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Old 06-13-2006, 06:17 AM   #11
chrispare46
 
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thanks fellas. i didn't think i would have any problems but knowledge is the best tool.and nothing wrong with askin,might learn something
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Old 06-13-2006, 08:45 AM   #12
Vulcan1
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Chris,
The advise on leaving them alone is good unless you have overhauled the carb. and have to start from scratch. Before I pull needle valves I always count the turns from being seated. This way you have a place to start when finished.
Have you ever wondered why your weedeater, lawn mower and other small gas engines have needle valves you could not adjust. For example no slots for a screwdriver or locks are in place?
John
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Old 06-13-2006, 11:11 AM   #13
Ramz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan1
Have you ever wondered why your weedeater, lawn mower and other small gas engines have needle valves you could not adjust. For example no slots for a screwdriver or locks are in place?
John
My guess is warranty issues. You'd get people trying to tune them without having the proper information on how to tune it. The motor wouldn't work right and they'd probably tell 20 people that Brand X weedwacker is garbage.
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Old 06-13-2006, 11:23 AM   #14
ronm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan1
Have you ever wondered why your weedeater, lawn mower and other small gas engines have needle valves you could not adjust. For example no slots for a screwdriver or locks are in place?
John
My guess is warranty issues. You'd get people trying to tune them without having the proper information on how to tune it. The motor wouldn't work right and they'd probably tell 20 people that Brand X weedwacker is garbage.
I think his point was that the motor runs fine for the life of the tool, without ever having to change the factory setting.
We expect a little better performance for our engines, so a little tuning can be expected.
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Old 06-13-2006, 11:36 AM   #15
Ramz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramz
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vulcan1
Have you ever wondered why your weedeater, lawn mower and other small gas engines have needle valves you could not adjust. For example no slots for a screwdriver or locks are in place?
John
My guess is warranty issues. You'd get people trying to tune them without having the proper information on how to tune it. The motor wouldn't work right and they'd probably tell 20 people that Brand X weedwacker is garbage.
I think his point was that the motor runs fine for the life of the tool, without ever having to change the factory setting.
We expect a little better performance for our engines, so a little tuning can be expected.
My Husqavarna weedwhacker is about 12 years old and still going strong...after 1 carb kit and a plug change. The carb has to be adjusted about every 2 years though to keep it working correctly. I'm probably the exception to the rule though.
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:40 PM   #16
Barman
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Don't be afraid to to adjust it, it's just an engine. Mine ran like
crap (burbling) until I adjusted it. The low end took a lot of leaning
before it cleaned up. I picked these instructions up of the net somewhere and they work like a charm.

Barman


"To adjust the low end:

Lean low needle til you have a crisp transition after idle for 10-15 seconds, then turn a little more lean when it starts to "hesitate" or even die when you goose the throttle to full for 2 seconds, then back it up until that hesitation disappears.

Then always reset your high end after you adjust the low end...

Check the RPMS... adjust leaner until the RPMS peak then start to drop slightly... back up until you have about 100 rpm below peak. If a new engine, 300 rpm below peak.

Watch head temperature... you don't want more than 200... and 180-190 is ideal.

Once you have these three things in the groove you can fly with full confidence...

Don't be in a hurry... take your time and let the engine sit off for a few minutes between tests. Start the engine and let idle for about one minute to warm to temp before each test.

Cut the engine, make the adjustment and again let it sit for a couple minutes, start, wait for a minute then proceed with your next test.
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Old 06-17-2006, 10:47 AM   #17
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hmmm im dr jesso now well! if it runs out of the box doesnt quit leave it alone till it has some time on it. it should be spitting some black goo at the start on the non synthetic oil prolly will be adjusted like this at the factory. da engines are run at factiory i would imagine. after it been run a while twidling will be easier. a tach is handy not overly neccesary unless ya want to be right on for the last bit of power. its just a two stroke gas engine with a walboro carb. simple to adjust lots better at setting them than me though
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Old 06-17-2006, 11:04 AM   #18
ronm
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DA engines are run at the factory, and set for break-in.
Some fine adjustment may be needed as it breaks in.
Two I have had needed only about 1/8 turn to the lean on the low needle after a couple gallons.
The high needle I never touched...both engines ran great!
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