[Abiye]

steve's right... most of us have the ttr box but you can use the chrome top if you like... i know a few of the guys from ftr use it... jason can even get you a neat plate that has the shape of the 8 chassis cut out and it bolts right up to the chrome top... i've got one of his chrome tops he left at tillsonburg with a place for the truggy on it and it works well

[Stratus]

I just traded Vic for my Ofna Chrome top for a Dynamite Torque starter box I should be able to get that box to work ...

[c-low74]

the mugen box works great with the losi or the ofna blue truggy box

[POWLING]

how have you guys set up your gel cells in your TTR boxes? i am getting one and dont know how to mount it, wire it, and which cell to get.

thanks

[CRUSHER]

I am runniing with 2 stick packs to power my box... with no problems.

[Abiye]

i've got a gel cell in mine... i just put in some foam in there to push it to one side and it geld in there pretty good... as far as wiring... its pretty simple... just take the leads that would have went to the stick pack and plug it into the gel cell

[POWLING]

thanks guys. helped a lot

[ruffmt1]

What method of break in do you recomend for werks team line .21b7 pro?
Should I start break in with 20% then go to 30% after a tank or 2 or just run 30% for the whole process?
What plug or plugs do you recomend so I can pick up spares before I start break in?
Thanks

[Speed Metal]

Originally Posted by ruffmt1

What method of break in do you recomend for werks team line .21b7 pro?
Should I start break in with 20% then go to 30% after a tank or 2 or just run 30% for the whole process?
What plug or plugs do you recomend so I can pick up spares before I start break in?
Thanks

Hope you Team Lsoi guys don't mind me answering part of this Q?

From my thread over @RCTech.net.

Originally Posted by Werks Racing

crc57, go with the O'Donnell OD97T or #6 or #7 from any of the Italians. Head is shimmed out of the box for 30%.

As for break-in use Nitro withthe same % as you're gonna run. Here's what Werks recommeds:

http://werksracing.com/faq.do?id=8

• Breaking in the Werks Team Line B7
  
  Out of the Box needle settings (360 degree total rotations from being closed): Low End 6.5, Mid Range 1.75, Top End 8.5. Idle stop screw opening; 5% (>.5mm). Recommended glow plugs are McCoy 59 (hot) and McCoy 8 (medium) Head shimming is at .01775 (2 thick [.18mm], 2 thin [.9mm])
  
  This initial setting will be slightly rich for the idle mixture and extremely rich for top end.
  
  Break-in is about mixture, the focus isn’t all RPM. Tank one should be at a very rich idle setting. To achieve this, turn the idle stop screw in about .75 of a turn (so the slide is 1-1.5mm open, about 15%). When the engine starts, the idle will be high. Bring the idle down via the low end needle. This will ensure a rich idle setting. After the engine runs out of fuel, let it cool for 45 minutes.
  
  From tank two on, you will be driving. Start the engine again and slowly ramp up the throttle. If the engine dies, it’s because the low end is too rich, so lean it down 1/8th of a turn so you can get through the rpm range. The top end should be extremely rich, meaning full throttle only achieves 10-15 mph. If the vehicle is faster than this, richen the top end to be on the verge of a 4 stroking sound. You can keep driving the vehicle in 30 minute intervals, leaning the top end approximately 1/8th turn per tank. Smoothly go through the rpm range, full throttle is fine for short bursts. The process should take a quart of fuel and a few hours to get to racing settings.

Good luck!

regards

speed metal

[Dave Henry]

no problem helping speed metal

ignore the head shimming info in the previous post, they come shimmed close to .024-.028 now

also if you are turning in the bottom or mid needles to check them, do this with the carb wide open, otherwise you may score or bend the low/mid needles if you turn them in too snug,this goes for all types of engines