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General RC Heli Discussion Discuss general topics on rotary wing aircraft, including construction, Servo's, Gryo's and Stabilizer discussions. |
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12-27-2011, 07:14 AM | #21 |
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Re: Batteries in Series
So you guys got that all sorted out yet? LOL Awesome.
All hooked up! Made my "Y" plug strapped on the batteries and went for a flight. It did have more power! Nothing drastic but no motor bogging at all. I thought all was good. I was happy with the out come. Then I put the batteries on the charger. The Th cell in my 6s is completely toast. It is reading 0.0 and will not charge. All other cells are 3.85. The 2s survived wonderfully and took a full charge no problem. Must have been a bad cell. That was the only flight I got out of that 6s battery. HK will do nothing for me as I received them more that a month ago. I have one more 45C 6s I'm going to try in a 8s configuration. If it works and survives I will keep this motor in. If the battery cant handle it I'm switching back to a 6s setup.
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12-27-2011, 01:30 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Batteries in Series
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YOu may well have been able to get the power you needed from a 3S pack and still stay a lot cooler, but you would probably have needed a pack with a lot higher mah and/or C (current capablity) rating and maybe even an ESC with a higher Amp rating. That is why going to the smaller prop and higher voltage was a simpler solution. Changing then size of the prop was like changing the pinion on a heli in order to keep the wattage demand the same. Then using higher voltage packs, you are working at a lower amperage so less heat etc.
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12-28-2011, 07:58 AM | #23 |
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Re: Batteries in Series
More voltage is better only if your esc can handle the power. If your motor and esc aren't rated for a higher number of cells then you may be stuck with having to run more amps.
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12-28-2011, 10:06 AM | #24 |
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Re: Batteries in Series
Ty, I think I remember Ben posting about his setup in another thread a while back. His ESC was rated for the voltage he was putting in, but blew up anyway. Good point though.
Something else worth mentioning is that even if the ESC is rated for 8S or whatever, it turns out most BECs that are integrated with them aren't. Most are rated for 4s or less, so if you plug that BEC straight into an 8s pack expect things to blow up. I found that out the hard way when I was getting into big electrics
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12-28-2011, 12:18 PM | #25 | |
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Re: Batteries in Series
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I don't trust any BEC over 5s and on a heli nothing over 3s. I think the overall loads on the servos on a heli are worse than on a plane. I never had issues with my old HK escs on 5s in a small Yak but it would scare me to try that again in a 500+ sized heli.
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12-28-2011, 03:58 PM | #26 |
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Re: Batteries in Series
It was the becs that did fry on my ESC's. I also found my control would fade in and out when I had six cells hooked up. On my 600 I use a separate 20 amp BEC rated for three cells but they never label these things in watts because it appears to be the proper measure for electronics in theses things.
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12-28-2011, 06:14 PM | #27 |
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Re: Batteries in Series
I tried a Castle Creations 20Amp BEC on my 600 and it wasn't enough!!!! It cost me $300 at least to fix it after it did a brownout on me 40 feet up. Use a battery on anything bigger than a 450. Reassurance IS Insurance! Since I put the 6.0V on my 600. I haven't seens any errors except my own. lol
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12-28-2011, 07:09 PM | #28 |
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Re: Batteries in Series
I do have a separate battery for my servos, gyro and reciever. The batteries for the motor are only for the motor now if my servos were pulling more than 20 amps then I'm sure I would smell things frying on the bench. Based on what we are finding I think all components should be rated in watts only plus specify the maximum voltage allowed ie battery cells and or battery voltage.
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12-28-2011, 07:36 PM | #29 |
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Re: Batteries in Series
It all depends on context. Often when it comes to electronics watts don't matter as much. Most ESCs for example will tell you max cells (voltage) and an amp max. The max amps are there because that's what generates heat. So it doesn't matter to the ESC if you're running 50 amps at 10v (50 watts) or 50 amps at 50v (2500 watts) - if 50 amps is the max, then that's the max because that's what'll generate the heat.
Motors on the other hand usually post max watts in their specs so you have some idea of what sort of ESC to buy. They also post kv (rpm per volt), etc to give you an idea of how to get the HS you're looking for,etc. Motors will have a max amp rating too. Though it's often not published in the specs. You can figure out if you're over or not though just by seeing that the motor is running 200 degrees. Chargers - same deal. It may be a 1000w charger, but if it can only output 5a max on each port - it's still not useful. Context is everything. While having a wattage spec is useful for some things, it's really not what you need for others.
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12-28-2011, 08:11 PM | #30 |
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Re: Batteries in Series
Makes sense to me now. I have been pulling wrenches for the last 12 years so my electrician skills are dusty as well as my cranky old gizzerd attitude has been getting the better of me. Thanks for letting me know what KV meant I was wondering about that one.
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