[akabek]

I had success tonight. Using the scan I traced the gasket, made a copy and flipped it 180 degrees. Than I erased the sections I did not need. I welded both parts together and sized it.

For the second gasket I traced it, enlarged it and erased parts I did not need. Than I added the bolt holes and the main pipe hole. I made some test cuts until I had the size I needed.

For the auto cutter I looked for the setting that had the slowest and deepest cut. It was not quite deep enough but close enough. Both gaskets are spot on. No I am assembly my new air frame and think about the graphics I will add to spice it up. Thanks for everyone's assistance.

[akabek]

I was able to use the scanned JPG file from my printer. What would the advantage be of using the pixscan mat? Would the image be more crisp using the original on the mat?

[Mike Sebastien]

Trying my best to explain pixscan. For example if you want to reproduce a plywood former. of course you can you can just scan it and use that image .....but it won't be accurate. Problems arise as the scanner doesn't accurately reproduce the former.

First you have to calibrate your scanner or camera to the software. Once you have done this lay the former on the pixscan mat (it is sticky like the cutting mat) Take a picture making sure you get the registration marks that is on the pixscan mat in the picture. Try and be straight up from the pixscan mat and highest resolution on your camera. I place a white piece of paper on the mat before I lay the former down as it gives a sharper line. Import the image into the software and use the trace feature to establish the cut lines. I use sticky backed paper with removeable backing and place it on the pixscan mat. The most important part is the cutter has to find the registration marks on the pixscan mat to orientate itself to the image. once it's done that successfully it will make the cut. Pull the former off the mat and you now have a accurate template of the former.

Hope that helps to explain, there would be easier ways of doing what I just explained is the only example I could come up with that us airheads would understand. Think nose art and how Pixscan can be used for that.

It is a very powerful feature where you can accurately reproduce a item. Watch the Pixscan video on youtube

[akabek]

That makes sense. I had a feeling it would be around accurancy.

[Max]

Originally Posted by Mike Sebastien

Trying my best to explain pixscan. For example if you want to reproduce a plywood former. of course you can you can just scan it and use that image .....but it won't be accurate. Problems arise as the scanner doesn't accurately reproduce the former.

First you have to calibrate your scanner or camera to the software. Once you have done this lay the former on the pixscan mat (it is sticky like the cutting mat) Take a picture making sure you get the registration marks that is on the pixscan mat in the picture. Try and be straight up from the pixscan mat and highest resolution on your camera. I place a white piece of paper on the mat before I lay the former down as it gives a sharper line. Import the image into the software and use the trace feature to establish the cut lines. I use sticky backed paper with removeable backing and place it on the pixscan mat. The most important part is the cutter has to find the registration marks on the pixscan mat to orientate itself to the image. once it's done that successfully it will make the cut. Pull the former off the mat and you now have a accurate template of the former.

Hope that helps to explain, there would be easier ways of doing what I just explained is the only example I could come up with that us airheads would understand. Think nose art and how Pixscan can be used for that.

It is a very powerful feature where you can accurately reproduce a item. Watch the Pixscan video on youtube

Thanks Mike. Understanding this process just makes this tool that much more useful.

[Mike Sebastien]

I tried cutting out a rib from 1/16 balsa using the deep cut blade and it worked pretty well. I used the max blade setting 20 to cut the balsa sheet. it didn't cut all the way, was fairly easy to finish the cut with a xacto blade. For the cross grain cuts I choose the perforate option instead of a complete cut. I tried 3/32 balsa sheet and the Cameo wouldn't load it as it was to thick. If I was doing 1 or 2 ribs I probably wouldn't use the Cameo, if I was doing a bunch of ribs definitely.

[akabek]

I picked up a HIX heat press and made my first T-shirt. It turned out pretty good. I bought a pack of 4 black Tshirts and 4 white shirts from Costco. After taxes it comes out to $4.50 a shirt. I can see making logos and Tshirts becoming addictive.

5-6 years ago I owned a 2010 Aprilia RSV4 Factory motorcycle so I did my Tshirt up around the bike.

[jtsmash]

Craftshack.ca has good prices for vinyl. They carry oracal/avrey/siser they are in timmins ont. They have a sale starting on Monday if anyone needs to stock up check out their site.

[Max]

Thanks Rick!!

Turns out the font size I gave you was correct (They looked kinda big when I first got them) but they look great on the plane.
Thanks.
PS- I might need more soon

[akabek]

Your welcome Max. They definitely do look like they fit. If you need more let me know.