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12-10-2004, 04:31 AM | #31 | |
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Re: Twisting Your Wire
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It's called a B&D Firestorm 14.4V Cordless Drill! No haven't seen what you are talking about.
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12-10-2004, 10:56 AM | #32 |
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One more of the advantages of the higher end Hitec servos is that the wires come already twisted.
There are so many folks flying larger aircraft these days, many who are regulars here on RCCanada. What do you fellows do if anything for the long leads in your aircraft? I love electronic gadgets but I hate spending money on things if they are not totally necessary. Plus the more things you add, the more that can potetionally go wrong! There have been a number of good suggestions already made but what are some of the big guys actually doing in their large aircraft and what IS actually necessary to do for such things in these large aircraft?
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12-10-2004, 01:10 PM | #33 |
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battery leads
Hi guys,
Should we also be twisting battery leads as well? Sometimes we need to move the battery quite a distance to balance, and consequently need long leads there also. Any thoughts? Dennis
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12-10-2004, 08:49 PM | #34 | |
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Re: battery leads
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12-11-2004, 08:14 PM | #35 |
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This is an interesting topic for me as I am planning the wiring on a sailplane with 8 feet of wing on each side and four servo's on each wing. It is common to use 9pin PC connectors at the wing root so when the wing is plugged in you are "wired". I found some running common heavier power wires and then the signal wires. I have heard that it is bad to have leads the same length as the antenna.
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12-11-2004, 09:06 PM | #36 |
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My sailplane wings are not that long but I use the sheilded cable and connect it up like the drawing.....the long leads are therefore sheilded from unwanted signals. Seems to me if you do it this way the long leads are isolated and cannot pick up RF. This effectively stops noise from spark ignition systems from bothering the receiver system. The multi-pin connector at the wing root is the only connector that I use.....all others are direct soldered.
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12-18-2004, 11:44 AM | #37 |
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I just got back from Mesco our local electronics store. I bought 50 ft of wire which i think is Beldon wire. It has the two conductors, one bare, plus the foil shielding all wrapped in a ext. sheath. Plus the wires are twisted about one twist per inch. It weighs 1oz per 4.5 feet and has 7 strands per wire. It cost 10 cents a foot so I got 50 feet, should do a couple of large models
However on Raymac's diagram I am not clear on his servo end connection, how can the neg continuity be kept if the bare wire is clipped? |
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12-18-2004, 12:01 PM | #38 |
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You will note on my drawing that the cable is THREE CONDUCTOR.....plus the bare wire which is soldered to the neg. conductor at the receiver end. I do know that you can use two conductor wire such as you have but, of course, you would not clip the bare wire, in this case it would be used as neg. conductor. While both systems will work I suspect that the first would provide for better sheilding from RF interference. My electronics knowledge is not that good.....perhaps someone can clarify that.
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12-18-2004, 04:40 PM | #39 |
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Yes I think u r rite about the RF. I had went looking for just wire, but in your post on pg 2 it says 2conductor wire. I will go Monday to look for the 3wire stuff. At least I have shielded wire for my lights! Also initially I was thinking of using separate power wires and running the signals separate but now I am tempted to use the Beldon wire and gang the power at the connector.
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12-18-2004, 04:49 PM | #40 |
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I think I have a 75m reel of that wire in the garage, (I sell that kinda stuff), I'll check later, and anyone who wants some can have a piece.
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