[Gary Maker]

I know there has been much posted here about breaking in a new 4 stroke engine, or any engine, as far at that goes, but in doing the searches, I just can't seem to find it.

Anyone help me out? I specifically want to know the best proceedure for breaking in a new 4 stroker.

Also, fuel recommended, ie. full synthetic or synthetic/castor blend?

Any other pertenant info would also be appreciated.

[VA6WGO]

What does it say in the manual about the breaking procedure? What kind of engine is it?

Cheers,

Will

[Jiver]

I just completed the break-in of a Saito 62; I followed the manual. I used Cool Power Heli 20% (full synthetic). I let it idle at factory needle settings for the first couple of tanks. After that, I varied the throttle from idle to max. Let the engine cool completely and started her up again. There is now about 10 tanks at factory needle settings (break-in). I will be tuning soon...

Thanks,

Gordon

[AJCoholic]

Originally Posted by Gary Maker

I know there has been much posted here about breaking in a new 4 stroke engine, or any engine, as far at that goes, but in doing the searches, I just can't seem to find it.

Anyone help me out? I specifically want to know the best proceedure for breaking in a new 4 stroker.

Also, fuel recommended, ie. full synthetic or synthetic/castor blend?

Any other pertenant info would also be appreciated.

Gary,
If it is a Saito or OS, just follow the directions. If its something else without clear directions, basically (assuming a ringed engine) run a few tanks on the test stand through it with the carb wide open, but super rich so the rpm stays at 6,000 or less. You may need to keep the glow ignitor on to so this.

Then, run a few tanks through the engine with thge carb still wide open, but on a rich setting (not as rich, but still slobbering) and every 30 or so seconds lean it out for 10 seconds and then richen it back up.

Then, run a partial tank through again wide open, with the engine leaned out to just under a peak setting. While warm, use the rest of the tank to adjust the needles (low and high).

You should be good to go flying! It might take you an hour or two to get this done, but it will pay off with a reliable, ready to run engine that wont quit on you.

AJC

[Gary Maker]

Thanks guys for the replys.

Andrew, yes it is a 1.25 Saito. I didn't realize you should run a new engine wide open like this and adjust the needles while still wide open. Always thought it should be done at a lower RPM setting.

I will definitely give your method a go. Thank you again!

[AJCoholic]

Originally Posted by Gary Maker

Thanks guys for the replys.

Andrew, yes it is a 1.25 Saito. I didn't realize you should run a new engine wide open like this and adjust the needles while still wide open. Always thought it should be done at a lower RPM setting.

I will definitely give your method a go. Thank you again!

Gary, yes I run my engines with the carb open fully - but you open the high speed needle so it is very rich and use that to control the rpms.

If I am not mistaken, Saito suggests keeping the rpms to below 4000 for the first 10 minutes. You might have to close down the carb to maybe 2/3 for that to happen. However, I feel in smaller glow engines, running extended periods at idle doesnt break in engines as well as running with lots of fuel passing through the engine, and at a slightly elevated temp, even though the rpm will be kept down.

You will pass a crazy amount of fuel through the engine in this very rich initial setting, and like I said you will probably have to keep the glow plug lit to keep it running for the first few rich runs.

AJC