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Old 04-24-2006, 05:14 PM   #11
POWLING
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does the team stuff come with the right labeling?....i want some werks fuel but i cant get it becasue its banned in ontario
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Old 04-24-2006, 05:56 PM   #12
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Fastcats apparently has some Steve
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Old 04-24-2006, 05:57 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by POWLING
does the team stuff come with the right labeling?....i want some werks fuel but i cant get it becasue its banned in ontario
Apperently Fastcats in Oakville has some Werks fuel in stock.

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Old 04-24-2006, 06:09 PM   #14
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i heard fast cats has some....
jamie why no show at niagara? the Xray drivers seem to be scared of the mud! showed up by two TTR's and two HPI's....tiss tiss tiss
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Old 04-24-2006, 07:07 PM   #15
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Werks is not banned in Canada its available at Fastcats and check the video of niagra powling me and jakfrost had more time in the mud than anyone for the whole last season i aint skerd
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Old 04-24-2006, 08:33 PM   #16
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Hey Powling, I didn't see you out there either! LOL! I wonder how the cleaning is going for those that did run? That clay is like concrete when it dries! My shoes are like cinder blocks.
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Old 04-24-2006, 08:39 PM   #17
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rick......i guess by racing in the mud and racing with 3 wheels (TRIPOD!) is makeing 1/8th sclae get faster!

garreth.....i was too busy marshling and almost falling over....plus its a TTR.....i was afriad the dirt might hurt it!
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Old 04-24-2006, 09:05 PM   #18
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Now back on subject....
the ctb is a different blend of aditives and oil
The "pink" 30/8 is the last test batch before final prodcution values were set... but it is different. The oil is very different in the ctb.. but that is a secret..

I also like it.. and found little difference between the two.. a little higher temps on the pink.. but I do like it.. nothing a little re-tunning won't fix..

Steve.. the ttr isn't afraid of the mud.. oh my..
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Old 04-24-2006, 11:53 PM   #19
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i was one of the brave souls who braved the mud and glad to say the only one who stopped running in working order... came home and took off the electronis and motor and power washed everything else and then soaked it with wd40... still have to clean the engine though... the head was so full of mud you can't see the glow plug
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Old 04-25-2006, 12:19 AM   #20
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sounds like i missed a mud-bog!

a note on tuning the mid range - 2-Stick Tom helped me on this one.
he said its the last one you adjust. Always tune your motor with a brand new or known good plug. Don't bother tuning if your plug coil is grey or black. Shiney slivery newness is your friend.

First adjust your high-end needle so that you have reasonable temps and good top end, but its a MUST to see some smoke while making the pass. No smoke is bad.
Once the high end needle is set, you bring it in from a highspeed pass, stop right in front of you and let it idle. Most motors should idle high and then run down to low idle after about 3 to 5 seconds or so. If it dies out after 5 seconds (immediately after it transfers from high idle to low), adjust the idle set screw (not the idle MIX screw) so that the throttle is propped open a bit more. Do another high speed pass and repeat. Let it idle down and see where it lands after a few seconds. Readjust the setscrew as necessary.
At this point, if your idle mix screw is too rich, it will load up with fuel and die out after 8 to 10 seconds, or it will load up with fuel and bog hard when you accelerate away. If it dies out after 8 to 10 or bogs on accel after 8 to 10, then lean it out a bit and repeat the high speed pass (make sure the temps are up), stop, idle, wait 10 seconds and accel hard. If it bogs again, repeat untill it no longer bogs on accel.
Now the mid screw is the easiest of all. Do a high speed pass and make sure the temps are correct. Then do a pass for 6 to 8 seconds at about 1/3 throttle. After 8 seconds at 1/3, nail the throttle and note the response. If it bogs, lean it out the mid range screw a little bit and repeat, making sure to bring the temps back up before retesting. You also want to see some smoke when you do this. Repeat and lean it out untill the bogging stops. Don't continue leaning after the bogging stops... in fact, maybe richen it just a fraction to be on the richer side, once the bogging stops.
A note for tuning, and this was passed on to me from none other than Mr. Ed Wong - ALWAYS tune on a perfectly clean air filter, because if you tune on a dirty one, and replace it for a race, you'll be sucking more air and will therefore be running lean.
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