usually with the tops level) and tweak the wing up with 2-4 degrees of incidence (shown as 0-5 degrees in Fig 1.). If you have a flat-bottom airfoil the actual incidence is from the true leading edge to the trailing edge. So having the bottom of the wing parallel to the top of the float is frequently just about right because the actual wing incidence is different than the bottom of the wing. If your plane has a wing that is curved on the bottom, make sure that the leading edge sits higher then the trailing edge with the tops of the floats level. 3 degrees is really close to 1/2" incidence on a 10" wing. It might be easier to rig the plane if you remove the wing and measure from the wing saddle. Another method for setting the incidence is to set the horizontal stabilizer parallel to the tops of the floats. Sometimes that's easier because many planes have a flat-plate stab and it's easy to set a torpedo level on that to rig the incidence.
IF YOU DON"T HAVE ENOUGH INCIDENCE: The plane will likely refuse to take off unless the water is choppy. Many call this "suction". What it really means is that your float installation sucks. Also, some goober will tell you that you need a bigger engine. You don't, unless your plane won't fly except at Wide-Open-Throttle.
IF YOU HAVE TOO MUCH INCIDENCE: The plane will become unstable during the takeoff run because it rides on the noses of the floats at high speed instead of riding on the step. If this happens, hold a little back-stick on the takeoff run. Porpoising on the takeoff run is also an indicator of too much incidence, and also resolved with a touch of up elevator until you fix the floats.

This is for takeoff but i now get the idea.

[JKovats]

I found out from my library that this is a "self published" book and thus hard to get. The spelling mistake is a laugh, it throws everybody off including me when I first started looking.

My library is trying to find a copy.

[supercub1974]

After heating and reshaping the wire for the floats I now have 5/8" on the 12" wing. I will give this a try the next fine day we have. Thanks for all the replies.

[kip51035]

The maximum achievable takeoff angle is when the A/C is sitting on the main step and the tail end of the floats. Caution big fat water rudders and the brackets that stick down below the stern of the floats will keep the back of the floats from touching the water, reducing the angle. A lot of the full size A/C when you put them in this position will stay there. On a model aircraft eight to ten degrees "angle of attack" is enough. Changing the wing angle will cause in flight trim problems.

[supercub1974]

At 5/8" rise on a 12" wing that only gives me maybe 3 degrees? Havn't had the weather to try it out yet.

[stegl]

Originally Posted by supercub1974

I think you are right, I should have posted some pics before but seems the nose of the floats are way low. I have a pic with the top of the float level and a pic with the bottom of the wing level.

First of all according to the pictures you have way too much positive incidence on the wing/floats ( guessing at 10 plus degrees). Level the floats (top) and then set the wing at about 2 to 3 degrees positive (depending on airfoil shap) and that will definitely help. When flying ( keep the landing speed up) try landing on the back of the floats and when you touch down then throttle back and the contact with the water will slow you down quickly. Do that and you should have perfect landing pretty much all of the time. I know it works for me .

Attached is an angle measureing tool that would work well but the best one is the Robart Model Incidence Meter. They are still made but almost a "must have" for model airplane buidling, assemby or setup. They are worth a few dollars but worth every penny. I bought mine over 20 years ago and use it all the time.