[ace mcfee]

I have read a few articles on using latex paint for RC models, but would like to hear from anybody who has actually used the stuff particularly what spray equipment (nozzle size, air pressure, thinning etc) or if they hand painted how was it done (foam brush, foam roller, etc). I have build two models this winter, one of them a 1/4 scale and have used Koverall with weave filled with water-based Polycrylic. The finish is excellent and ready for paint but I don't want to go the automotive or hobby enamel route this time. Smell and overspray are the problems in my basement workshop and its too damn cold to spray anything outside these days. Any help much appreciated

Cheers

Ace

[robonline]

I used a simple Badger single action brush for this once. The trick is to use windshield washer antifreeze as a thinner. And you thin it out a lot! The paint covers well, dries fast but mine came out matt. A coat of water based poly fixed that. I was painting over fibreglass and foam. There are a lot of colours available but I could not get the black to be really black since they start out with a white base and tint it and because the stuff gets thinned out so much. Try windshield washer antifreeze. It works well.
Rob.

[ricksed]

Ace, check how to article at www.vaillyaviation.com. Rick

[robonline]

Originally Posted by ricksed

Ace, check how to article at www.vaillyaviation.com. Rick

Yes. This is where I got the idea to used the windshiels washer antifreeze.
Rob.

I have read a few articles on using latex paint for RC models, but would like to hear from anybody who has actually used the stuff particularly what spray equipment (nozzle size, air pressure, thinning etc) or if they hand painted how was it done (foam brush, foam roller, etc).

The short version, I am still learning. I have now painted two complete airplanes with latex, see pictures. Before I used latex I did some testing to see if it is fuel proof. I did extensive testing of latex paint and water based polyurethane clear coats. Not one of the water based material was glow fuel proof. I did not test for other fuels. I have read that gasoline does not attack latex. So if using glow fuel, latex paint will need a fuelproof clearcoat, I used automotive clear gloss with a flattening agentfor the P40.

there is no mystery to the ingredients. There is an additive called "Floetrol". It does not thin the paint but it causes it to flow and level out as the paint cures.

I mixed as follows: 10 parts paint, 2 parts Floetrol, 3 parts ordinary tap water.

I used a high volume, low pressure, full size spray gun for large areas and a small airbrush for trim and detailing.

The Cosmic Wind was my first attempt and is finished with a clear automotive gloss. The P40 is my second attempt and is finished with the same gloss with a flattening agent to cut down on the gloss.

That is the extent of my experience with latex. I will certainly be using it a lot more. I will gladly answer questions. There are websites around with all sorts of information. I decided to stop surfing and start painting.





Ed S

[homme de fer]

Holy crap Ed, that's nice!

Marc A.

[flysrcs]

Ed,
Next time you give latex a go. Substitute the water for windshield washer fluid. As it has an alcohol base so right after each coat of paint you can hit it with your covering iron waving it back and forth until the wet look disapears then you can give it the next coat and keep going until done. Could you post a picture or details on the auto clear and flatening agent and how these are done please.
Dave

[bobreib]

I've had good luck with a simple badger prayer and a paint/water mix. I usually spray on a coat of water based outdoor Varathane to help protect the finish.

[grizak]

I've done about 8 different planes with Latex. It works well, but you do have to go through some trial and error.

I totally agree with what Ed S. wrote above.

A few things to add:

- I've had the best results with Behr Exterior Latex (available at Home Depot). This paint seems to spray the best. I'm using a HVLP auto touch up gun for spraying and a Iwata Eclipse airbrush for detailing.

- I've found that the thinning process will vary greatly between colours. For example: low pigment colours (such as white, etc) do not require as much thinning as high pigment colours. You really need to test each colour before you start spraying it.

-I tried windshied washer fluid (blue) and I did not like it - It tinted some of my colours (my yellows became green, my whites became blue, etc). I use distilled water to thin because I found that my tap water created swirls in the paint.

-I leave the plane to dry for about 2 weeks before I clear coat or top coat. Latex takes a long time to completely dry (you can handle the plane in less than 24 hours) and you want to make sure it is set well before you clear coat it.

-Make sure to test your top coat/clear coat with latex before you use it. Some solvent based top/clear coats will react with latex. I've used several different top/clear coats. For nitro I think the best is Nelson's Hobby Clear Coat. It is fuel proof for 15% nitro with the cross linker and it works well. (Most of the planes I build are gas - so fuel proofing isn't a big concern.

Good Luck,

Grizak

[swixtt]

Originally Posted by grizak

I've done about 8 different planes with Latex. It works well, but you do have to go through some trial and error.

I totally agree with what Ed S. wrote above.

A few things to add:

- I've had the best results with Behr Exterior Latex (available at Home Depot). This paint seems to spray the best. I'm using a HVLP auto touch up gun for spraying and a Iwata Eclipse airbrush for detailing.

- I've found that the thinning process will vary greatly between colours. For example: low pigment colours (such as white, etc) do not require as much thinning as high pigment colours. You really need to test each colour before you start spraying it.

-I tried windshied washer fluid (blue) and I did not like it - It tinted some of my colours (my yellows became green, my whites became blue, etc). I use distilled water to thin because I found that my tap water created swirls in the paint.

-I leave the plane to dry for about 2 weeks before I clear coat or top coat. Latex takes a long time to completely dry (you can handle the plane in less than 24 hours) and you want to make sure it is set well before you clear coat it.

-Make sure to test your top coat/clear coat with latex before you use it. Some solvent based top/clear coats will react with latex. I've used several different top/clear coats. For nitro I think the best is Nelson's Hobby Clear Coat. It is fuel proof for 15% nitro with the cross linker and it works well. (Most of the planes I build are gas - so fuel proofing isn't a big concern.

Good Luck,

Grizak

great thread, i'm about to do the same to a Harvard TF Gold kit. subscribed!!