[Rocketboy1030]

I have the reputation of bringing Dr Frankenstein to the EDF section of our club. your battery selection 'C' is too low. I will fly this arrow with 60 C plus, two separate ecs's , use better batteries!

[Dutkoski]

I used two 40 amp ESC's, Turnigy Delux and two 4 cell 2200 mah battery setups of two 2 cells each, they were Turnigy Nano-Tech batteries, 35 to 70 C rated. They were able to produce the advertised power at the stated amp draw from RC Lander. The amp draw for these nice EDF's is stated as 28 amps, which is what I found. I tried using two 30 amp ESC's, but they didn't allow the EDF's to generate the power. Jumping up to the 40 ESC's solved the problem.
I also tried using a slightly higher capacity single 4 cell battery with a high C rating, but the twin battery setup performed better.
I used the two 2 cell setup simply to have the batteries mount flatter inside the intakes. Also more air flow around the cells. This seemed to work really well for the first season but the Turnigy batteries now puff up. Once back home, I'll be purchasing some new 2 cell Venom batteries as replacements.
The system I'm using now is the RC Lander 64 mm EDF, produces more power than the combined twin 50 mm and as a bonus, the entire system with the Venom battery weighs less.

[Rocketboy1030]

Should I add CF rod to rudder.. or is the updated rudder strong enough after glassing?

[Dutkoski]

It should be fine, however, when you cut out the rudder, remove another strip of foam from the fin and replace it with 1/4" thick medium grade balsa. Then sand it flush if you think it needs the support.

On mine, I gambled and did not. The fin and rudder appears sufficently stiff when the 3/4 oz. fiberglass cloth was applied.

Having the airfoil really made the vertical fin ridigid when compared to the original design.

[Rocketboy1030]

nose mounted and wing panels drying, I have some warp in the wing and I am hoping the fiberglass rods take it out. I will mount my 45amp ESCs to the centre divider so they have some airflow over the heat sinks.

[Dutkoski]

Don't be too concerned about the slight warp in the wings, it's caused by the hot wire cutting when the panels were tapered. After the glue dries, block sand the upper surface with 120 or 150 grit sand paper and remove the very thin skin created by the hot wire. Also sand the bottom surface. This wil relax the foam and the warp wil disappear. Do this before adding the fiberglass spars.

[Rocketboy1030]

where do these plastic parts go?

[Dutkoski]

They are the simulated wing joint covers, on on top and one on the bottom just behind the dog tooth feature. This is the best recent picture showing the location of the top one. The one on the underside is located in the same spot.for better view, look at the three view in the instruction manual.

I see you have the ESC's really close to the EDF units, you should zip tie them pretty securely to the center web. Personally, I have them up front, the wires are longer, but I used 16 gauge so there was no degrading the voltage due to their length. I keep the wires short between the battery setup and the ESC's where the high amp draw is.

Do you not have the instruction book?

[Rocketboy1030]

I have the book but I must be missing a page or an older book, do you have a close up picture of how these are positioned ?Everything else is going well, more photos later, new rudder is perfect!

[Dutkoski]

The fairings are pretty wel defined, so cut them out and carefully sand the edges flat so they will sit flush with the wing surface. They should be rectangular, long and narrow. Basically, the rear surface should be just infront of the control surface hinge line.

The model is not an exact replica, so certain liberties had to be made. I'd send you a more definitive picture, but my Arrow is presently packed away in my trailer for the trip home and I really cannot get at it. But look at the three view drawing included with the manual, they are in line with the dog tooth feature.