[Trumpetman]

Originally Posted by Lorne @ Pro-RC.ca

The tach and opto kill is a promotion I have going on with the eme engines.

I wasn't aware of the tach and opto kill promo so it was a very pleasant surprise! Lorne, I assume that the timing issue is no longer an issue LOL?

[Lorne @ Pro-RC.ca]

Originally Posted by Trumpetman

I wasn't aware of the tach and opto kill promo so it was a very pleasant surprise! Lorne, I assume that the timing issue is no longer an issue LOL?

It has been set at about 29 deg on most of the new 120's but take a quick peek.

The Extra style carbon fibre gear I have in stock is 22" wide, fits a 7.5 to 9.25" wide fuse and is 9.5 " high from middle of axle to middle of carbon fibre up top. gear is a hair under 2" wide where it mounts to the fuse

I also have edge gear that is about the same size

cheers

[Trumpetman]

There is not much I can do on this plane until I get a couple of orders in from Pro-RC and ThunderboltRC....In the mean time I'll start the filling and sanding on the wings and stabs.

I've been thinking about the colour scheme and although I tend towards a scheme that is used on a full scale plane I came across this fantasy scheme that has kind of grabbed my attention. I'm not 100% decided but what do you guys think? It came from a plastic model website and the person who did this model was thinking about what Canada's elite demonstration team might look like if the cuts to our military continue LOL

[Phil202]

SnowBird look a like is always nice and clean looking!
Go for it!

Cheers

[Dale Hunter]

I like it Gordon. You have my vote.
-Dale-



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[bbbair]

NOPE! No Vote from me.

The colours are too clean on the top and all that white could turn a plane invisible. I am a believer in Bright and Bold patterns so that regardless of the conditions the plane is easy to see and distinguish the orientation.

But that is just my opinion.

I look forward to seeing what you do.

[Trumpetman]

Ok so far that is 3 yes votes (including me lol) and 1 no vote. I understand Rob's concern but I think the reason this will work (regardless of conditions) is:
1. Size - at over 100 inches of wingspan the white on top should be visible (even for my tired old eyes LOL);
2. There is a strong colour contrast on the side of the fuse that should make it pretty easy to orient.
3. I plan on adding some white contrast stripes on the bottom of the wing and stab. I've always found that darker colours, like red, turn black at a distance in the air.

[Scrappy]

Originally Posted by Trumpetman

Ok so far that is 3 yes votes (including me lol) and 1 no vote. I understand Rob's concern but I think the reason this will work (regardless of conditions) is:
1. Size - at over 100 inches of wingspan the white on top should be visible (even for my tired old eyes LOL);
2. There is a strong colour contrast on the side of the fuse that should make it pretty easy to orient.
3. I plan on adding some white contrast stripes on the bottom of the wing and stab. I've always found that darker colours, like red, turn black at a distance in the air.

Make that 4 yes votes

The Tutor scale jet that flew at the Airdrie Airshow a couple years back was quite visible and even when it got small orientation was good.
(I think that was Alan B. from Calgary's jet.) As this is a fantasy scheme you could always add stripes top or bottom if needed.

[Trumpetman]

So keep your votes coming in on the proposed scheme .

I had a question on how I laid out the dimensions of the control hom so here is the drawing that I did for the rudder control horn. The main concern that I have is to put the pivot point of the control horn directly over the hinge line. After that I determine how far away the hinge pivot is from the control arm pivot. I want to use lots of the servo movement and get as much leverage advantage as I can get so I set this point at 1.6 inches.

I glue the drawing to a piece of card stock and cut it out. Trace the drawing onto the G10, cut and finish like the aileron control horns.

[Trumpetman]

I noticed last season that the horizontal stab was seemed a bit floppy which I wrote off as being wear between the phonelic tube and the CF spar tube. When I was stripping the covering from the tail end of the plane I hear something hit the ground and guess what - the phonelic tube just fell out of the fuse So now that I knew what was causing the sloppy stab. I decided to make sure that the stab tube and the wing tube were aligned. There is nothing you can do about a misalignment with an ARF but I now have the chance to get it right. The first picture shows the tube that fell out and the next picture shows the alignment between the wing and stab tube as per the factory build. Not bad but certainly not aligned! I filed the opening a bit and used a balsa shim to hold the phonelic in its new position. The alignment is now dead on

I mixed up some epoxy and I mixed in some fiberglass fibers that I cut from the frayed end of some 6 ounce cloth. This forms a very tough material (much stronger than straight epoxy) that does not run on vertical surfaces. Pretty much a poor man's Hysol LOL

Slop some in there with a stick and then smooth it out with a gloved finger. BTW, I hope to build for a long time yet and I do not want to develop an allergy to epoxy! The best thing you can do, is to avoid direct skin contact with epoxy resin or hardener so I alway use gloves when handling this stuff.