[YoungestPiperCub]

Hello All,

Once again I am building (assembling) yet another plane. This time it is a Pilot 90" Trainer. This airplane is a new offering by Pilot and by AMR and I thought I would do a build thread to help new flyers along and show how easy it is to put one of these birds together My plan is to maiden it on June 1st. (Just 9 days away) This really isnt a very tight timeline as it goes together so easily!!!

First up I got the box from AMR today

I opened it up and found a whole bunch of SPARE PARTS!!!!! this is such a great idea for those not so perfect landings

The wings come packaged nicely already cut for hinges (not glued)

I am using a JC30 engine in this build as well as 8315 Servos made by power HD. These are new servos that AMR now caries and have great specs at a great price!!!

To keep it dead simple for new flyers I am using simple 5 cell nimh batteries. That way its easier with no regulators etc.

TIME TO BUILD arty:

First I pulled out the fuselage and got it unwrapped. Upon closer inspection this plane has the servo wires PRE-RUN to make it simple!!!! I was very happy about that

Next I laid the wing joiners onto the table and used a soldering iron to open up the holes for the wing screws.

After that you slide the 2 wing panels together and put it onto of the fuse. Using the supplied hardware you bolt the wing to the fuse. EVERYTHING LINED UP PERFECT!!!!!

Total Time 30 min

[YoungestPiperCub]

Next up is the tail. First you must cut the slot out. This should be done right by the edge of the wood and not in the middle. Then you slide in the tail feather to the back.

Next up take a tape measure and measure the tail from the fuse to the tip on both sides to make sure it is in the middle. Then measure from the tips to the fuse to make sure it is straight. After you have measured those mark off the location on the stab with a ball point pen (this is easy to wipe off later)

Next cut just inside the line (about 1/8in) MAKE SURE YOU JUST CUT THE COVERING. Do not cut the wood underneath. After the cut remove the covering so that the wood is exposed. At this point I like to seal the cut line with a covering iron so that it sits down nice.

BUILDER TIP: Tape off the sides of the slot and the marked lines. This makes cleanup later SO MUCH EASIER!!!

Once its all ready mix up some 30 min epoxy and apply it into the slot on both sides. Then when it is all in apply some to the wood on the stab and slide in the stab back into its marks. Notice the epoxy ozeing out??? Arn't you glad you have tape under there to keep your new airplane clean Wipe up the drips and double check you measurements. Then l;eave the epozy to dry and go in to eat supper

This also is a good time to apply you AMR stickers

Total Time 1.25hrs

[YoungestPiperCub]

Next Up I flipped the plane over and cut out the forward landing gear bay. This is easiest to do by firts cutting the covering down the middle to the edge the cutting the inside to make an "I" shape

Next cut the wood sides flush and iron down the covering (sides first then front and back)

Next bolt on the landing gear (I added bonded washers here) At this point you could put in the flying support wires but I will do that later on.

Next bolt the axles onto the landing gear. AMR gave me some huge tires for this plane to make it that much uglier they are quite a bit bigger and look cool. I then bolted them on between the wheel collars supplied with the kit.

Next flip the plane over so its on its feet

Remove the top hatch and pull the 2 fuel lines through. On the side of the fuse is a hole for the fuel dot. Remove the fuel dot from the t line and install on the side of the plane. Then run the t fuel line out of the side and put the plug back in.

Next mounts the standoffs to the engine. The JC30cc is the same mount pattern as a DLE30 so it makes install a breeze. Simply drill out the locations shown and bolt it in I also bolted the exhaust on using some Ultra Copper. This is my preferred sealant and I have used it for years with no issues. (I prefer over gaskets)

Total Time 2.5 hrs

[YoungestPiperCub]

Next up was to Glue in the verticle stab. This is the same process as the horizntal stb. This time the stab is already covered and has the gluing area marked off. It is just a matter of lining it up and applying glue then gluing it in place. Remeber to tape the area off again like last time

Also during the time you are epoxying in the stab you can glue the control horns to the flight surfaces. These are pre-notched and easy to line up. You simply need to sand them and apply glue and insert them. This is well covered in the manual.

Next is the throttle linkage while all that dries. I started by installing the servo in the front area. Next I drilled a hole 3/8" below the standoff and fed the linkage through to the servo. I lined it up and marked where to put a zbend. I then made the z bend and put it on the servo arm. After I put the servo arm on the servo and attached the front on the linkage to the engine using the provided hardware. VOILA DONE!!!

Next I put on the tail wheel. I did it a bit different which did not work out so I changed mine to a free castering tail wheel. I would recommend you do it the way the manual states this means you have to set this up before you glue the hinges on the rudder

Once you are satisfied with the tail feathers and tail wheel glue the flight surfaces in place with thin ca wicked into the hinges

Total Time 4 hours

[YoungestPiperCub]

Once that is done you need to do the tail linkages. First off cut open the openings like they are listed in the manual and pull out the prerun extension. THIS IS SOOO NICE!!!! then bolt in the servo. After that is done, use the given hardware to bolt the linage to the servo and to the tail feather. These are threaded rods so to shorten them you need to tighten both clevises and it will get shorter.

Once I got those done I cut a hole in the bottom of the fuse and ran the igniton wire out. Then it was hooked to the motor. At the same time I bolted an 18x10 prop to the engine as well!

Next up I mounted the battery in the fuse just behind the balance point and mounted the receiver on top of the fuel tank. (you may need to mount in different places with different equipment to get the balance correct.

Next I cut out the openings on the wing and installed the servos the same way you do the tail feathers.

Finally just like in the manual, install the landing gear wires.

THATS IT ITS DONE!!!!

TOTAL TIME ONLY 8 HRS

Video to come in the next few days but it flies unbelievable!!!

[g1975a]

That's a nice step-by-step build. Thanks for sharing it, Kevin.

[luvflying]

This is the best review of a plane I have read and it happens to be a plane AND engine I am about to purchase. How does it fly? Other than the tail wheel is there anything you would have done differently when you were building it? Did you cut the ailerons to make flaps?

Thanks,

Ron T.
West Monroe, La.
USA

[Wheels_78]

A 90" trainer... that's gonna be one relaxing airplane to fly. Careful you don't start watching it fly so much you forget you're the pilot... it happens.

So now there are going to be RC pilots out there who've never flown .40 size.

[Dale Hunter]

Originally Posted by Wheels_78

A 90" trainer... that's gonna be one relaxing airplane to fly. Careful you don't start watching it fly so much you forget you're the pilot... it happens.

So now there are going to be RC pilots out there who've never flown .40 size.

Cory, you are starting to sound like us old timers!

-Dale-



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[YoungestPiperCub]

Originally Posted by luvflying

This is the best review of a plane I have read and it happens to be a plane AND engine I am about to purchase. How does it fly? Other than the tail wheel is there anything you would have done differently when you were building it? Did you cut the ailerons to make flaps?

Thanks,

Ron T.
West Monroe, La.
USA

It flies great, you will be very happy with it, no I did not do the flaps, you dont need them it floats!!!!

The tail wheel i would have done stock if I did it again.