[Dzlstunter]

A caveat: I was only addressing the compatability issue in the previous post. I have not yet determined the durability of this method by exposure to different fuels, weather, etc. I have been told, though have not independently verified, that the water-based urethane does not yellow as the solvent-based does. Since you are building a gasser, you shouldn't have problems even if you don't topcoat (according to RV in MAN). My stunt plane certainly has an open framework--it is an I-beam wing! The open areas are covered with polyspan, not koverall, but it is a heat-shrinkable polyester, too. Not being an "expert" painter, I used an airbush to apply a "camo" paint scheme and used decals for decking out the project. I found that the covering can be shrunk even after the finish has been applied IF YOU ARE VERY CAREFUL not to "bubble" the paint--and even some of that will go back to normal. (At least I think it did!!!!!!!!!) It would be worth your while to make up a square or triangle of scrap balsa sticks and cover them to try different approaches. I know this takes a little extra time, but it's better than wasting a whole plane. I discarded a different method by doing this before I went to the one I ended up with. I never regreted the "lost" time! Good luck, Dzl

[supercub Man]

In my previous life (before retirement!) I did a lot of furniture wood working and it is true. Water-based Poly does not yellow. I found that I could sometimes get a more luxurious looking finish on a wood table by using the yellowing effect of oil-based poly on top of the selected stain. At other times when trying to match a particular shade I would have to use water-based poly to retain the same shade as I had stained. I am glad to hear that you used this on open structure. However, as you suggested, I will try a test on a scrap framework. I have a partial fuselage skeleton of a 1/4 cub that lost a wing one day and I will use areas of that to experiment with. When I used dope for painting, I would mask off the trim areas with tape and then lightly spray the edges of the tape with thinned clear dope to seal them. Then I'd spray the colour and when I peeled the tape the resulting edges were sharp as a knife! I'd like to find something like that to use with Latex! - or is it necessary, as Latex is much thicker than normal?
Out of frustration and before finding this forum, I painted my 1/4 scale Supercub with CTC quick-dry "Tremclad" spray cans!! That is the plane shown as my avitar. It has been OK so far but the paint is easy to chip. I had already filled the cloth with nitrate then butyrate dope and the tremclad stuck to it very well. But it is real runny stuff as the cans are designed with a heavy spray nozzle and it is hard to get on light coats. I had a lot of bleed under the tape and spent days scraping it off with a small knife. Looks great at 4ft.!
Thanks for your suggestions!

[Dzlstunter]

Tommy Meisel suggested that I use the either the clear spray over tape edges or, as he prefers, use the color that you are going to be painting over (the existing base color) around the edges of the tape. That way, he said, any bleeding is of the base color onto the base color. It sounded like a good idea, but I didn't try either one of these.

[supercub Man]

Using the base colour is a stroke of genius! How simple! I don't know why after all these years I never thought of that. Thin it down and give it just a light spray along the edges. If the trim area is small, fill the whole area and if large give it a good wide band and you'll never see the slight rise in level created by the thin extra coat. Sounds great - I'll do it!!

Thanks Dzlstunter!

[Dzlstunter]

Well..., as much as I would like to take credit, Tommy Meisel came up with this as a suggestion when I started on my quest for an all-water-based finishing system--so he gets the credit. Let us know how the tests work out. I may be interested in the Koverall material for my next project which an RC Aeronca Champ. I will be using thinned out Titebond II glue or the clear urethane to apply the material (instead of dope). I used the Titebond on the polyspan; no problems so far. Good luck, Dzl

[supercub Man]

Thanks Dzlstunter - I believe that by applying the thinned Titebond II to the wood first and letting it dry, that you can then apply the Koverall with an iron just as if it were an "iron-on" fabric. I shall try that and see. Will let you know how the experiment works. Give me a week. Ciao!

[Dzlstunter]

I have seen the heat method suggested, too. I used the "wet" method on the polyspan. I simply substituted thinned Titebond II (about skimmed milk consistancy--Titebond is HEAVY) for dope and painted it on followed by the covering and painting over the top of the edges until I got it to stick. I rubbed it in with my fingers as I went, just as I used to do with dope. After it dried, I had to go over it again in a few spots where it didn't take. I would be very interested to see if the heating method works with the Koverall. I have a hunch the urethane instead of dope method may work better. We'll stay tuned! Good luck, Dzl

[supercub Man]

In the past I too have used dope and the fingers method. I have also used Sig Stix-it but found that after I applied and shrunk the cloth and then started to dope it that the dope softened the Stix-It and the cloth being under tension, popped loose. It happened on the side of a 1/4 scale fuse and since it was already shrunk I didn't have enough cloth left to re-attach it. So I had to replace the whole side! After that I ran Thin CA along the seams. That worked but was harder to sand. Bummer! But I will let you know. I will just post to this thread and send you a PM as well if you've recorded your E-Mail address in your profile.
Just watched my taping of ALIAS and hittting the sack now. Talk to you when I'm done.

[JimMcIntyre]

Great posts, not sure how I missed this, very informative. I'm considering using the "Latex method" on my next plane, now I think I'll try more test scraps first.

As for film, I've had many people recommend OzCover... as a paintable film... any experience ,with this?

[supercub Man]

Hi Jim - Never heard of OzCover! Soundsinteresting. I think rib stitching would still be difficult. But then as I said, I'm more of a cloth guy. Have decided on the cloth over film for my 26% Skybolt for strength and for finish options. I opened the thread with the title "Cloth or Film?? and I now have my answer - I think!! Time to experiment!!