Hey guys,

Hope it's cool I post a new thread in here.

Anyways, I could use a bit of a guiding light for helping me break in my new nitro motor. This is the first REAL good nitro motor I've ever had and want to do it properly. I've had a bunch of crummy rtr motors and engine break in was never an issue. I want this one done by someone who has been there and done that with higher end motors. I was out at Joe's last weekend and I saw a lot of real fast nitro guys out there.

It's an O.S. VZ-B V-Spec .21 and it hasn't had a drop of fuel in it yet. I'd love someone to help me through it and give me some tips on tuning. Let me know what your time is worth. More than willing to shell out some cash for some knowledge. I know the crowd at the track is extremely friendt and helpful too, s I thought I'd ask here.

Thanks fellas!

[MikeZ]

I would go to the local hobby store that you bought the engine at and get advice from them. You bought it from them so that you could get such assistance and if anything should be manufactured incorrectly they will help you out.

[Mac]

Where are you located?

Originally Posted by Mac

Where are you located?

Just outside Hamilton in Stoney Creek.

And I bought this motor online through a classified thread. My local hobby shop is Joe's, so that's what I'm posting here.

There's a few good break in methods I found online, with the heat cycling method seeming the most effective, but there's so many differing opinions, it's hard to trust what method.

P.S., I saw your thread about the day in the dirt at STF. If it wasn't so far away, I'd be in for sure on that.

[Dreaming rc]

make sure the carb is tight.and cylinder head is tight.. fire it .. it should run.. leave it on starter box for 2 to 3 tanks.. idling.. then run it around on the street for a few quarter throttle burps.. let it cool then do it again.. follow the manual for the break in ..now adays the manual is up to par.. this time of year when its cool its good to run a little bit rich..my engines allways last.. about 8 gallons.. there is alot more to it then this.. but it works for me.. i could never tune a motor on the starter box had to go to a track or school yard..maybe somebody else could tune in...

[Gump]

Being a V-Spec, the pinch will be SUPER tight at first. so tight you might not be able to turn it over.
Heat cycle methods are widely accepted. Just try to keep the engine in operating temperature range at all times while breaking it in. You're looking for around 220f.
Pre heat the motor - always. This will allow it to turn over easily without excessive strain on the conrod and crank pin. A competition Heat engine warmer will be your BEST FRIEND and is worth every last cent. It will do the job perfectly every time.
Run the motor at idle for a few tanks on the box. use the warmer to keep the motor around 220. 200 to 240 is an acceptable range. 220 is good. If you have to take it off and put it back on to keep the temp stable, then do so. Or you can wrap rags around the head. Just try to keep that temp fairly stable.
After a few tanks, put it on the road and start to drive it around slowly. Use rags or the cover for the warmer to keep the temps up. Should be belching smoke and spitting fuel. As you go through more tanks very slowly and gently increase the rpm you run at and lean the motor an hour at a time on the top end. you will have to adjust or remove rags or covers to maintain the right temps. After about 8 or 9 tanks you should have it at the point where your running with no rags or covers and should be close to the right temp and closer to the proper needle setting. you should ALWAYS see the smoke coming out of the pipe.... no smoke = too lean.
After you run it around for a couple more tanks (up to 10) you should be able to completely stretch its legs for slightly longer and longer bursts. Should be ready to race tune at around 11 or 12 tanks.
You will need to preheat for the mechanical pinch for the first 3/4 gallon for sure. But its always a good idea to preheat, even when its old. it just makes the motor last longer.
the pinch goes away quicker in v-specs than other motors. However, that being said, they will run very well on what seems to be significantly less pinch than other motors.
Always run the OS P3 glowplug in this motor. I know they're expensive, but they are worth the price because they are the right plug. If its super hot outside, like 35 degrees or something silly like that, use the P4.
my last piece of advice is make sure to use a premium fuel. go to the track. ask around whats good and whats supported locally. a good fuel will offer more ease of tunability, more stable idle, will likely run a little cooler for a given power band and will still lubricate the motor properly to make it last long. 30% nitro content is very popular in north america. The oil content varies between brands. some as low as 6% oil (usually synthetic). some race fuels go as high as 12% oil. any higher is not usually popular.

[imported_tire_tec]

Gump, is Bang on.
I have a few gallons on a V-spec but realized it is way to much motor for me.
Side note only adjust the High and low speed needles. DO NOT ADJUST the MID needle. I bought my v-spec from a lad who could not get it to fire because he mistook the mid for the low speed

[imported_Tomasb]

+1 on GUMPS advice.
Or you could also visit Average Joes on a practice day and there would be plenty of racers willing to help you out, Offroad racers are the nicest guys (pay no attention to the yelling on the drivers stand LOL)
All you have to do is ask, that's how I and many started and that's why I'm still here racing.

Goodluck

Originally Posted by Gump

Being a V-Spec, the pinch will be SUPER tight at first. so tight you might not be able to turn it over.
Heat cycle methods are widely accepted. Just try to keep the engine in operating temperature range at all times while breaking it in. You're looking for around 220f.
Pre heat the motor - always. This will allow it to turn over easily without excessive strain on the conrod and crank pin. A competition Heat engine warmer will be your BEST FRIEND and is worth every last cent. It will do the job perfectly every time.
Run the motor at idle for a few tanks on the box. use the warmer to keep the motor around 220. 200 to 240 is an acceptable range. 220 is good. If you have to take it off and put it back on to keep the temp stable, then do so. Or you can wrap rags around the head. Just try to keep that temp fairly stable.
After a few tanks, put it on the road and start to drive it around slowly. Use rags or the cover for the warmer to keep the temps up. Should be belching smoke and spitting fuel. As you go through more tanks very slowly and gently increase the rpm you run at and lean the motor an hour at a time on the top end. you will have to adjust or remove rags or covers to maintain the right temps. After about 8 or 9 tanks you should have it at the point where your running with no rags or covers and should be close to the right temp and closer to the proper needle setting. you should ALWAYS see the smoke coming out of the pipe.... no smoke = too lean.
After you run it around for a couple more tanks (up to 10) you should be able to completely stretch its legs for slightly longer and longer bursts. Should be ready to race tune at around 11 or 12 tanks.
You will need to preheat for the mechanical pinch for the first 3/4 gallon for sure. But its always a good idea to preheat, even when its old. it just makes the motor last longer.
the pinch goes away quicker in v-specs than other motors. However, that being said, they will run very well on what seems to be significantly less pinch than other motors.
Always run the OS P3 glowplug in this motor. I know they're expensive, but they are worth the price because they are the right plug. If its super hot outside, like 35 degrees or something silly like that, use the P4.
my last piece of advice is make sure to use a premium fuel. go to the track. ask around whats good and whats supported locally. a good fuel will offer more ease of tunability, more stable idle, will likely run a little cooler for a given power band and will still lubricate the motor properly to make it last long. 30% nitro content is very popular in north america. The oil content varies between brands. some as low as 6% oil (usually synthetic). some race fuels go as high as 12% oil. any higher is not usually popular.

Thanks to all you guys that PM'd me, and replied. It's guys like you that make this hobby what it is, and the fact that you're all so willing to help is awesome. And Gump, man, that was great of you to write that entire thing out. If I ever run into you at any tracks, let me know what you're drinking... I'll pick you up a six pack of it.

I've been looking into heaters the last 2 months or so, and I'm still undecided if I should go for the 12v or 110v model.

Originally Posted by Tomasb

+1 on GUMPS advice.
Or you could also visit Average Joes on a practice day and there would be plenty of racers willing to help you out, Offroad racers are the nicest guys (pay no attention to the yelling on the drivers stand LOL)
All you have to do is ask, that's how I and many started and that's why I'm still here racing.

Goodluck

Thanks Tomas. This is why I'm here. To get all the advice I can get from all you guys.

Thanks again, fellas. You're input is much appreciated. Think I might fire this thing up on the weekend now!

[Guest]

Originally Posted by Archetype

I've been looking into heaters the last 2 months or so, and I'm still undecided if I should go for the 12v or 110v model.

Go for the plug in one....lol...i nothing about electronic`s, i`m guessing 110 v ??

That is awesome of you Gump, to go that in depth, great read.

That`s one thing you will see in our hobby, everyone pretty much helps out others. Vineland is my home track, hopefully i`ll see you there.