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imported_PB · 05-20-2005, 10:52 AM

Well as some of you may or may not know, I with the help of CRS have designed a set of Lowered TVP's for the Savage. While lowered TVP's are nothing new, our's allow a fair amount of options built into the design. For the past year I ran the LCG plates with the stock equipment (radio box/servo locations) so to speak. Well with our latest run (V3 plates as posted in the market place), I decided to do the mid-tank mod.

Anyway, the purpose of this thread is to highlight the modifications required for those that got in on a group buy, and what is required to get the savage to "Race Level". It's a work in progress as right now I'm missing a few things, but I should be complete sometime soon.

This first post is just to show the basic setup of the TVP's with the stock equipment (perfect for the basher.) While not every picture is provided, I'm sure you get the idea.

Subsequent posts will highlight my conversion over to full race setup by moving the tank up front.

This first pic just shows the angle of the drive shaft, and if you use your imagination, you can see the tiny bit of material that is required to be removed (compared with all other LCG TVP designs of this lowering level.)

This next pic just show's the front driveshaft angle and the holes that are pre-drilled for both the stock radio box and the center tank mod.

Next up is a pic of the stock tank mounted in the stock location, notice the notches in the TVP to allow the tank to sit as low as possible.

This picture show's more of the clearance cut that is required and the rear drive cup (underneath the motor.) I have made a little bit extra room as I decided to keep the stock plastic cover on the drive cup.

imported_PB · 05-20-2005, 10:53 AM

Okay, first up is a shot of the steering posts, and how they will be secured without the stock radio box. In order for this to work, you need to drill 4 holes (actually, your just enlarging holes.) You need either a 4mm or a 0.156" bit and enlarge the holes in the cross brace as well as the TVP's. Once that is done, some loctite and start screwing things together.

Now it's time to move the tank, the first think I did was to enlarge a second set of holes in the TVP. I then screwed in the engine cross brace (don't drill the hole out this time). You then use a 3mm screw and the stock rear tank mount and using the holes provided, screw the mount in. (the next 2 pics show what I'm refering to.)

Now I started mounting the throttle servo, I just used two single point mounts (and as you can see by the pic, I gave the option of using one dual mount in case someone is concerned about strength.) The mounts I used are from RPM and I used M3x12 screws to attach them. You can also see in the pic that I left a decent amount of room to install a throttle sevo of various size.

That's about as far as I have gotten. I'm waiting on some double servo mounts and my HPI aluminum shocks from the LHS. Once I get those I'll finish mounting them up. In case you want to see what the truck looks like, here is two pics showing my progress so far:

spond · 05-20-2005, 01:01 PM

Man.. PB.. that is looking sweet.. by the time I get mine done.. we may have twins.. lol... except I'll have POP CANS for shocks... lol...

Good work on the TVP's by the way..

TriggerHappy · 05-22-2005, 10:14 PM

Errr...damn...sorry I just drooled on the monitor.That would probably take me about 80 hours to do lol. Looks really nice, hope I get to see it in person one day.

spond · 05-23-2005, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TriggerHappy

hope I get to see it in person one day.

Your wish is my command.. racer two.. on order...

imported_PB · 05-23-2005, 09:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TriggerHappy

Errr...damn...sorry I just drooled on the monitor.That would probably take me about 80 hours to do lol. Looks really nice, hope I get to see it in person one day.

Nah, with my latest gen plates, you could do the conversion in about an hour assuming you had everything with you. The truck will look better as soon as I get those shocks... *cough* *cough* SPOND!!!

PB

imported_PB · 05-28-2005, 10:21 AM

Okay, for this next update, I've done the following:

Mounted battery box up front (original concept by SicJ I believe, but rather than requiring a brace, I figured out a way to mount it lower and with only one screw! Not the most beautiful thing in the world, but what I did was cut up a part from the same tree as the battery box (HPI Part # A349) and bent it at a 90° angle. I then put a M3x25 through and locked the box down. Take a Look:

Next thing I did was mount the receiver box (project box). It holds the receiver and the switch. I ended up having to bulge the box to make everything fit (where the wires plug into the receiver, can't see it in the photo...)

Sorry about the dust in all the pics, stupid me forgot to move the truck while I was sanding/cutting the body... In the next update, I'll mount the steering servo and the shocks... And will hopefully have the body painted!

PB

Flyingblind · 05-28-2005, 02:46 PM

PB,

That looks... sick. I see you got the shock towers done.

Been sorta busy getting an 18TZ into my TNX to have spent much time on this one. I've only done the TVPs but with the photos and instructions you've posted, i might have to re-prioritize.

imported_PB · 05-30-2005, 06:57 AM

Well my plans changed this weekend... The LHS wanted too much money for the HPI shocks so I ended up ordering a set of LST shocks off of ebay. Not bad, $62 US including shipping... Anyway, I'm going to have to change a few things to get them mounted, including the body, I just don't see them fitting under it too well... so I think the CP2.0 might be a necessity <but I have one anyway, it's just with Doug at the moment!!!

>As for the receiver box, I but and glued a project box from hammonmfg.com. I think the part number is 1591ABK. It was like $4 and all I did was run it through a mitre saw twice. I then glued it back together with PVC plastic weld. I also followed up with some CA on the inside for extra strength. To make sure there was room for the servo connectors, I head up the top section and bubbled it out a little. To secure it to the chassis, I drilled two holes in the TVP's and then screwed directly into the side of the project box.

I do suggest the front mounted battery box though... as it keeps the battery as far forward as possible. It should make the truck very well balanced, and as soon as I've got everything mounted, I'm going to check the center point.

PB

Flyingblind · 05-30-2005, 08:36 PM

I've got a CP2.0 for my TNX and it will definitly fit the Savage. And here's proof:

05-20-2005, 10:52 AM	#1
imported_PB Join Date: May 2004 Feedback: 0 / 0% Posts: 523 Total Props: 0	Another Savage Racer Remove this ad - become a site supporter! Well as some of you may or may not know, I with the help of CRS have designed a set of Lowered TVP's for the Savage. While lowered TVP's are nothing new, our's allow a fair amount of options built into the design. For the past year I ran the LCG plates with the stock equipment (radio box/servo locations) so to speak. Well with our latest run (V3 plates as posted in the market place), I decided to do the mid-tank mod. Anyway, the purpose of this thread is to highlight the modifications required for those that got in on a group buy, and what is required to get the savage to "Race Level". It's a work in progress as right now I'm missing a few things, but I should be complete sometime soon. This first post is just to show the basic setup of the TVP's with the stock equipment (perfect for the basher.) While not every picture is provided, I'm sure you get the idea. Subsequent posts will highlight my conversion over to full race setup by moving the tank up front. This first pic just shows the angle of the drive shaft, and if you use your imagination, you can see the tiny bit of material that is required to be removed (compared with all other LCG TVP designs of this lowering level.) This next pic just show's the front driveshaft angle and the holes that are pre-drilled for both the stock radio box and the center tank mod. Next up is a pic of the stock tank mounted in the stock location, notice the notches in the TVP to allow the tank to sit as low as possible. This picture show's more of the clearance cut that is required and the rear drive cup (underneath the motor.) I have made a little bit extra room as I decided to keep the stock plastic cover on the drive cup.
	.

05-20-2005, 10:53 AM	#2
imported_PB Join Date: May 2004 Feedback: 0 / 0% Posts: 523 Total Props: 0	Now for the Race Setup Okay, first up is a shot of the steering posts, and how they will be secured without the stock radio box. In order for this to work, you need to drill 4 holes (actually, your just enlarging holes.) You need either a 4mm or a 0.156" bit and enlarge the holes in the cross brace as well as the TVP's. Once that is done, some loctite and start screwing things together. Now it's time to move the tank, the first think I did was to enlarge a second set of holes in the TVP. I then screwed in the engine cross brace (don't drill the hole out this time). You then use a 3mm screw and the stock rear tank mount and using the holes provided, screw the mount in. (the next 2 pics show what I'm refering to.) Now I started mounting the throttle servo, I just used two single point mounts (and as you can see by the pic, I gave the option of using one dual mount in case someone is concerned about strength.) The mounts I used are from RPM and I used M3x12 screws to attach them. You can also see in the pic that I left a decent amount of room to install a throttle sevo of various size. That's about as far as I have gotten. I'm waiting on some double servo mounts and my HPI aluminum shocks from the LHS. Once I get those I'll finish mounting them up. In case you want to see what the truck looks like, here is two pics showing my progress so far:
	.

05-20-2005, 01:01 PM	#3
spond Alumni Mod I am: Scott P Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Killaloe Feedback: 0 / 0% Posts: 2,240 Total Props: 0	Man.. PB.. that is looking sweet.. by the time I get mine done.. we may have twins.. lol... except I'll have POP CANS for shocks... lol... Good work on the TVP's by the way.. __________________ SUPERD's PAST PITMAN just ask SuperD Sprucewood - First B-main, 9th A-main Bellvegas - 4th A-MAIN Truggy TTR S3 - Rossi M21 (on side lines all summer) TTR ST-1 with LSK OMG.. Savage Racer -
	.

05-22-2005, 10:14 PM	#4
TriggerHappy RCC Junior Contributor Join Date: Mar 2005 Feedback: 0 / 0% Posts: 206 Total Props: 0	Errr...damn...sorry I just drooled on the monitor.That would probably take me about 80 hours to do lol. Looks really nice, hope I get to see it in person one day. __________________ --=Savage Flux goin 4s for now=-- ---=====RC18T=====--- "Everyday, my drive to work: gas, brake, honk; gas, brake, honk; honk, honk, punch; gas, gas, gas."
	.

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05-28-2005, 10:21 AM	#7
imported_PB Join Date: May 2004 Feedback: 0 / 0% Posts: 523 Total Props: 0	Okay, for this next update, I've done the following: Mounted battery box up front (original concept by SicJ I believe, but rather than requiring a brace, I figured out a way to mount it lower and with only one screw! Not the most beautiful thing in the world, but what I did was cut up a part from the same tree as the battery box (HPI Part # A349) and bent it at a 90° angle. I then put a M3x25 through and locked the box down. Take a Look: Next thing I did was mount the receiver box (project box). It holds the receiver and the switch. I ended up having to bulge the box to make everything fit (where the wires plug into the receiver, can't see it in the photo...) Sorry about the dust in all the pics, stupid me forgot to move the truck while I was sanding/cutting the body... In the next update, I'll mount the steering servo and the shocks... And will hopefully have the body painted! PB
	.

05-28-2005, 02:46 PM	#8
Flyingblind Join Date: Jan 2005 Feedback: 0 / 0% Posts: 292 Total Props: 0	PB, That looks... sick. I see you got the shock towers done. Been sorta busy getting an 18TZ into my TNX to have spent much time on this one. I've only done the TVPs but with the photos and instructions you've posted, i might have to re-prioritize.
	.

05-30-2005, 06:57 AM	#9
imported_PB Join Date: May 2004 Feedback: 0 / 0% Posts: 523 Total Props: 0	Well my plans changed this weekend... The LHS wanted too much money for the HPI shocks so I ended up ordering a set of LST shocks off of ebay. Not bad, $62 US including shipping... Anyway, I'm going to have to change a few things to get them mounted, including the body, I just don't see them fitting under it too well... so I think the CP2.0 might be a necessity <but I have one anyway, it's just with Doug at the moment!!! >As for the receiver box, I but and glued a project box from hammonmfg.com. I think the part number is 1591ABK. It was like $4 and all I did was run it through a mitre saw twice. I then glued it back together with PVC plastic weld. I also followed up with some CA on the inside for extra strength. To make sure there was room for the servo connectors, I head up the top section and bubbled it out a little. To secure it to the chassis, I drilled two holes in the TVP's and then screwed directly into the side of the project box. I do suggest the front mounted battery box though... as it keeps the battery as far forward as possible. It should make the truck very well balanced, and as soon as I've got everything mounted, I'm going to check the center point. PB
	.

05-30-2005, 08:36 PM	#10
Flyingblind Join Date: Jan 2005 Feedback: 0 / 0% Posts: 292 Total Props: 0	I've got a CP2.0 for my TNX and it will definitly fit the Savage. And here's proof:
	.

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