[Struts1]

Originally Posted by Trumpetman

The last thing you would want is a mess of uncured epoxy on a wing panel

Been there done that and at one time, almost lost the whole project but Composites canada helped and saved Connie project back 2009.....so yes mixing equal amounts or recommended ratios are very important, I learned it hard way but would never forget it...

[Struts1]

Originally Posted by cravenjw

Might work. Never tried. The west system pumps are designed to be left in the can as far as i know.

I would save your pump money and your alcohol money and invest in a good scale, if you don't already have one.

For me its far simpler to pour the two parts into Dixie cups on my scale.
For big batches i recycle my endless supply of Tim Hortons cups!

If you do it by weight, ideally you should use a gram scale. Unless you are do huge batches, a kitchen oz scale is a little dodgy!

Note, the proper weight ratios are not the same as the pump volume ratios. So have to read the cans/bottle, they will list both the volumetric and weight ratios for prop mixes.

PS West System does have a fantastic free eBook on epoxy and glass and techniques, etc. Definitely worth getting and reading even if you don't use it.

Thanks John for sharing your experiences with us, i will be getting west systems or System three laminating epoxies for my Concorde project in this week and will go to Composites Canada once again....

[grosbeak]

Originally Posted by cravenjw

John,
I am looking at your pic. Looks like back end has a guide wire. Does front guide wire have a spring mechanism?

Hi John,

Yes, that's a wire guide on the back that restricts the skis to about 10º up from the horizontal. That's a good picture of both skis - this is a better picture of the tension line on the front.



As you can see, the tension line holds the skis at that 10º angle in flight so that the trailing edge of the skis touches first on landing. The slack wire is a back up in case the high-tech shock cord (read: hair elastic) fails in flight.

[cravenjw]

Originally Posted by grosbeak

Hi John,

Yes, that's a wire guide on the back that restricts the skis to about 10º up from the horizontal. That's a good picture of both skis - this is a better picture of the tension line on the front.

...

As you can see, the tension line holds the skis at that 10º angle in flight so that the trailing edge of the skis touches first on landing. The slack wire is a back up in case the high-tech shock cord (read: hair elastic) fails in flight.

Thx, mini bungee cord! I like it.
I was thinking of using silicone fuel tube like some on the guys on here were doing for their tail wheel steering springs. But it's not a elastic as bungee, and in the cold it even less elastic.
I am planning to have the cables/springs go to the holes in my cf gear that are already there for cuffs. My skiis are a little bigger 21"x 3". Ill need something a little bigger than hair elastics, but a trip CT should yield some bungee that I can use.

[grosbeak]

Thanks for all your input - I'm good to go.



I'll be back to the ski build shortly.

[4*60]

Those pumps stayed accurate for me with literally years between use, just sitting in the epoxy.

[Nick Milligan]

I've never had an issue with the pumps either. I do lightly press each till I see a bit of liquid at the spout beforehand though. I'm not sure if it helps but it makes me feel good.

[Cross Check]

Hi John,

The skiis are looking great !

To make the West pumps last longer, plug the spigots with a dowel. Make sure you mark the plugs resin/hardener. It keeps the resin/hardener from thickening in the spigot, which can affect the ratios.

A suggestion for glassing the bottom of the skiis. Get some clear laminating mylar plastic 1in bigger than the ski, sign shops usually have scraps. It should be flexible as a sheet of paper to go around the front curve. Wax the plastic. Clamp the ski bottom up. Wet out the glass layup (I would use 2or3 layers of 1oz.cloth), then lay the plastic on top, starting from the back, using a (credit card) squeegy to prevent trapping air bubbles. You can see any bubbles through the plastic. They can be worked out to the edge with the squeegy. Let it cure, then peel off the plastic. Only sanding to do is around the edges...

Make sure of your temperature and ventilation before mixing the resin.

I lost count of the hundreds of gallons of epoxy I used boatbuilding.
I am now allergic to epoxy and polyester resins...

Good luck with your project.
Thanks for taking the time sharing it with us.

Take care,
Have fun,
Dave'crosscheck'Fallowfield
Maac 6437
Unabashed Combat Team

[goneflyin]

Originally Posted by Nick Milligan

I've never had an issue with the pumps either. I do lightly press each till I see a bit of liquid at the spout beforehand though. I'm not sure if it helps but it makes me feel good.

Yes this is the key here.
I have old pumps, and they work just fine.
The epoxy is really fantastic stuff though, penetrates wood more than I've seen before.
Just did a fiberglass layup on my canopy hatch project, and it went nicely.
I've used the filler powder a number of times for places that you want a thick paste. Works great.
Without the filler, the epoxy is very runny.

Don

[grosbeak]

Originally Posted by goneflyin

Yes this is the key here.
I have old pumps, and they work just fine.
The epoxy is really fantastic stuff though, penetrates wood more than I've seen before.
Just did a fiberglass layup on my canopy hatch project, and it went nicely.
I've used the filler powder a number of times for places that you want a thick paste. Works great.
Without the filler, the epoxy is very runny.

Don

The literature specifies that the pumps must be primed before use and potentially after a long idle period, so that's what I did and will continue to do.

My basement must be pretty cold because I found the epoxy pretty thick... so much so I'm thinking of thinning it with 99% IPA for the next application.

Originally Posted by Cross Check

Hi John,

The skiis are looking great !

To make the West pumps last longer, plug the spigots with a dowel. Make sure you mark the plugs resin/hardener. It keeps the resin/hardener from thickening in the spigot, which can affect the ratios.

A suggestion for glassing the bottom of the skiis. Get some clear laminating mylar plastic 1in bigger than the ski, sign shops usually have scraps. It should be flexible as a sheet of paper to go around the front curve. Wax the plastic. Clamp the ski bottom up. Wet out the glass layup (I would use 2or3 layers of 1oz.cloth), then lay the plastic on top, starting from the back, using a (credit card) squeegy to prevent trapping air bubbles. You can see any bubbles through the plastic. They can be worked out to the edge with the squeegy. Let it cure, then peel off the plastic. Only sanding to do is around the edges...

Make sure of your temperature and ventilation before mixing the resin.

I lost count of the hundreds of gallons of epoxy I used boatbuilding.
I am now allergic to epoxy and polyester resins...

Good luck with your project.
Thanks for taking the time sharing it with us.

Take care,
Have fun,
Dave'crosscheck'Fallowfield
Maac 6437
Unabashed Combat Team

Thanks for the tips - I've already gotten started with 1/2 oz cloth - you can pick up the thread at post 89. Note the safety items - gloves, ventilation, respirator.