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11-14-2008, 12:32 PM | #1 |
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Factory needle settings
Many times in these engine threads, one refers to "factory settings" of the needles both high and low. These settings are not intended to be "absolutely correct" in any way. These settings are an arbitrary point (usually quite rich) chosen by the manufacturer so that the engine will in most cases will run. The needles are NOT adjusted anywhere near the optimum point before shipping as most engines are NOT run before shipping. The factory settings are a good starting point to return to if the needles have been so far misadjusted as to make the engine inoperable.
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Lead, follow or get out of the way! Last edited by Arceenut; 11-14-2008 at 07:12 PM. Reason: correct spelling |
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11-14-2008, 01:27 PM | #2 | |
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Re: Factory needle settings
Quote:
Just wondering why you felt it necessary to make this statement on needle settings??? Perhaps someone was giving you a hard time about how to set up the needles or you read something that bothered you?? There must be a reason!
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Time flies like an arrow - Fruit flys like a banana!GROUCHO MARKS Stoney Creek Hawks RC MAAC No. 43659 |
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11-14-2008, 02:02 PM | #3 | |
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Re: Factory needle settings
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11-14-2008, 02:37 PM | #4 |
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Re: Factory needle settings
i know where your comeing from. i live up north at nearly sea level been into nitro for 15 years and almost every motor is set to lean for my altitude. i am constantly dealing with fellow new comers who have broke in there motors like there book says by leaving the setting the way they are, then they lean the mix more and run numerouse tanks lean and hurt the motor. then they all seam to get my name from someone and bring them to me to tune. then i run it set the needles and about 50 % of the time i have to tell them there brand new motor needs a rebuild. factory settings are guidelines and should never be trusted i allways break in by temp gun moitoring and tune by feel and smoke.
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11-14-2008, 04:15 PM | #5 |
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Re: Factory needle settings
Thanks Arceenut. I figured it would be just nice to know WHY you made the post! You are absolutely correct in your assumption!
I find factory settings very rich, especially for 4 stroke engines! And even with engines of the exact make and size, no two engines will have the exact same settings, to have them running perfectly, once broken in! The needles have to be set somewhere for a starting point so rich is the best place to start. When fine tuning an engine, I find a tach a very valueable tool to have. Once the engine is broken in, and I have the low speed set for smooth idle and transisition, I run the engine at full throttle, slowly turning in the high speed until it just peaks at max. RPM. Then I back the needle off for a drop of approx. 300 RPM. Then just a little tweak of the low speed again and your good to go. Some will argue that you don't have to back it off the RPM but realistically thinking, the engine will normally lean out as the tank empties during flight. That 300 lower RPM provides a safety margin preventing engine damage as the engine leans. All it takes is one lean run of 3 or 4 minutes (or less) to totally destroy a brand new piston and sleeve! Ask me how I know that!! You want to test it out, set your highspeed for max RPM, start your engine, and pickup your plane and point the nose skyward. Watch how fast the engine grinds to a hault because its now running tooooo lean! Better still, NO, don't do that! I'm just making a point! And if you're generally flying at the same location, get your needles set properly and then, unless there is an obvious need to adjust them, just LEAVE THEM ALONE! It just drives me crazy how some guys will forever and always be fiddleing with their needle settings. ARGGGG! Needle settings are another reason I just love gas engines. Take the time and do a proper break-in, spend more time fine tuning and tweaking the needle settings and then you can almost forget about needles. Very seldom you'll see guys with gassers, fiddleing with there needles. With gassers its like "Plug and Play" or "Set it and Forget it!"
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Time flies like an arrow - Fruit flys like a banana!GROUCHO MARKS Stoney Creek Hawks RC MAAC No. 43659 Last edited by Gary Maker; 11-14-2008 at 04:21 PM. |
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11-14-2008, 06:27 PM | #6 | |
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Re: Factory needle settings
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When you come over for your racing stuff I will explain "Bladder" tanks to you. At 150mph I do not want an engine going leaner and leaner and an airplane getting progressively tail heavy. ED S |
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11-15-2008, 12:48 AM | #7 |
Re: Factory needle settings
As always, G M has very good points and its very well written. I also scratch my head at our fellow "tweakers" I do my best to get around , events, visits ect. but it is a rare ocasion to see me tweaken the needles, while Im no stranger to dead stick landings its always the same, weather its my lawnmore, wead wacker or BBQ, Im always ot fuel. I usualy only adjust the low end a couple of times over the period of run in and the only thing I differ from Gary is if I tweak the low end I do the high end, If for some reason only the high end is required I would bother with the bottom. I have no doubt my engines run no better than Garys so what ever it takes, once you have it you got it and if you have to tweak all the time,,, something else is wrong. Maybe ??
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11-15-2008, 10:11 AM | #9 |
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Re: Factory needle settings
But there are plenty of fellows that think turning the needle 3 or 4 full turns is a "small" adjustment
AJC
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11-15-2008, 10:42 PM | #10 |
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Re: Factory needle settings
Thanks Ed, but yes I do know what a baldder tank is. How many guys do you know outside of your pylon group that use bladder tanks? Well, unless you are into pylon racing or turbines, I doubt many have even heard of a bladder tank or would even be bothered if just for sport flying.
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Time flies like an arrow - Fruit flys like a banana!GROUCHO MARKS Stoney Creek Hawks RC MAAC No. 43659 |
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