[Dale Hunter]

First determine if your axles are imperial, or metric (most ARF's are metric).
Cut a bushing out of brass to fit over the axle. Then cut a second bushing the next size up. This usually is held tight with friction, becoming a brass sleeve for the floating bushing.
Drill a 3/32 hole through the end of your axle, to install a split pin.
File a shallow flat spot to stop your wheel collars from rotating. This is the usual method of holding wheels in place. Tip: don't file to deep, your collar grub screws may not have the depth to match your grip.
Add the wheel, with a flat washer both sides, second collar. Then simply cut, and split your split pin.
Locktight your grub screws. Lubricate your brass after you are complete.

Hope this helps.

This example was done on 5mm Axles, Aeroworks 100cc Extra 260.

-Dale-



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[Dale Hunter]

The last of the photo's
-Dale-



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[wingburner]

Nice Dale!..

[Dennis 9412]

Hi Dale:

Is the hole through the wheel the same size as the larger tube, or slightly smaller for a friction fit?

Regards,

Dennis

[Dale Hunter]

Dennis, If you drill the hole the same size as the tube. 7mm in this example, depending on the hub material it may grip the brass. Which is fine (the goal), therefore creating a brass bearing surface inside the hub.
The free floating brass between the hub, and axle becomes a bushing. With a drop of lubricant, last several years.
I started doing the two tube bushing mid 90's on 40 size glow. Just followed me as my models grew.

Picture a 46% 50lb Ultimate Biplane dropping a wheel in flight. No thank-you.

-Dale-



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