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08-12-2015, 10:07 PM | #1 |
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Fibreglassing a Sig Mark II
Hi fella's! I've recently built a Sig Mark II and I'm considering glassing the entire plane??? Really for no other reason than to get some practice. I built a Top-Flight GS Corsair last winter but lost my nerve when it came time to cover and shelved it. I'm quite proud of the build and want it to look as good as possible.
Does anyone know if the Mark II will come out too heavy if I glass it with 1/2ounce cloth on the fuse and tail and 3/4ounce to 1ounce on the wings?? Also...any engine suggestions to help with any added weight would be appreciated as well. I've been away from the hobby for 20+ years so please forgive me if I'm asking stupid questions! Other then "trial & error" this site has been my only hope of getting back off the ground! Thanks all!!! |
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08-16-2015, 12:32 PM | #2 |
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Re: Fibreglassing a Sig Mark II
If you are only practicing, why not cover a dummy wing or fuse?
I would use 1/2 or lighter to cover as you are not adding strength but a surface for finishing. My TF P47 was covered with light fiberglass and wpu. Sig Kadet mk2 I would cover with film as it is a trainer. Cheers, |
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08-16-2015, 04:05 PM | #3 |
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Re: Fibreglassing a Sig Mark II
1/2 oz cloth is more than enough, it's not required for strength, especially on a trainer, so lighter is better. It's for ding resistance, and painting. Totally agree with Marc, practice on a made up wing/fuse, doesn't even have to look like a plane. There's lots of videos as well on youtube, that can steer you in the right direction, not to mention Dave Platt's videos. If you're using the Kadet as a trainer, to get you back into the game, keep as light as possible, cover with film, and make up practice pieces for the glass work. Should be some experts in your club as well, that can help out.
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08-16-2015, 05:46 PM | #4 |
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Re: Fibreglassing a Sig Mark II
Guys, you're assuming it's a Kadet MkII. It could be a Kougar MkII or even, but less likely, a Komander MkII.
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08-16-2015, 07:22 PM | #5 |
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Re: Fibreglassing a Sig Mark II
True, lol and I wouldn't glass any of them! Good for hangar rash protection I guess, but certainly not needed for strength. I do get the idea of a test plane, but I'd do test pieces first, then a sport plane, before tackling the big warbird.
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08-17-2015, 09:16 AM | #6 |
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Re: Fibreglassing a Sig Mark II
Thanks for the input fella's! I feel kinda foolish now for not considering practice on mock-up pieces! lol. I did think tho, that a positive side-effect of the "glassing" practice would have been a stronger plane.
I'll heed your (much appreciated) advice, and cover the kadet with film. Thanks guys! |
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08-17-2015, 11:20 AM | #7 |
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Re: Fibreglassing a Sig Mark II
Ah, so it is a Kadet. You would have to cover the wings with film anyway. Fiberglassing is not meant for open structures.
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08-17-2015, 11:41 AM | #8 |
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Re: Fibreglassing a Sig Mark II
MB,
Consider getting a digital kitchen gram scale, if you don't already have one. The Starfrit one that Canadian Tire sells comes on sale around Xmas for $11-12, has a total capacity of 11 pounds and an accuracy to 1 gram.... other digital kitchen scales with the same 11 pound/single gram accuracy very probably use the same guts.... http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/kitche...tml?popup=true There are lots of good build threads on the various forums discussing how to use 0.75 ounce fiberglass as a covering of sheeted surfaces, including your Top Flite GS Corsair (on rcuniverse for example). There is definitely a learning curve in avoiding excessive weight gain. I think many find the .50 ounce fiberglass too flimsy to handle.... but if you intend to use both weights I would use the lighter stuff on the wings as I would want to keep the outer wings as light as possible for flying performance. good luck,
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08-17-2015, 12:52 PM | #9 |
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Re: Fibreglassing a Sig Mark II
Also the weight really starts to pile on when you fiberglass because you have to paint.
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08-17-2015, 12:58 PM | #10 |
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Re: Fibreglassing a Sig Mark II
Weight is weight and doesn't really matter if on wings or on Fuselage. The amount of weight added is more in how the epoxy is applied to the cloth; and painting. If the airplane is built light in the first place then you can allow a few oz added in finishing . I use 1 oz to 1.5 oz cloth on my aircraft and find that the weight added really is not that much over film in the grand scheme of things. Yes it is heavier but much more durable. I believe the weight comes as much from painting if put on too thick.
To apply my cloth I do the first part with my finishing resin thinned with about 25% alcohol add a bit to the containeras it evaporates. This is basically to apply the cloth to the wood. Let this set up until cured. The next coat is full strength applied to the cloth covering to fill the pores and here is where you can get the added weight down by scraping off the excess with your wife's credit card (lol) so as to just fill the weave and not have puddles. The finish should not be shiny as this indicates puddling ; this is not wanted. Best way to really practice is on curved surfaces. Prime and sand almost all off then a very light prime to just barely cover and then your paint with light colours first and darker over next. I try and paint the areas where I want the light colour to remain and barely spray the areas on which I will apply darker colour later... if that makes sense . That way minimising a thick layer of say white and another layer of say red overtop that way you end up with two thick layers. If the trim colour is very small won't matter that much. This is just my way and works well for me but you will get other opinions as each person has their way of doing theirs. |
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