[Lash]

I have emailed you some things and if you can wait until maybe Friday, I will send some pictures on what this thing looks like apart and how to set the gaps etc. After that it's pretty easy.

[scott H]

when reinstalling the magneto and coil the space between them should be about the thickness of a businuss card hope this helps.

[bear57]

Ben:-
It has been some time since I cranked over a Quadra 35 or ripped up my knuckles on one but here are some of the things I learnt. I agree with the previous method of flywheel removal. You can use a metal hammer BUT use a block of wood between the prop adaptor and the hammer. Never metal to netal. To remove the prop adaptor, remove the spark plug, move the piston to the bottom and insert some 1/4" rope into the combustion chamber. Then turn the piston against this rope and turn off the prop adaptor. This sounds crude but is an accepted proceedure. On the 35 standard threads apply. Not so for the Q50, however.
For gaps I use an ordionary business card. One thickness for the flywheel/coil spacing. Also one thickness for the point gap.
The non point engines are harder to start because to get enough spark you need to turn the prop the equivilent of 500 RPM. Point types don't need that speed. The one muffler(not the pitts type) appears to be for something other than a Q35.
The book previously mentioned is a real help. It will "walk" you through this engine nicely. On most of these engines there is a fair amount of crankshaft end play and slop. Any one expecting a fine machined piece of machinery is going to be disappointed. However, they helped make giant scale possible and after 25 years or so are still going strong. They are still excellent value for the dollar.
Lorne

[benjhind]

Okay, thanks so much everyone for all of your help so far!

We are all aware that I know nothing about gas engines, so please forgive me for dumbing this down to my level.

Please correct me if I have misunderstood. In the picture below, the green circle shows the "points", and I want those to be one business-card-width apart when the piece in the red circle is at its highest point on the crank?



Thanks!

Ben

[kersplat]

Originally Posted by benjhind

Okay, thanks so much everyone for all of your help so far!

We are all aware that I know nothing about gas engines, so please forgive me for dumbing this down to my level.

Please correct me if I have misunderstood. In the picture below, the green circle shows the "points", and I want those to be one business-card-width apart when the piece in the red circle is at its highest point on the crank?



Thanks!

Ben

You want .020 gap on the points when they are opened, rotate the crank shafr until they open. Loosen the screw by the points and adjust the gap to the required width. The gap between the flywheel and the armature coil should be anywhere between .007 - .012. This will give you a good bright spark with little effort.

[kersplat]

Originally Posted by benjhind

Okay, thanks so much everyone for all of your help so far!

We are all aware that I know nothing about gas engines, so please forgive me for dumbing this down to my level.

Please correct me if I have misunderstood. In the picture below, the green circle shows the "points", and I want those to be one business-card-width apart when the piece in the red circle is at its highest point on the crank?



Thanks!

Ben

You want .020 gap on the points when they are opened, rotate the crank shaft until they open. Loosen the screw by the points and adjust the gap to the required width. The gap between the flywheel and the armature coil should be anywhere between .007 - .012. This will give you a good bright spark with little effort.

[benjhind]

Thanks very much for the help everyone.

After a lot of reading, I've gapped the points with a business card as suggested, and have also spaced the flywheel and coil the width of a business card apart.

After reassembly, I can't get a spark. I've tried disconnecting the ground (in case the kill switch wasn't working), and tried two different plugs. I've tried hand-flipping and a starter. I've tried turning off the lights in case the spark was faint.

I'm wondering whether there is anything I can test, or anything else I can do to test this thing. I'm hoping I don't have a dud, but who knows.

I've taken a photo of the coil, since the wire looks a little poor here, and I'm wondering if there is anything wrong here.



Any help is appreciated!

If this thing is a dud, where can I get another coil?

[scott H]

maybe you have done this but you have to have the metal side of the plug touching the engine so that it is grounded. when turning the engine over for spark. also make sure the kill wiire is not grounded. the spark may be faint so dont do it in a well lit area.see if you have spark at the point also. if not could be a bad condeser thats the cylendrical silver thing near the pointswith one wire coming out of it. or a bad coil .

[scott H]

also i should add i see in the last pic on the crank threads looks like old jb weld make sure the threads are clean before using a little new jb weld while installing the prop hub back on you dont want that coming loose.if you cant get it to spark and you have come this far i woud let a small engine guy look at it to see what you need. scott

[benjhind]

Hey Scott, thanks again for the tips. One question: How do I check for a spark at the points? Doesn't it need the flywheel on to make the spark?

Thanks,
Ben