Fasten a cowl from the INSIDE - Page 2 - RCCanada - Canada Radio Controlled Hobby Forum
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Old 04-26-2008, 07:51 PM   #11
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Looking at the photo again, If you are using the cowl that came with the kit, make a round ring that mounts to the fire wall with a hole in the center for the engine and mount to fit through. Make the ring with four tabs that protrude out from the ring and line up with the cowl tabs. ( try and picture a Twoony with the center punched out and add four tabs on the out side) Sorry Does that make any sense? This way you will have plenty of ventilation. Sorry again for babbling.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:20 PM   #12
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Re: Fasten a cowl from the INSIDE

Len

Here are the pictures of my B25's cowls.

Sorry it took sometime to post the pictures as i said i would do earlier, so let us know if its going to work for you or you have taken another route at this step.
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:05 PM   #13
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Re: Fasten a cowl from the INSIDE

Thanks.

I really don't want to go the ring/tab route as I think it will in effect block too much of the air flow-thru. As long as the epoxy/glass/right-angle tab will hold to the cowl, it will be minimal airflow blockage.

I'm gonna go with the tab only route as posted earlier in this thread.
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:13 PM   #14
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Re: Fasten a cowl from the INSIDE

I just started to read this and maybe could reccomend a fastening that I have used before. I bend 3 pieces of piano wire (16") with one end that has a clearance for a 4/40 screw. From that part I bend an L with a couple of flat kinks in the straight piece. This part I use epoxy and glass to mount them on the inside of the cowl. If possible mount t nuts on the rear of the firewall for installing the bolts. If you use allan head 4/40 bolts with a washer you can then hold the cowl on without blocking the airflow. Dubro makes a long ball hex driver for the bolts and you can get in some tight spots.
Hope I explained this right.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:47 PM   #15
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Re: Fasten a cowl from the INSIDE

A little more background: I was trying to come up with a way to do this because of my cooling solution as seen in the pic. You'll see that the front of the fuse is "cut off" at about 45o to allow more air to escape. I wasn't sure if the block method as called for in the plans would work because of this.

With any luck I'll get to try these various methods shortly and I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

I may end up just expoxying "triangled" blocks to the back of the supplied blocks and gluing them to the angled front end. It will achieve my goal and still provide a solid base.
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