[vgjunky]

Just getting into FPV and want to address the range issue wrt transmitters. I was on the HK site and found an LRS module that would do the trick that comes as Futaba or JR:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...a_module_.html
What type of Futaba radio should I be looking for that will accept the module as I assume not all Futaba radio's have the module style slot on the back that would accept the module. I have a post in the "WANTED" section of electronics looking for a JR radio (newer at a good price) but thought it may be more cost effective to get a Futaba.

I am a DX7 user and have little experience with Futaba's so if you Futaba guys could chime in with some advise it would be appreciated or even let me know if you have a Futaba for sale (a newer one, preferably close to mint) it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all!

[Max]

I am using a Dragonlink LRS with a Futaba9CAP.

I also have used a Turnigy 9X with dragonlink.

The truth is, all the LRS really needs is 3 connections;

• Positive Power lead
• Negative power lead
• PPM signal lead

With Dragonlink, the LRS comes with a 3 conductor lead that is really just a servo lead. You attache the 3 leads to the corresponding module pins on the Radio, regardless if it is JR, Futaba, Airtronics or Hitec (at least all the ones that have a module slot)

So far so good?

The modules offered by Orange LRS simplify the install into your transmitter. Rather than having to run a 3 conductor from the module to the TX, you simply plug it into the TX. BUT, since the pin-outs on the TX is different between Futaba and JR, you have to make sure you buy the right Orange LRS module to fit your particular radio.

The truth is, if you are handy enough for basic soldering, you can "adapt" any LRS module (be it Dragonlink or Orange LRS) to use with any module based radio with very little effort. For example, if someone gave me an ORange LRS module made for JR but I wanted to use it on my Futaba, I would simply get a piece of 3 conductor wire and run it from the module to the TX. Naturally, this means the module will not plug into my Futaba radio, but instead wil have to be velcro'd to the outside. Big deal. That is how most FPV pilots using LRS systems have thier TX's set up anyway. (Unless you are like BCSaltchucker and wire it INTO your Jeti radio system!!! )

[vgjunky]

Yes I looked at Dragon link, and have enough knowledge to modify my DX7, I just figured getting a Futaba or JR radio with the LRS module I linked above would be a good way to go as well, especially if I get it used off RCCanada. The price of Dragon link is about the same as getting a used Futaba module style radio and the LRS module. I am going to leave my DX7 as it for field flying and I want a seperate radio for FPV. I hear what your saying about connecting or adapting 3 wires, I just figured I would get a used radio (JR or Futaba) that would take the module without having to adapt since I am getting a separate remote for FPV anyway.

[Max]

Originally Posted by vgjunky

Just getting into FPV and want to address the range issue wrt transmitters.

While on the subject of range, FYI the Orange LRS is 100mw. In contrast, my dragonlink is 500mw. Range is never a worry for me. Any range limits I were to face are governed by battery run time and not distance. FWIW, my personal record for time aloft under continuous power (No motor-off gliding) is just shy of 60 minutes.

• Tests have been done with 2.4G systems and they run about 4 miles.
• Tests with 72mhz systems run at 4 miles as well.
• I wonder what sort of range a 100mw 433mhz system will get you?

Regardless of range, the REAL feature any FPV pilot worth his salt NEEDS (sorta) is RSSI. RSSI stands for "Received signal strength indicator"

Look at this picture-Top left side. The RSSI shows 86%


Knowing your RSSI limit tells you when you've gone too far. You don't want to go beyond your maximum radio range unless you have an autopilot. Nobody wants to lose a plane, right?

My RSSI minimum limit is 25%. In the above picture, I am a long way from 25%, so I never even worry about losing radio link with my plane. Below 25%, my autopilot kicks in. If you don't have autopilot you need to keep a close eye on your RSSI if you are flying at range. Depending on your RSSI limit, you should turn around at least 20% above that limit. 20% of 25 is 10, so my turnaround is 35% RSSI (If I ever fly that far, which I don't)

Some of the seasoned FPV'ers that have autopilot systems will tell you that you don't need RSSI. Just fly until you lose RC link and the autopilot does the work.
Um...Yeah, you could do that, but....

• FIRST you need to be an experienced FPV'er,
• SECOND you have to have a good autopilot system
• THIRD you need to have faith in your autopilot system (and that comes from numerous test flights "Testing" the Failsafe and running practice drills)
• And finally, I would add RSSI changes depending on WHERE you fly.
  Sometimes I can go quite a ways and RSSI still shows 100%. Other times I barely get out and RSSI drops to 85%. Its all dependent on where you are at. Some places have higher RF interference than others. So you never know if your range will be cut down by interference from who knows where. Being able to SEE my RSSI drop faster than normal warns me that I am flying in an area of high RF noise and that I should 1) be cautious about my RSSI and 2) fly closer than normal "just in case". Not having RSSI will deprive you of this safety benefit

Most LRS systems have an RSSI out. Which is great. There are also tutorials that will allow you to hack certain brands of RX's for RSSI. I have seen them done on 72mhz Futaba, JR and Corona receivers. A local FPV friend of mine even hacked a cheap-o Orange 6channel RX (the 6 dollar one) that he flies on 2.4g. It works and works well.

[Max]

Originally Posted by vgjunky

Yes I looked at Dragon link, and have enough knowledge to modify my DX7, I just figured getting a Futaba or JR radio with the LRS module I linked above would be a good way to go as well, especially if I get it used off RCCanada. The price of Dragon link is about the same as getting a used Futaba module style radio and the LRS module. I am going to leave my DX7 as it for field flying and I want a seperate radio for FPV. I hear what your saying about connecting or adapting 3 wires, I just figured I would get a used radio (JR or Futaba) that would take the module without having to adapt since I am getting a separate remote for FPV anyway.

I see. Don't mess with the DX7

I strongly recommend the Futaba T9CAP if you can get it. Its hailed as the best FPV radio to have . That's what I use and I can say it has some neat features other FPV tx's I've tried to not have. If you want to use a head-tracker, most head tracking modules are pre-wired for Futaba.

You can get one used from anywhere from $100-$200. I got mine for $100. A friend picked one up on RCC for just a little more.

Another great radio you should try to get your hands on is the Turnigy 9x- the module based one. ITs also very good for FPV and the module format is JR based.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Firmware_.html

[vgjunky]

Max,
would you mind providing me (and others in the same boat) with links for all the equipment I will need for 5km+ FPV? I don't like to do things half@ssed so although I never considered RSSI or autopilot to start off I would rather do it right the first time. Tried piecing combinations and information off the net but am on information overload. In short I am looking for LRS and FPV setup at a reasonable cost, but that said I know you get what you pay for. Any help would be appreciated. I am picking up a pair of FatShark Predator goggles this weekend so that's all I have for my FPV setup. Planning on a Bixler2 to fly.

Thanks!

[Max]

Hi Bob. You pose a very valid question. I wrote up my response and realized it is a common question. This question requires that the person asking it to take a timeout and really take stock of his/her intentions in FPV. There are related costs with each level of FPV skill. Cheaper DOES NOT always cost less in the long run.

As a result, the answer to your question is now posted in the (Click link: ) FPV for Dummies thread.

I also indexed the FPV for Dummies thread to allow you to go directly to a given subject from the index. In your case, the response is here: (Click link: ) you must make a choice

Head over there and check it out. Think about what you want to start with for now. You CAN go full FPV long range off the bat, but you must realize there is a serious investment needed to do it right. Then come back here and let us know how you want to start. From there we can post ideas for hardware to get you going

[vgjunky]

Thanks Max.!

Originally Posted by Max

Hi Bob. You pose a very valid question. I wrote up my response and realized it is a common question. This question requires that the person asking it to take a timeout and really take stock of his/her intentions in FPV. There are related costs with each level of FPV skill. Cheaper DOES NOT always cost less in the long run.

As a result, the answer to your question is now posted in the (Click link: ) FPV for Dummies thread.

I also indexed the FPV for Dummies thread to allow you to go directly to a given subject from the index. In your case, the response is here: (Click link: ) you must make a choice

Head over there and check it out. Think about what you want to start with for now. You CAN go full FPV long range off the bat, but you must realize there is a serious investment needed to do it right. Then come back here and let us know how you want to start. From there we can post ideas for hardware to get you going

[Max]

Originally Posted by vgjunky

Thanks Max,
I have been through the FPV for dummies but thought there was a common setup.

How long ago? the new section was just added and now appears as the second post; Here it is again:
https://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/show...46&postcount=2

Originally Posted by vgjunky

The second link in your above response didn't work for me, could you amend?

Fixed! Thanks for the heads up

[bcsaltchucker]

I understand the RMilec is one of the lesser LRS out there. There is also the Chainlink and Rangelink that is a good bargain with wide approval.

Also, note that Orange now has a 1000mW OpenLRS unit sold at Hobbyking. Actual output is supposedly about 400mW, which is similar to the Draginlink v 1.0 which Max and I have. This is all very NEW, though. OpenLRS systems can be a hackers project, not necessarily PNP for long range. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...mpatible_.html

I recently moved to using the Cadillac of LRS - the Thomas Scherrer UHF LRS. Well built, and the lesser TSLRS receivers are ultralightweight. I think it puts out 3 watts on high power!

I really like using a Turnigy 9x and 9XR radios. As long as they have Er9x in them, they and the new Taranis are the best possible radio for programmability. Better programming than any radio out there imho. Though I am now using a $1200 Jeti radio with the TSLRS, I really miss the 9x/Dragonlink - ha.

One thing for sure: if you get a regular Turnigy 9x, be prepared to flash the firmware to Er9x or Open 9x. The OEM firmware is horrible. 9XR and Taranis come with the good stuff already loaded, ready to run.