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Old 03-03-2006, 09:36 PM   #11
Peter Gordon
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got the anti rotation dowel repaired. I removed the broken bits from the wing, aligned them and glued them together, clamped, then used the tube to locate it in the wing properly. I used a q-tip to apply gorilla glue to the wing sheeting and the rib edges, and it set up perfectly. I'l eventually figure out that the first pic you attach appears last
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Old 03-05-2006, 01:32 PM   #12
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removable rudder

I decided to go with a removable rudder since I've found the one on my 33% CAP (from Tony Kreg) seems to come in handy. I know the piano wire will add a tiny bit of tail weight, but I think I'lve already decided to go with my zdz 80 for now.

So, $1.00 for 0.062" piano wire. I dremel'd the hinge pin off (the supplied hinges are almost exactly like the robart hinge points, except better since the pin has a grove the length of the hinge that lets the gorilla glue expand throughout the pin.

Oiled up the wire, and the hinge knuckles.

Wet the holes a bit with a q-tip and water, then dab gorilla glue into the holes, then line up the hinges into the vertical stab.
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Old 03-05-2006, 01:35 PM   #13
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... then push the pins so that the wire is flush with the stab edge, mop up the excess glue that pushes out with some paper towels...
...line up the rudder after repeating the wetting and hole gluing (forgot to mention to put some glue on the pins before stuffing them into the holes...

You can see from the picture that the glue on the vert. stab has already started to foam and expand a bit...

...then press the rudder flush with the wire...
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Old 03-05-2006, 01:36 PM   #14
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here is a pic of the glue before it starts to foam. There is barely any in the bottom on the dixie cup...
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Old 03-05-2006, 02:06 PM   #15
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... and now after some time, you can see how much the glue foams and expands. When dry, the foam is rock hard, and has filled any gaps...
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Old 03-05-2006, 09:15 PM   #16
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Hey I took the same pics but didn't post them.. too funny. I thought I was beeing annal.. I guess not!

Nice job so far.
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Old 03-12-2006, 07:44 AM   #17
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verbal update

Thanks to some of your replies here https://www.rccanada.ca/bb/viewtopic....110&highlight= I was able to successfully drill the hole through the elevators for the threaded rod control horns. Just have to repeat for the ailerons (a pain in the neck as I've already glued them into the wings) and then the rudder easy, as I made it removable).

Have been thinking of the engine for this plane... the ZDZ 50 NG that I have may be a bit on the small side, so I'm considering the 60. But looking at the 60 and the 80, the 80 is 4.2 lbs versus the 60 at 4.1 lbs. All other dimensions are the same except for the squareness of the cylinder (length to prop hub, mounting holes, height to top of cylinder all the same). So I think I'll use the 80 to get things going, and if there is too much power (is it possible ) I'll consider the 60. Thanks to Mike for the chat.

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Old 03-15-2006, 07:33 PM   #18
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diet time?

Thought I'd try to start lightening the plane behind the wing tube in hopes to get it to balance with a zdz 50 eventually. So, obvious first place to start was the hatch. Marked it, razor saw'd it, then dremel'd a round corner to remove stress points. Dropped the hatch by almost 3 oz.
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Old 03-15-2006, 07:37 PM   #19
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cowl alignment

Next is alignment of the cowl. The plane has 4 hardpoints with 4x40 blind nuts installed. I cut cardstock, drilled a hole in the end, put the 4x40 screw through the cardstock hole and into the hard point blind nut, then taped the cardstock to the plane. This locates the hole exactly. Removing the screw, mounting the cowl, then transfering the cardstock hole onto the cowl locates where I have to drill. Easy. Perfect.
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Old 03-15-2006, 07:47 PM   #20
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looks good peter!

I like that technique works great! use it all the time!!

keep the pics comming!

i'm working on my last project as well before spring!! should be done soon i hope!

cheers!

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