[Dutkoski]

Checked this model out yesterday and looked at the various builds and what I wanted from it. I had purchased the semi scale retracts and struts to use with this model. Also looked at and evaluated the different power systems I have on hand. So, decided to go with my original intentions and keep this as simple as practical.

If I use a single 90 mm, I will have to make a new bifurcate thrust tube. More work. I would need at least a 6 cell 4000 mah battery pack, weight. For a twin 70 mm setup, I already have a selection of thrust tube moulds for making fibreglass parts. Also, if I use two smaller batteries, less weight as I have several Mega Motors that are EDF motors that operate just fine on a three cell setup.

I think this will be a bunjee launch model, save a pound in weight, so if anyone wants to buy those retracts and struts for what it cost me to get them, PM me.

Control surfaces will be normal in setup, elevator, rudder and One surface for both ailerons and flaps.

Started the build last night, the fuse was glued together first off. Was kinda concerned about doing this first but the access to the inside via the bottom hatch and through the canopy is very good, so got at it. Then spackled all the moulded panel lines as they are way way too big.

Also, started the re-work for the damaged canopy, making a mould from the imperfect one.

The spackled product I used is DAP Fast and Final, lightwieght spackled from Home Depot. My tub of filler you get from the hobby shop had gone bad, and I was stuck. Went on pretty good, but after drying all night, found it hadn't hardened like we're used to, had the hardness of cheese. Sanding it was a learning experience as well. Had to use 150 grit fine sand paper or the spackled just balls up. But even though it dooes eventually sand smooth, using a light touch, I don't think I'll use this product again for this purpose. I hope it will stand up to Flecto water base Diiamond Coat.

[Dutkoski]

This morning, after about 7 hours of drying, I sanded one wing. Using 150 grit paper, I block sanded the wings surface smooth, removed any moulded in features as they were too pronounced anyway.

Again, you have to have a light touch sanding this spackle or it will ball up under the sand paper and make a mess of the foam surface. Also, I found that sanding in one direction, not back and forth to be the most efficient method. The foam Haoye used is very nice to sand, gives a very smooth surface.

After removing the aileron from the wing, the gaps between the wing sections and the control surface ends are over 1/8" so I'll be adding some balsa to tighten up this gap.

So, it looks like tonight will be doing nothing but sanding the airframe. Will let you know how it turns out.

[Dutkoski]

As for the colour scheme, was thinking about the 2015 demo scheme but the graphics on the tail is hard to reproduce, so it looks like my original choice is going to be used.

I did order the 1/32 me scale decal sheet from Leading Edge and the crest on the vertical fin is large enough to enlarge and get the detail. The rest of the graphics are dirt easy to do.

[Dutkoski]

Darn auto correct, just noticed the title of the tread was changed from Hoaye F-18 Build to Hosted F-18 Build. Anyone know how to change this?

[NDW]

John,
I have the same airframe. I plan on starting it till the snow flies and will be seeing what you do with yours and suggestions you make along the way. I to am leaving the landing gear off.... I'm slowly collecting electrics for this beast and plan on using twin 70mm Dr madd thrust 10 blade fan units complete with there recommended esc's on twin 3 cell battery packs..... I already have bought into your idea of filling the much to large panel lines and filling with spackling and re-scribing......

Dave....

[NDW]

What about enlarging the tail decal to the corrected size the. Use water decal paper...

D.

[Dutkoski]

Well, I make my own self adhesive decals for my kits. I use full page clear labels, you can get them at Staples if you only need a few sheets, I buy them from a company in Florida, OnLine Labels, at 100 per pack. You can also get the labels in white, both are Matt finish. They prints great in the old ink jet printer too. Once printer and the ink is dried, I clear coat them with Krylon Satin Clear. It doesn't attack the ink and bonds really well. Then simply cut them out, peal off the paper backing and stick them on. When you clear coat the airframe, the edges get sealed. Also, the smoother the surface, the better they stick.

I thought about that, for the tail images, I might give that a try, I did find HD pictures of both fins on the Internet.

[NDW]

That's the same company I get the water transfer decal paper from... Lol.... Keep up the good work and posting your progress please....

D.

[Dutkoski]

Small world, huh.

I just finished moulding up the fiberglass vacuum forming mould to replicate a nicer canopy, the one that came with the kit had a fold in it. You can see the steps to do this in the construction ideas, hints and tips forum.

[Dutkoski]

Well, it's 3 a.m., couldn't sleep so went to the workshop and did some sanding therapy. Got the wings, vertical fins, elevators and hatch sanded smooth. Not looking forward to sanding the fuselage, lots of filler was used.

Seeing how ridgid these foam parts are, I might only cover the elevators with glass cloth to make them stiffer.

Going to give using latex primer as my colour coat, will tint it with some flat black to get the two tone grey. I'm hoping, being primer, it'll bond to the foam better than most paints so I can use low tack masking tape. Also, once thinned down, you can spray it quite nicely at low pressure.