[timberman]

I'm looking for MEASUREMENTS for a piece called alignment wedge missing from my red box p40 kit. In step #2 and#4
thanks Dennis

[mwavesdave]

I gotcha now Dennis, the photo shows exactly what it is. All we'd need to do is borrow an incidence meter on the bare framed wing, take the measurements, and cut a tapered piece to act as the alignment wedge. That's easy! Recommend if no one here can give the dimensions, we just ask around the Shearwater Club, to borrow one. Worst case, Maritime Hobbies did have them last time I was in, I should get one anyhow, probably a great tool for yourself as well for all the scratchbuilding projects.

[michaely]

Dennis,

I think the "alignment jig" serves two purposes:

- provides the second leg, along with the spar, to stabilize the wing panels as they are being constructed.

- more critically, provides the correct amount of wingtip 'washout' to lessen the possibility abrupt stalls..... google something like 'washout in rc model airplane wings" to get information such as this
http://www.mnbigbirds.com/images/PDF...%204_21_12.pdf

If I have my head screwed on correctly to build washout (and not fatal wingtip negative washout - wash-in?) illustrations 2 and 4 mean that you build the wing panels UPSIDE DOWN, so that the smaller height of the alignment jig at the wing tip 'raises the trailing edge above the leading edge', when the wing panel, top side on top, and viewed from the side.

Model incidence meters.... I see that at least one brand has moved from the analog technology of bubble levels to digital technology which gives a further feature of being able to "zero" the meter reading if our model is on table that is not aligned with the geographical horizon.

Dave, since you are into full scale construction and probably use table saws, bandsaws, etc., take a look a Beall "TiltBox" - which I have found in a decade of use to be valuable in many woodworking situations - and easy enough to cobble together other parts of a model incidence meter - for use with model airplanes.
It's available from Lee Valley Tools, which is offering free shipping 'til February 23....
http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...50&cat=1,43513


good luck,

[mrrandyman]

As stated above. It simply allows you to stabalize the ribs during assembly.
The old kits did not have the tabs in the rear of the ribs that showed up later do to simplicity in tooling.

Pin your root and tip ribs in place using a square at the front and take a measurement from the trailing edge of both those ribs at the base to the building board. That will give you the taper for the piece you need.

Randy

If you were building a large scale aircraft then perhaps washout would come into play.

[Terry Gauvin]

In pics 2 and 4 the wing is in fact right side up. Look again. The taper in the jig simply reflects the taper in the wing. The easiest thing to do is draw a center line through the ribs. Set the root rib level to the bench and make certain the tip is level at worst, 1 or 2 degrees of washout (rib slightly higher a trailing edge)is beneficial. With the root and tip set you can take care of the rest quite easily. Make sure both panels are the same.

[timberman]

Yes Terry you are correct , pic 2and 4 are right side up , you can see the cutouts for the fixed landing gear wire blocks in ribs w2,w3,w4 near the leading edge.