[FearFerretRC]

So I was perusing the archives to see if this has been done. I didnt read all the way back, but I didnt see anything on this.

The Idea :

Design and build a break in table or device to ease the break in process. Also to make break in easier by bringing it to your workshop/workarea for your MT.

I am not sure if anyone has done this. What I am looking for are ideas on how to do this, what to incorporate, what not to etc.

Rough Idea

1. Flat surface such as an old countertop or piece of plywood
2. Straps to hold the MT/Buggy down
3. Either a steel pipe/tube or sollid round bar, bored at each end with bearing inserted into it
4. Axles for the bearings
5. Long rubber/plastic tube to attach to the exhaust to send the fumes outside.

That is the rough idea. If anyone knows what a dyno looks like and how it works as far as strapping a car down, that is where I am going with this.

I am looking to buy a new Savage, but if I can get a used one then all is well too. The point is that I intend to do upgrades/mods on any MT that I might own. The biggest part (from what understand) is the break-in and tuning process. Maybe this can ease that.

Also I would like this to be portable. So we are out at the track, and the MT needs to be tuned. Set up the table and off you go.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Tom
FearFerretRC

[hyper7man]

wow, that sounds neat, tell me if it's a sucess, and if it is, please tell me how you did it.

[Guest]

There are a number of dyno's out there xtreme rc mag has one which is one of the more accurate available. I'm not sure how they work or if they put enough load on the driveline to mock the equivelant of a regular break in

[FearFerretRC]

Warlock wrote:
I'm not sure how they work or if they put enough load on the driveline to mock the equivelant of a regular break in

Well thats what I am looking for, how to recreate the resistance. Should the entire truck be strapped down, or should just he suspesnsion be strapped?

Now, I do know when you use a dyno for a car they strap the car onto the dyno, one strap at the reat to keep it from taking off and straps elsewhere to recreate resistance. Also there is resistance in the dyno rollers themselves.

I can buy bearing that create a "load resistance" meaning that with weight they are harder to spin up to a certain point. What does the average MT weigh?

[John Bakker]

12 pounds

[Pipeous]

Well, I just use the great outdoors. Nitro burning indoors is dangerous not to mention painful on the eyes. I just use a curb for a monster truck and the exhaust sits over the grass/dirt so it won't drip on the driveway, and th wheels are off the ground.

all you are doing during the break in process is idling the motor in and trying to get the temperature up to 200 degrees. you need 200 degrees to heat treat the parts and seat things in. idling too rich has no benefit other than a quick wash inside. after you get it heat treated you will richen it a little and drive it around to finish the break in, then start tuning.

not the idea isn't cool, is just isn't all that practical for the application (unless you want to run indoors because you dislike outdoors, but then you are in the wrong hobby if you don't like outdoors lmao)

[FearFerretRC]

I know nitro is not a good thing to burn inside. Thats the purpose for having a tube to run outside.

As for tuning the MT inside, i think it would be easier because you can hear the changes in the exhaust easier, you can hear if its boggin out or running to rich or lean. Thus simplifying the tuning process. I might be wrong.

And as Pipeous stated the break in process to seat things into the motor and give it a good cleaning so to speak. But as for hardening or heat treating the parts, I think you may be wrong. I cant give you exact number for heat treating but I do know this, aluminum cant be heat treated, steel heat treats somewhere around 700 degrees F. Thats if I remember correctly.

What I am hoping to do is really to ease the tuning process, and when out at a bash, make retuning somewhat simpler.

[Pipeous]

sorry man. I can guarantee the 200 mark. we have had this one out in many places and technical data and crap. you want to run a motor from 200 to 250 degrees generally. this is from some of the best techs that custom build.

don't forget the long pipe you will be adding to direct the smoke can alter the performance of the muffler as well. power and such is determined by how long or short, and also how wide the piep is. you can tune a motor to different tracks by changing pipes alone.

to utilize a ventilation system, the connection would have to be quite tight so it would take more pressure etc to force the exhaust a long ways. to use a fan would be opposite effect sucking it through faster.

even something simple like a small leak in the fuel tube that feeds pressure to the tank can make a big affect on the way it runs. so ideal circumstances is to do it in a situation. tried and true methods.

to bench break in a motor, you need load so use a prop with it mounted on a stand, then put in truck to drive it later and tune it.

don't mean to burst the bubble on innovation, I just am trying to give you soe information to work out the problems with. I am not saying your design won't work even, I hope you do make a go of it. I have people show me mistakes in my ideas and it saves a lot of money if someone catches something I missed.

cheers and good luck
Barry

[FearFerretRC]

I fully understand the 200 mark as far as running temps for the motor. That I have no argument with. And as well I agree with operating temps of between 200-250. Thats what needs to be achieved in a well tuned truck.

Pipeous wrote:

don't forget the long pipe you will be adding to direct the smoke can alter the performance of the muffler as well. power and such is determined by how long or short, and also how wide the piep is. you can tune a motor to different tracks by changing pipes alone.

Excellent point. Just to clarify though, the baffle/tuned pipe will be attached to the truck. Here is the idea to over come that... the opening at the end of the tuned pipe is few hundred thousandths of an inch. So why not have something that attaches to the end of the tuned pipe at that particualr diameter, kind of like the plastic that directs the exhaust fumes now, that connects to a large, say 1.5" dia tube.

I dont think, again correct me if I am wrong, that there would be enough back pressure created by the larger diameter tubing to affect the break-in/tuning process.

Another point I think might clarify is this... the break in only needs to be done once. Intial tuning only needs to be done once. And I fully agree that fine tuning should be done in "situtation". Thats why the break in table needs to be portable.

Please keep in mind I havent started to build this yet, its all design and theory. I am hoping to gain as much knowledge about the break-in/tuning process as I can so as find if this is even going to be effective.

So thank you very much for any critisism or information, everything is helpful!

Tom

[Pipeous]

don't get me wrong. it's how my partner and I rip apart electronics. an advocate makes you think...

a wider diameter exhaust line should do it. kind of like the auto shops use.