[Guest]

Originally Posted by robpreston

Hi guys:

I'm thinking about getting into Electric's but I would like to know more about it before I start buying.

For ex
* what do all the codes mean?
* what ESC works best with whitch motor.
* what size battery and flight time's

you know the do's and don'ts..

Is there a web site that I can go to in order to learn more....?
instead of going to Hobby King and not knowing what I'm looking at. weather it's good or not or if it's compatible ...

Thanks for your help !

Probably one of the easiest way of getting into this aspect of the hobby is to pick up one of the ARF or near-ARF kits that abound.

Depending upon what you currently fly and what you want to fly and how much effort you want to put into building and setting up an airplane, there are lot of choices.

If you can expand on what your background and flying experience is, we can make suggestions as to what will fit in with what you want.

Currently, the hobby is not as settled as it is for IC engines -- it's a fluid combination of flying style, planes, props, types of motors and their parameters, battery types and capacity, speed controllers.

If you're familiar with spreadsheets and how changing one value can affect everything else, then that's what electrics are like.

For example, if you've been flying trainer-types, then the electric NexStar as used by the TEMAC group here in Toronto is a good setup. You're looking at a .45-sized setup that doesn't cost the moon and adding more battery packs is easy.

[robpreston]

well I guess the best way to describe my flying style would be 3D so I would like to know what I'm up against in the electrics.
but down the road I'm looking at getting into Heli's Electric but I would like to build one from a kit..

[Flypaper]

Just to give you a ferinstance, Rob. I've had a Twist 3D 40 for about 4 yrs. coming up. One of my bigger electrics. The plane comes with parts in the kit for glow or electric but is very light as in most electrics. Just by coincidence many electrics measure the diameter of the motor as part of the part #. The brand I chose was a Himax. Part# 5018-530 The Twist popular motor in glow is a 46 sizes motor, so you see where we're close to the 50MM dia of the Himax. The 530 on the end of the motor# is the KV # which means RPMs per volt. I'm using 6 cells at 4.2 volts per cell gives you 25.2 volts for power at 13,356 rpm. That's with little load so the usefull RPM is lower than that. Probably closer to 12,000. If I remember right, the amp draw on the motor is about 50 amps max, so you'd prop it to draw a little less than that. Think I was drawing 47 amps max. Use an ESC that is capable of putting out more amps than the motor's max amp draw. I think I'm using an 80 amp one. Batts are 6 cells of 3700 ma.20 C Rhinos from HK. This will be the fourth yr. for them. This is where you need to look at the C rating of the batt. which means they are capable of handling 20 times their capacity which is 3700 times 20 which , of course, is 74 amps. So you can see the batts are not even working hard, and why they've lasted. Another adition is a UBEC. This stands for Universal Batt. eliminator circuit. Many ESCs don't have enough amp output to satisfy the RCVR and servos, especially digitals. This hooks up to your motor batt.and draws from it, so you don't have to carry two batts. This will give you a little insight into what your in for Any more questions, just holler that's what we're here for.

[robpreston]

You know flypaper, your right..
It does get confusing when some one throws all those #'s at you or even if you reading it. This is the reason I'm asking the Questions.. and I thank you for that... I was once told" there is no such thing as a stupid Question" just stupid answers...lol

[Flypaper]

As I say, don't hesitate to ask. We all went through this at one time.

Gord.

[Daren71]

Originally Posted by Flypaper

Just to give you a ferinstance, Rob. I've had a Twist 3D 40 for about 4 yrs. coming up. One of my bigger electrics. The plane comes with parts in the kit for glow or electric but is very light as in most electrics. Just by coincidence many electrics measure the diameter of the motor as part of the part #. The brand I chose was a Himax. Part# 5018-530 The Twist popular motor in glow is a 46 sizes motor, so you see where we're close to the 50MM dia of the Himax. The 530 on the end of the motor# is the KV # which means RPMs per volt. I'm using 6 cells at 4.2 volts per cell gives you 25.2 volts for power at 13,356 rpm. That's with little load so the usefull RPM is lower than that. Probably closer to 12,000. If I remember right, the amp draw on the motor is about 50 amps max, so you'd prop it to draw a little less than that. Think I was drawing 47 amps max. Use an ESC that is capable of putting out more amps than the motor's max amp draw. I think I'm using an 80 amp one. Batts are 6 cells of 3700 ma.20 C Rhinos from HK. This will be the fourth yr. for them. This is where you need to look at the C rating of the batt. which means they are capable of handling 20 times their capacity which is 3700 times 20 which , of course, is 74 amps. So you can see the batts are not even working hard, and why they've lasted. Another adition is a UBEC. This stands for Universal Batt. eliminator circuit. Many ESCs don't have enough amp output to satisfy the RCVR and servos, especially digitals. This hooks up to your motor batt.and draws from it, so you don't have to carry two batts. This will give you a little insight into what your in for Any more questions, just holler that's what we're here for.

Very well put, excellent description. Daren

[Flypaper]

Glad it helped a bit. Had to wet my throat with a beer after that.

[Guest]

Gord, you get a big hairy thumbs-up for that answer!

A working and practical example of what Rob was aksing for.

I got started in eledctrics much the same way -- getting overloaded in what-if analysis until one of the other electric guys sold me a working airplane -- just add my radio, charge and fly. THat got me through my first year of e-flight and I'd gotten enough base knowledge to make a decision for the next model to do.

Now, I've got five kits under way simultaneously plus stepping back to a basic trainer to get some serious stick-time in early in the season (starting a round of Formosa racing so I need to refresh my basics to get smooth low flights without wasting energy in turns.)

[robpreston]

Ok guys:
Thanks for you help. so what does
BESC stand for :
and OPTO Brushless ESC stand for:
and Plush:
with Flypaper's description I now know what UBEC stands for (thanks )
see this is the sort of thing That I would like to find out.

[moo]

Hobby City has forums where people discuss product and setups, RC Groups has links to some good plans.