[aerodreamer]

Hey guys

I've successfully completed the conversion. Thanks to all who helped here.
2 PROBLEMS:
1. When i connect the 12 V starter to it, the power supply turns off. then i gotta unplug it and restart.
The PS is rated for 330watts and supplies a combined amperage of 16A on the 3.3V, 5V and 12V lines. So i dont think the amps shud be a prob.

2. I hooked up the 12V line to my transmitter so that i dont need to use the battery for the simulator. but i seem to be getting too many glitches when i do that. This doesnt happen with real receivers, only on the comp. as such the transmitters are rated beyond 12V coz they say that one can use 12V if using alkaline batteries. So i dont see whats wrong here

As for banana plugs and binding post connectors and other miscellaneous electronic stuff reqd, i'd recommend A1parts.
http://www.a1parts.com
they are reasonably priced. But do chk the price on the net before going there coz they actually bump up the tags in the shop. And tell him before paying. He'll give u the prices as seen on the site.

Any ideas on the problems??

Cheers
Pulkit

[Rob Smith]

Pulkit

Glad to hear you have the supply up and running. You don't really have a problem. These supply's can only deliver so many amps, and if you ask too much of them they will shut down, including my own. Your supply , while rated at 300W will likely only deliver 150Watts on the 12V line or approx. 12Amps. (Watts =VoltsxAmps, Amps =Watts/Volts etc.) Your starter is likely needing in exess of 12Amps to start.
http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/output_Power.htm
These converted supplies are intended to power field chargers that in most cases draw well under 10A, not starters. Congrats. on the conversion.
Rob

[aerodreamer]

Hey Rob

Ok the part about the starter is understandable. but i seem to facing something else too. I've editted my previous post. Appreciate any ideas.

thanks
Pulkit

[scaleguy]

Originally Posted by Ken Currell

Hi

I don't think they sell to the public on any day except Saturday morning.

Cheers

Ken,

Acording to Electro-Sonics website they are open during the week as well. Just regular business hours though. 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM.

The Toronto Sales Counter Pick-up Hours are 8:30am to 5pm EST from Monday to Friday. 9:00am to 2pm EST on Saturday. Closed Sundays. Call for holiday hours. (Map)

[WaldoPepper]

Hi Aerodreamer, this may not be applicable to your situation ,but to use my ATX supply for my battery charger the charger has to be plugged in to the supply before the supply is turned on. If not , it shuts down. Something to do with how it senses an overdraw when in the PC ?

Just my .02 worth

Waldo

[aerodreamer]

Thanks Waldo

Will keep that in mind

[Spitball]

Hi - for what it's worth, I've done a few power supplies and have just used a tail-light bulb (12volt) with the heavy (brake light) filament on the 3,3volt (orange - watch the thin sense wire if there is one) and the lower current filament on the 5volt (red) output. An amber bulb gives a nice glow as a pilot light and the load has usually been sufficient to keep the supply going. Each time I do one for myself, some blighter begs it off me!

[OverTemp]

A note on loads...

...I built mine after dong EXTENSIVE reading on RCU and RCGroups, and as it turns out the newer ATX power supplies do not require a load at all. Of course, everyone want their's for free, so you are likely using oldered gen power supplies.

I got mine from a new computer case (XION) I bought when building my new computer to replace the 6 year old brick I had. The case was $60 (very well ventilated case!!!) and I took out the power supply to use for RC and put a nicer power supply back in it for the computer. I believe the supply from the XION case can be had for around $15.

I modded the XION power supply with no load what-so-ever and it gives me a stable 12.24V no load and 11.98-11.99V at any current from 1-6 Amps (haven't tested higher yet). I should be able to get 16 Amps out of the 12V lines (I opted not to install any 5V lines... I would never use them). If you use an older supply and put a load on it, you are using some of the avaialble current... that's why you can't get rated output.

Some pics of my setup are below. Each 12V line is switched with a 10 Amp switch and there is a 15 Amp automotive mini-fuse between the output leads and the power supply (one fuse for all three channels together). I used very heavy gauge wire inside (at least 14... I think thicker) and used 5 of the 12V leads and 5 grounds to keep resistance and wire heat down. It runs very cool and very quiet... even with 3 chargers pulling 7-8 Amps total.

It allows me to leave 3 chargers plugged in all the time... I just switch on the one I am using. All parts are from Radioshack (The Source). I bolted it into the case and I can carry my whole charging kit around with me... 1 charger for RX batteries, 1 for ignition battery, and one for TX... great for IMAC events and electric gym flying in the winter!!!

Hope this helps someone out there.


(NOTE: XION is not the brand name of the pwer supply... it is the case it came in. I can't read the label on the power supply the way I have it mounted)

[OverTemp]

Here are the switches, fuse, and plugs wired up in a little power distribution board I made about a year before I got the power supply to modify. I had this little board plugged into a large automotive power supply and it was just used to distribute and switch power to multiple chargers. The new computer power supply I have now is much more portable than the auto one I used previously, and it provides better quality power.