[Ken Charron]

When the flaps are fully retracted, the bell-cranks should look like figure 132.

[Ken Charron]

Infront of the aileron control horn is where the aileron servo will be placed. The servo tray is positioned between Rib E and Rib C. In this location, cut and and install two sticks of 1/4"x1/4" balsa. This is where the servo tray will be secured with two screws. (figure 133).

Just in front of this area is a 3/16" balsa spar. It requires some CA to harden the areas where the servo tray will contact.

[Ken Charron]

Wing Servo Tray
The wing servo tray has few parts, and needs little explanation on how the assembly is done. See the attached photos for clarification.

Note to Ken: exploded view needed.

Each wing servo tray is a mirror of the other (try not to build two left servo trays).

[Ken Charron]

Final Sheeting
Once the aileron servo trays are built, install them into the wing. This will aid the installation of cap-strips and spar-strips. Examine plan sheet 2 for sections that require 1/16 balsa sheeting for these areas.

Attached are a few images of how this sheeting is arranged on the wing.

Figure 137 shows the area where the aileron servo tray is mounted and secured with 2 screws. Note the length of the control rods and the angle of the bell-cranks.

[Ken Charron]

Once final sheeting is complete, sand all areas and cover the wing with Ultracote. Cover the control surfaces and the Aileron servo trays.

The Aileron servo tray should have enough room for a snug fit. The servos will need cable extensions to reach the fuselage.

[Ken Charron]

Now that the wing is complete and covered, the fuselage now has something to mate with. The gap spacing on the fuselage around the windscreen may need to be adjusted. Although we are fond of Ultracote, many builders choose to cover their craft with cloth. While there are pros and cons to various types of covering, one aspect of cloth is without question: It's thick, especially where corners converge.

If you are using cloth, the gap between the windscreen and Rib A might be tight. If you install the wing onto the fuselage at this point, some sanding may be required - something nobody would rather find out after they've covered the fuselage.

At this point, we will return to the fuselage having a completed wing to test fit.

[Ken Charron]

Cowl Hatch
If you are installing an electric power system, or a gas configuration, you have the option to skip this section. For those using a 2-stroke engine (or perhaps a 4-stroke), follow this section.

Install the assembly for the hatch into the cowl. Using a 1/8" drill bit and a rotary drill tool, drill 4 holes in an even manner (see figure 142). If you are using a 4-stroke engine and find the valve covers interfering with some parts, you will have to choose the location of these holes carefully.

Once you have drilled 4 holes, insert 1/8" x 1/8" cylindrical magnets (not supplied) into the holes - two at a time. 4 magnets will remain in the hatch, while the other 4 will remain in the cowl support arm. The magnets should be a snug fit.

Note to Ken: Confirm the name of parts referred here

Remove the cowl hatch and adjust the 4 magnets so they are flush. Apply CA glue to each magnet. Perform this for the other magnets on the Cowl support arm.

[Ken Charron]

Now that engine clearance is verified with the hatch, Remove the engine.

The throttle cable (if equipped with a sleeve) should remain in place. Also, the screws should remain as well (with a small amount of oil on the threads).

Apply 5 minute epoxy to the firewall and all associated joints.

Once fully cured, position the muffler over the nose gear block. Install the engine mount, and then the engine.

Note: with this engine and the recommended muffler (Bisson #1001) the muffler can be installed or removed while the engine mount is in place.

[Ken Charron]

If anyone finds this manual getting a bit long, you may point out areas where "too much instruction" is provided. I won't go into how to cover a wing, but for other things, I feel clarity is better then uncertainty.

[Ken Charron]

Cowl Sheeting
The cowl sheeting uses 1/64" 3-ply. Locate the 4 laser cut sections for the cowl.

For the main cowl section (largest piece), use masking tape to secure the top side. Use wood glue for this process. Do not attempt to trap the both the upper and lower plywood with masking tape, the force from the plywood skin may break free.

Once the upper section is cured, glue and trap the lower section with masking tape. (see figures 148, 148 )

It's advisable to install and secure the DU-BRO exhaust tips at this point.

Install and glue the the lower starboard sheeting.

Once the main cowl is covered, insert the frame of the cowl hatch and glue only the top section of the plywood skin to the top of the hatch door. Once cured, the remaining section can be glued outside the cowl. This process acknowledges the chance that slight distortion on cowl hatch is possible, as no alignment pins are offered.

The last component of the ply sheeting is the small area in front of the nose gear block (figure 151). It may be required to bend this part a bit to help continue the curved area of the cowl.

Once all ply sheeting is in place, sand the pins smooth with the cowl. Be careful not to over sand the sheeting, as it's very thin already.