[John M.]

+1 on the tight wrapping of the joint.

Appearance and stregth can be improved with heat shrink tubing.

[Guest]

A couple wheel collars can be used to join the 3 control rods together. This method is often used by folks that don't have the proper tools to get the metal hot enough to solder.

[volksman]

i didnt see the stainless part, another soloution heavy thread, or kevlar thread, epoxy and ca

[kip51035]

I use a 200 watt iron for joints like this. Wrap it really close like whipping rope and use heaver wire for the wrap. Put lots of solder paste on the joint first. Like they said clean it.

[Flypaper]

What works for me is Staybrite soft silver solder. Not sure whether CTC sells it but you can get it from any welding suppy store. The flux is acid and will work on the stainless and piano wire, where ordinary flux will not bond as you've found out. Give it a whirl, I'm sure you'd be satisfied with it.
By the way, wash off under a tap and the acid will be washed away. That would take a lot of heat, relatively, so I would use a weller gun.

[grosbeak]

Since I posted this problem on multiple threads late last night there's been a great response. I couldn't possibly do what everyone suggested, so I had to look through the replies to come to my own conclusions. I'm very pleased with the results.





So what did I do differently?

- Coupled the threaded rod to a push rod and soldered to the pushrod
- Configured the three push rods in a triangular stack instead of a "flat pack"
- Sanded and tinned all three push rods before assembly
- Sanded the copper wire and wound with pliers instead of fingers
- Assembled, wound and soldered in a vise instead of in the airplane

I used the 60-40 Kester solder with a little of the Kester flux. This time it flowed into the gaps perfectly; I (a) heated a spot with the iron for a few seconds, (b) applied solder to the joint about 1/4" away, (c) moved the iron over 1/4" inch, and repeated.

Thanks for your replies - I learned a lot!

[Max]

Originally Posted by grosbeak

Since I posted this problem on multiple threads late last night there's been a great response. I couldn't possibly do what everyone suggested, so I had to look through the replies to come to my own conclusions. I'm very pleased with the results.





So what did I do differently?

- Coupled the threaded rod to a push rod and soldered to the pushrod
- Configured the three push rods in a triangular stack instead of a "flat pack"
- Sanded and tinned all three push rods before assembly
- Sanded the copper wire and wound with pliers instead of fingers
- Assembled, wound and soldered in a vise instead of in the airplane

I used the 60-40 Kester solder with a little of the Kester flux. This time it flowed into the gaps perfectly; I (a) heated a spot with the iron for a few seconds, (b) applied solder to the joint about 1/4" away, (c) moved the iron over 1/4" inch, and repeated.

Thanks for your replies - I learned a lot!

Nice! Looks good, John. Glad to see that it worked out for you, and thanks for sharing your solution.

[Flypaper]

Yep, Looks like a pro job.

Gord.

[John M.]

I'm gonna send you my stuff to solder amigo!

[Guest]

Can't wait to see him do Deans ends.