[gixerfien]

Hey guys,

Got started on this finally a few nights ago..only had them since middle of december

I picked up 2 of these as a xmas present for my dad, so we had something to build over the winter.

We built a hobby shed outside so were busy getting that ready till now--STAY TUNED FOR THAT THREAD




This is my first ever build thread but I'll try my best I'm open to suggestions

Gonna start it off by showing some pics of the things going in this badboy and a few things I used for the build.

I picked up a "rc screwz" kit as it came highly recommended as the little tiny screws in this kit are really and strip breathing on them.

Also grabbed a set of MIP drivers. Picked up a 0.9mm and a 1.3mm. Really hard to find these dimensions anywhere else, and they're suppose to be the best so I decided to splurge.

The alcohol is to make sure all the screws are cleaned before they get Loctite.

Using nothing but the best loctites, greases and oils

And lastly, putting a Tarot zyx-s in her with a Spektrum DSMX sat.

My dad's is running on a DX8 and I'm running on the brand new DX9!!!!

Loving the DX9 by the way

[gixerfien]

I have the updated version with the new esc that got the BEC updated on it to deliver higher amperage. All these new FBL controllers and better servos that are out these days are drawing more power now than everything use to. People were getting brown outs and having their system reboot during flight causing a crash. Plenty of people had to add a separate in-line BEC or replace the esc totally till align went ahead and updated it. The newer one is the P version, the esc is now blue instead of yellow.

I have one of these 2 in 1 power meters and used it to check how much power the servos actually draw. Wanted to make sure they're within range of the updated BEC. I was also curious in case I wanted to upgrade the esc down the road. If I decided to ever go ALL OUT than the yge look pretty nicee and in the middle of the price range between castle, yge and kontroniks. I seen a couple set ups with a kontronik on the older 250 SE flybarred versions which sounded sooo amazingly smooth on the headspead throughout 3d routine, but the smaller kontronics have not been updated and their BEC is underpowered IMO.

Anyway...back to the DATA.

So all three align ds415m's with 1 ds425m plugged into a spectrum ar600 RX are pulling just a hair under 2amps when I go nuts on both TX sticks giving it the most load it would ever see. After everything is built, maybe I'll plug her in again and see if that load changes between the bench to having a head, swash, and links all hook up to them.

[gixerfien]

WOW was this thing ever a pain to get working

I plan on putting a mini vbar in this little gunner at some point but since I dropped a nice chunk of coin already buying 2 of these kits and a DX9 all in same day, I decided to go with the tarot zyx-s because it was cheap and had decent reviews. I figured it would be a pain to set up the first one, but if it turned out to work decently then I would have an inexpensive gyro to use in machines I didn't care to put a vbar in.

It took me almost a week messing with these things to get them to work. From getting them to connect to damn win8, to getting them to bind using a sat rx, and then getting ALL the channels working correctly in the software.

In the end, I got them both running with the sat's while showing dsm2 mode on the TX screens. I couldn't get them to work on dsmx mode no matter what I tried. I spoke to a guy out in B.C. that said his were running on dsmx mode so I dunno. When I grab a second unit, I'm going to get on the phone with him while we try to get it working in dsmx.

My unit came loaded with 4.01. The zyx-s only has so much internal memory. When they made this update, they included options to be able to use this unit on a quad or a plane. When they added these features, there wasn't enough internal memory to keep the satellite bind process. So what you need to do is downgrade the firmware to 3.5. Bind it all up in 3.5, and then update the firmware back to 4.01. The bind will stay with the update. I though it was kind of stupid when I first was told that's what had to be done but I guess it's nice to be able to use this unit for a plane or quad project down the road too. I wanna try it on a plane at some point.

The dx8 is set to dsmx-2 in the software, while the DX9 had to be put on dsm2-3 in the software for all the channels to work correctly. Must be something with the channel mapping between the DX8 and the DX9.

I bought a Bluetooth adapter for it aswell, but got it to work first on the usb. With all the tinkering I had to do to get the unit to even work, I was just happy it was working. I'll mess with linking up the Bluetooth at somepoint this week after i'm done building.

[gixerfien]

I feel like these kits leave a lot of unanswered question. I'm waiting on a response back from the owner of RC screws so I will update this thread once I've received the info.

I feel that all these questions should have been included with a little paper insert or something explaining the kit a bit better

The questions I had about the kits were:

1st. I've noticed how there are screws in the kit of the same dimensions which have a different sized head on them. If there are 2 screws that are the same size except for one head being bigger than the other, how do I know which places get the smaller head and which places get the bigger
head??

After thinking about it a bit, I assume its one of 2 things. Either the smaller heads are to replace the button heads, and the larger heads are to replace the existing socket heads. Or I was thinking that 1 of the 2 different sized heads might match the same size allen driver as the one I'm taking out.

2nd.There is a note in that link which references to another kit(600 EFL), quoted "All wood type/coarse thread screws are replaced with the correct diameter machine thread screw and will re-bite into all plastics."

I'm under the impression that self tapping screws would be the same thing

So on the 250, for the spots where it has self tapping screws on places that bite into plastic. There's a bunch on the frame like the servos mounts, where the battery mount is, the bearing blocks....etc.

Am I suppose to use the originals or have they been replaced by the correct size machined thread screw as well?

3rd. There is a fair amount of washers in the kit, where am I suppose to use those?

I only see reference in the manual, to a few washers being used. All of which are different sizes that are provided in your kit. So I'm not sure what they're meant for.

4th.Are the countersunk screws meant for the main gear because the ones in the kit don't sit down as nice into the hub as the originals do. But I don't see them anywhere else being used in the manual??

5th.And are the long set screws in the kit meant for the canapy mounts, they're only 6mm vs the stock 10mm. Is this because they're stronger or are they wrong and they should be longer??

[gixerfien]

I think I might have some drivers off a bad run or something..at least I hope so, as these drivers are highly praised.

Both mine and my dad's don't work. The 1.3mm won't even go into the stock screws and the crappy align one that comes with the kit fits nicer in the stainless screws than the mip does. The .9mm won't even go into anything

I'm gonna get ahold of MIP and see what they say....



It almost seems like everything was holding me up doing this build.....

[gixerfien]

Finally...onto the build

I haven't heard back from RC Screwz yet and got the answers I needed. So I went with the theory of replacing the screw with the same size allen head and hoping that the machine screws bite the plastic. I will change anything later if needed after I hear back from the company.

Step 1 actually starts on page 5 in the manual, but for all extensive purpose, I am going to refer to page 5 as page 1/step 1 threw this guide as this is really where the build starts in this manual

When building step 1, I found that you really had to watch how the washers sat in the grip, otherwise the blade grips wouldn't move freely. I made the mistake of loctiting the first bolt on the feathering shaft, and then placing into the first blade grip. Then placing that grip and the shaft threw the main rotor housing and attaching the grip from the other side.

Doing it this way caused a washer to not seat properly in the grip and was off center. Which lead to the grips not being able to turn nice and freely.

I had to apply heat and break the Loctite seal, back off that first screw and use 2 1.5mm wrenches and tighten them both up at the same time after it was all together.

So essentially, the above steps are correct as long as you make sure you leave that first screw loose still.

I also replaced the head dampeners right off the bat to these green Trueblood ones. I read the stock ones were garbage and to use these. The stock ones feel like silicone wire sheathing while the truebloods are stiff as hell!!

[tporter416]

I ended up with two extra screws and 2 extra washers, found everything was used for the most part. One thing that I did not like, the manual references a supplied glue for gluing the pinion to the motor. This used to be included, however they don't include the glue anymore. I ended up using CA to attach my pinion to my motor.

Tom

[gixerfien]

Originally Posted by tporter416

I ended up with two extra screws and 2 extra washers, found everything was used for the most part. One thing that I did not like, the manual references a supplied glue for gluing the pinion to the motor. This used to be included, however they don't include the glue anymore. I ended up using CA to attach my pinion to my motor.

Tom

Ya I noticed that too, neither of ours came with green Loctite. Either way, I don't use the crap that comes with it. I have my own.

Green Loctite is what you were suppose to use on the pinion

[tporter416]

Originally Posted by gixerfien

Green Loctite is what you were suppose to use on the pinion

I researched what to use and found that CA is commonly used. I even asked my LHS for the green loctite, they said to just use CA and save my money. If my pinion falls off I will let you know, however so far so good...

[gixerfien]

got all the balls on the swash all loctited in. Along with installing the dfc arms.

Has anyone else noticed when you tightened up the machined bolt which holds the dfc arm into the blade grip. How much play there is left between the arm and the grip. Even though the bolt it tightened down as tight as it seems it would go.

It's almost like there's not enough threads on the bolt where I put a blue arrow which doesn't allow it to tighten up to where it needs to be.

I have read of people just leaving it while others backed off the screw a few times and re thread it till it threaded in deeper.

I left mine as it was because like I mentioned, it's as tight as it can go in there the first time. While my dad used the method the thread it in deeper reducing the amount of play.

His still moves just as freely as mine does, so I think this may be the way to go. I'm most likely going to remove mine and redo it.

I included a photo showing exactly where I meant.

WHAT DID EVERYONE ELSE DO