[Mike Biedul]

Sorry Guys. The price I quoted was for Amyl Nitrate, not MEKP.... MEKP is not so expensive, but has other objectionable properties. I'm trying to find that Diesel Power Plus locally - no luck so far though. Thanks again -Mike Biedul

[tractorboy30]

does anyone no how to make the mix as im new at the diesel world here and would like to make my own fuel

[Mike Biedul]

Yes. Typical measures are one part ether, one part kerosene or diesel oil, and one part castor oil. One third each. A booster agent is what we have been talking about here, which should be used in a quantity of two to five percent above the other ingredients. Some people use synthetics instead of castor, or a mix of castor/synthetic. There are of course variations on the formula. I have a brand new current production MVVS 2.5cc diesel that specifies FAI fuel ( rules based racing class that includes restrictions on fuel) that is 45% ether, 30% kerosene, and 25 % castor. Davis Diesel in the US, suggests 35% ether for 1/2A ranging to 30% for larger engines, with much smaller castor (22% 1/2A down to 6% in larger engines), with kerosene making the balance, and 2% booster (hexapropyl nitrate or isopropyl nitrate). The ether component can be hard to get and can be expensive. I'm finding amyl nitrate - the traditional booster - to be unobtainable. It is extremely volatile and unstable but more importantly it is used as a stimulant by some popular cultural minorities in bedroom games. Though not technically a controlled substance in Canada, it is just not avaialable to regular citizens. Some people turn the automotive starting fluid containers upside down and let out the sprayed propellant, as you would clear the nozzle of a paint can. They then pierce the can with something non-ferrous like a copper nail - to avoid sparking - to drain out the ether. Ether is extremely volatile and will evaporate away in a very short time. Diesel model fuel is not obtainable in Canada commercially: hence all the home brew. In the US, Davis diesel and Red Maxx market diesel fuels already mixed, so if you are driving back from the US you could bring yourself some. The problem is that the postal service and the couriers (UPS, FEDEX etc) won't carry this stuff, but they will ship inside the US under OR-D specification. In any case, diesels are not so popular in North America. I learned to like them in Germany in the late 1950s. They are still popular in Europe, though declining. As I said, I just bought a new MVVS engine, and PAW (Progressive Aero Works) in the UK makes a wide range of diesel engines. The famous makes from 20-30 years ago were Taifun and Webra, Enya in Japan. In 1960 I had a Webra .19 with ball bearings, an RC throttle, and a modern muffler, way ahead of most glow designs of the period. It idled like a Singer sewing machine. They typically swing a much larger prop than glow, though at decreased rpm. Probably more than you wanted to know eh? I'm enclosing photos of a couple of extremely small displacement diesel engines I have. -Mike

[tractorboy30]

wow thanks for the info Mike and wow they are vary small and vary cool can't weight to try this out thanks Frank

[TLyttle]

I quit glo in 1968, never looked back, diesels and electric since (except for my rubber power stuff.

The big confusion is trying to figure out how much ether is in starting fluid: in the US they mark the amount on the cans apparently, but not in Canada, hence any use of starting fluid is strictly a guess. I keep mixing until the engine runs right!

I don't have anywhere near as many as I used to (no longer collecting), but I find they are so reliable as to never need replacing.

[Mike Biedul]

You can in fact buy pure ether. I bought a four litre bottle. It was over $100, but at least I know what it is. I agree with TLyttle, the stuff that comes out of the starting fluid cans is mostly ether, but who knows what else. My temperment is that I am very bothered if things can't be repeated exactly, so I am pretty scientific about mixing fuel and that has to include the purity of the ingredients. That said, you can get going with diesel for very little money if you use a can of starting fluid on sale at Canadian Tire....An easy way to start in diesel is to get one of the Davis Diesel heads to dieselize something like an OS or Thunder Tiger .10 in the GP series. I think .09 through .25 engines are best suited for diesel. Just my opinion of course. There have been some very interesting diesel experiments with un-modified 4-stroke engines using a Lenova cell in place of the glow plug to adjust compression, but that's another subject altogether. Best of luck to all. -Mike

[TLyttle]

Man, don't I wish that I could buy real ether...

My experience with Davis has to do with busted cranks etc, but others have other experiences. Engines built for diesel seem to work best, and there are lots of truly great motors available. Best value in diesels IMHO, and lots of variety; I have a PAW55r/c that runs and idles great, and my buddy is waiting patiently for his PAW60r/c. Do not try to wear one out, I haven't succeeded in 35 years.

[Flypaper]

Used to be able to buy amyl nitrate at the drugstore. Used it to slow down the burn rate to keep from breaking rods and cranks. Something like high test gas. Tried a Davis Diesel head on a Royal 25. About a quart of fuel through it and saw bubbles at the bottom of the crankcase. Split it from front to back. I guess the Davis Diesel fuel didn't have amyl nitrate in it either . Still have a Frog 50 and a Webra 2.5 racing diesel, rear rotary valve from the 60s.

[TLyttle]

Yeah, heard similar stories re glo conversions.

I finally sold my ED 2.46; still had the box. I was 2nd owner, and that best flew everything I could build for it, and, strangely enough, it seemed to run a bit better every time it flew. It was bought by the 1st guy in 1951, and I only sold it a few yeas ago. I bought a "clapped" ETA team race engine from a guy, and it was way plenty for sport flying, did everything I asked of it, also now gone.

Buy a diesel that is built as a diesel! Can't go wrong...

[Mike Biedul]

TLyttle: You can buy ether. Mine is from Anachemia Canada Inc, in Montreal. Thjey should be able to give you someone in your area that can order it in for you; I used a gem/rock/jewelers supply shop. Their part number is 37964-540 and is also marked UN-1155. It is reagent grade, guaranteed 99 percent or better. It is called anhydrous ether or diethyl ether. There are minute amounts of titrable acid and carbonyl. As I said, I paid over $100 for it, but at least I know what I'm getting. Not so with the starting fluid cans.