[BAMDFISHER]

On my big Harvard, should I set up my front landing wheels with a slight TOE IN or TOE OUT.

To understand the terminolgy correctly, TOE IN refers to the front of the wheels being slightly pointed inwards.

Please correct if I am wrong.

Thanks,

Brian

[grosbeak]

Brian, I believe your understanding of toe in and toe out is correct. I also believe that toe IN is the desired condition because, sort of like dihedral, it tends to self-centre. I'm going to build a Lego test rig one of these days.

[kip51035]

I think you will find that toe out is much more beneficial. When your aircraft is on the ground with the right wing low and only the right wheel touching the ground. If the right wheel is toed in this will quickly make the condition worse and cause a ground loop. If the right wheel is toed out then the right wheel will track to the right and level the aircraft. I know this works!!!

[uberjay]

Sorry, but the norm on tail draggers (I think the Harvard is one) is toe in and to plan your landing on both wheels with wings level . Toe out will be a nightmare to handle on the ground taxi and rollout. At least in my limited experience.

I mean, what Cliff is saying about that wing down landing stance is true - it'll get you on the ground safer - but once you're down tracking will be funky. I would think it'd be better to land level, use your ailerons and rudder for cross-wind corrections if needed, and track straight on run off and taxiing.

Just my 2-cents worth... but I could be wrong :-S

Cheers,
J

[Max]

Originally Posted by uberjay

Sorry, but the norm on tail draggers (I think the Harvard is one) is toe in and to plan your landing on both wheels with wings level . Toe out will be a nightmare to handle on the ground taxi and rollout. At least in my limited experience.

I mean, what Cliff is saying about that wing down landing stance is true - it'll get you on the ground safer - but once you're down tracking will be funky. I would think it'd be better to land level, use your ailerons and rudder for cross-wind corrections if needed, and track straight on run off and taxiing.

Just my 2-cents worth... but I could be wrong :-S

Cheers,
J

No, you are right. You explained it pretty good, J. Toe-in is what you want.

[kip51035]

I have been flying R/C Models since 1964 and I have been an aircraft mechanic for 59 years. I have been using toe out for many years and there is no adverse effects at all. Go ahead and follow Max and Uberjay's suggestion and be prepared to wreck your aircraft on the first takeoff. The full size aircraft had a real bad tendency to ground loop. another thing, if your wheel is on the inside of the strut you will automatically get some toe in depending on how much twist there is in the strut. Toe out is self righting, toe in will aggravate and cause a ground loop.

[uberjay]

Hey Cliff... please, no disrespect intended on my part. As I mentioned, I've had bad experiences with toe out in terms of ground handling and -only- of models. I've not had any ground loop problems with toe in myself.

Anyway... I'll leave it alone now.... didn't mean any disrespect.

Cheers,
J

[Larry Pierce]

Hello Brian:

I would suggest that you use the same as the full scale. Each Aircraft will react a bit different.You have seen my Sea-Fury fly, it has the scale wheel off.set of 4 degrees
negative camber. In all the years of flying it has never shown any tendency to ground loop, and has always tracked straight. This model weighs 39 lbs. which may be the difference.

[Joey-snaproll]

I'm glad this topic got brought up. I to wonder about the toe in/ out. I'Ve always done the toe in. But reading forms have been told of the toe out. I have a cmp 109 to build would that be better with a toe out cause of the narrow wheel stance ? I read else were about the Fw 190 using a toe out . So I am a little confused as well . I have a few more bigger birds on the way. Want my birds to have best chance at take of. should we follow the real planes setting ? And if yes will just googling wheel setting find the angle ,or is it a deeper dig to find them. Haven't dove into that yet . Love to hear more thoughts .
It may come down to personal preference but I like to hear/ read about others trials and then can make my own decision . And what I like about these types of threads they can point to others like my self that may not have lots of time to research this stuff where to look or have the research brought to us. So. I like this topic. Thanks all for the input.

Thanks
Joe

[kip51035]

One more point to consider is binding wheels. If the wheel is too tight it will heat up and lay a layer of plastic on the landing gear. If they are too loose they will buzz and jam. Push the wheel towards the strut and turn it, does it bind? If there is room for a wheel collar, put one there. Quite often I will solder a washer at the bend so the wheel will not jam. I drill a hole in a block of wood the size of the piano wire. Sand one side of the washer and the L/G at the solder point. Then I use a 200 watt soldering iron to solder the washer in place. A good solder paste is a must. When making tail wheels I will quite often solder a washer in place to keep the wheel on. Just put a piece of cardboard between the wheel and the washer. A piece of a Corn Flake box with a hole drilled in it. Once the solder is hard just pull it out. To make the wheel run smoother I put a little silicon grease on the axel every year. It does make a difference.