[spitrc]

What a disaster.
I have been building model aircraft for years and used krylon paints to paint over the iron on covering and for the trimming and cowl colors.
Just picked up one can of white and three cans of the red Krylon to repaint a Hanger 9 Fokker D7. Painted the red and the top of the wing with the white. let it dry in my heated shop for the24 hours as recommended on the can. Next day masked off to put on the red stripes.
also wanted to put a second coat on the tail and masked that off for the white stripe.Nothing but wrinkles,wrinkles, and more wrinkles in the paint.
pulled off the masking tape and the paint came off with it as well.
So, went online and behold. Found out that Krylon has changed their formulas on the paints and others had similar problems.
I think the 24 hours between coats is inaccurate. They say under ideal conditions in the lab.
Maybe 7 days between coats or more might work. Just can't take a chance.
Never going to use Krylon paint again. can't risk such a disaster.
No solution but to strip and recover the wings. Going back to using Tremclad or other "rust paints".

P.S. I do like the Tremclad Non-yellowing clear coat.

Your comments and experiences are invited.


Old style can is in one picture. New style red and white in the other.

[JKovats]

Hi Larry; Sorry to hear about your troubles. Thanks for the input. I am an old dope guy and have just started painting with acrylic latex.

How is the Tremclad clear for fuel proofing with glow. I haven't made a "clear coat" decision yet until I find someone who has had something work for sure.

[spitrc]

I found the Tremclad "Clear" just last year at CTC.
Looks like what I want in a clearcote.

1. Oil based.
2. Non Yellowing
3. UV resistant

rust type paints have a polyester base and I use it for boat paint.

It was the non yellowing and oil based that caught my eye the most.
I like to seal my monocote seams with it and other products have always
turned yellow on me.
Larry

[CHEVPRO]

A lot of the paints are changing from V.O.C's to water base. Takes much longer to dry properly.

[JKovats]

Hi Larry;

Thanks for the info on the clear paint. You didn't answer the fuel proof for glow question. Does it work as a fuel proofer or haven't you yet tried it with a glow engine?

[insomniac]

I bought some paint from crappy tire to do a repair on my snowmobile hood and had the same problem it krinkled as well. I asked a buddy of mine in the auto body trade what the problem was he suggested that the newer paints are low voc and require more prep work on the priming stage, I primed the repair with some tremclad primer I had, sanded it then blended the paint it went on real nice then it flashed and krinkled real bad.
I ended up letting it dry and hitting it over and over again till it looked half decent, I let it dry, then wet sanded and polished it, I wasnt happy with the end result, I wasted more time on this due to the low voc paint

Does it state on the Krylon cans if it is low voc?? This could be the problem.

[spitrc]

Originally Posted by CHEVPRO

A lot of the paints are changing from V.O.C's to water base. Takes much longer to dry properly.

Here is what I found when I searched online.
The Indoor/Outdoor paint is an alkyd enamel

Larry
-------------------------------------------------------------------

7/7/2011 2:22:43 PM [Agent Note]

XXXXX,

Thank you for contacting Krylon. I am sorry to hear about your experience with our products.

The Interior Exterior Paint was lacquer based. This line did not have a critical recoat window as lacquer based products can be recoated at any time. This line has been discontinued. The Indoor/Outdoor paint is an alkyd enamel that has a critical recoat window which means that each new coat needs to be applied within one hour of the previous coat or it is necessary to allow the previous coat to cure completely prior to applying additional coats. The full cure time for this product is 24 hours under ideal, lab tested conditions of 77F with humidity at or below 50%. Higher humidity and/or lower temperatures will delay the cure time indefinitely until the paint environment more closely matches the lab testing conditions.

Applying additional coats of product outside of the recoat window or under unfavorable conditions will cause wrinkling to occur when a new coat is applied. This will be noticeable only after the second coat is applied and is not considered faulty product due to the fact that there are no issues with the first coat of the product.

To correct this issue, allow the paint to fully cure out under ideal conditions. Sand the surface smooth with 220 sandpaper to remove any wrinkling until you achieve a smooth, uniform appearance. Sanding often exposes more uncured paint, therefore, I suggest allowing another 24 hours of cure time after sanding to allow the exposed paint to cure out completely as well. Clean the sanding dust from the surface to ensure there are no contaminants, rinse and let dry. Apply a new coat of the product according to the label directions and recoat as necessary as outlined above.

If a clear coat is desired, you can use the lacquer based, Crystal Clear after the color coat dries for at least 48 hours under ideal conditions. Lacquers and alkyd enamels are technically incompatible, but some have success applying this clear coat with multiple, thin coats after 48 hours. The ideal clear would be the Low Odor Clear, a water based clear coating. This can be applied after the color coats cure for 24 hours under ideal application conditions and is suited for both interior and exterior applications.
I hope you found this information helpful. If you have any additional questions please email me back.

Sincerely,

XXXXX
Krylon Product Support

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

[spitrc]

Originally Posted by JKovats

Hi Larry;

Thanks for the info on the clear paint. You didn't answer the fuel proof for glow question. Does it work as a fuel proofer or haven't you yet tried it with a glow engine?

I am having a memory lapse on that one today. I think so but may need help with the answer as i have been flying Gas lately .I' m going to use it again for glow this year. It is my clearcoat on this "FOKKER' D7
but not till spring. I noticed it is available in Gloss,semi, and flat.
as I said before it is oil based and I think you will find that only "rust paints"
remain as a choice. Most others are changing formula.
I used to use a varathane clear but all i find is "water based".

I have managed to get the top wing done with just peel marks from the masking tape now showing the red through the white.
I sanded it down and used some old paint I had here.
Debating on if I should leave it that way. Kinda looks more "scale" for a WW1 to not be perfect.

Larry

[spitrc]

Originally Posted by JKovats

Hi Larry;

Thanks for the info on the clear paint. You didn't answer the fuel proof for glow question. Does it work as a fuel proofer or haven't you yet tried it with a glow engine?

Originally Posted by insomniac

Does it state on the Krylon cans if it is low voc?? This could be the problem.

Just all the usual about not swallowing it or breathing it, ETC.
More about that than how to use it.
Still contains lots of dangerous stuff !
Larry

see pics.